IDEAL ICOS M3080 FLAME ERROR

[grib]

Hi I've got a problem with my icos boiler. It shows a F L messsage which means it has a flame error. Initially when I tried to start it it lt and ran for about a minute with a flame established then seemed to shut down and attempt to restart a couple of times. The restart failed and on subsequent restarts it failed to even ignite. Looking it the book it suggested the flame sensor could be a problem so I bought one (took four days to arrive so boiler was off during that period) and replaced it and also the ignition electrode for good measure. The boiler fired up and carried on normally so I thought I'd cracked it.

24 hours later I had a very cold shower and checking the boiler discovered the FL symbol again. I reset it and it fired up (flame was esablished)... ran for about a minute, slowed down again then re-lit and continued to go for the rest of the evening. Now this morning it won't start at all.

One further peice of info that may or may not help is the CO2 reading when the boiler was running at the flue was about 9.5 % with a temp of about 60 degrees.

How does he know this you ask.... well I'm actually an Oil Fired boiler service engineer so have a Testo Gas Anayliser... but have only ever worked on oil so have no idea abot Gas boilers. Is this a normal CO2 reading for Gas (it would be too low on oil which usually produces about 12%)... sorry can'y give a CO reading as my tester is designed for oil so doesn't measure CO.

I'm not a corgi engineer so I'm not going to touch anything on the GAS side of things but I feel I'm competant enough to plug in an electrode or two in my own house .....anybody got any ideas where to look next or should I gve up now and contact Ideal and cough up the £200 call out charge?

 

[gas4you]

CO2 reading of around 8 - 9.5% is ok.

These are notorious for pcb problems, but as they are so expensive best not to that route straight away.

Gas valve could be suspect, had a few of these go.

Have you checked/replaced the flame detection lead?

The fault finding on these is rather mis leading as L F could be anything that cause the flame to go out.

 

[grib]

Thanks for the reply.....Yeah the flame detector was the first thing I tried and it seemed to work OK for a while but then started playing up again. I think you're right about the gas valve. I've got a really good spark but there is no gas going through now. The voltage to the gas valve goes to 222V DC at about the same time the spark comes on (says it should be 200V in the book but guess thats OK) so the PCB seems to be sending the juice but the valves not opening.

I'm going to order one in the morning.... are they factory set as it looks really easy to swap over or will it need some sort of adjustment once fitted , in which case I'll have to get a Corgi man round.....

 

[corgigazza]

listen to the ignition cycle if u cant hear the spark crackling it can be the main pcb,
the condense traps also blocks up due to poor design and cause L F remove two holding screws and clean the sump on trap (this is more like your fault as the condense drains away over the days not working then work until the trap over fills
gazza

the gas valve is a suction one u can hear the main soleniod open and check the resistance across the coils

 

[grib]

The sparks really good (I took it out earthed it and watched to see the spark) and I have already cleared the S trap as I saw that on another post.

There seems to be no gas smell at all so I'm thinking the gas valve diagnosis I was given is the most likely at the moment.

 

[ollski]

the condense traps also blocks up due to poor design and cause L F remove two holding screws and clean the sump on trap (this is more like your fault as the condense drains away over the days not working then work until the trap over fills
gazza

Agreed 9 times out of 10.

 

[grib]

Just noticed the last line on you post about the valve

Gas valve seems the most likely as I said above I've got 222V DC to the plug but I definately didn't hear a soloniod opening... (thats a sound I'm used to listening for on my oil boilers)

Cheers

 

[gas4you]

Try pulling the white tube off the gas valve, non gas carrying part, and see if there is any water in it. If so drain it out and refit and try again.

 

[grib]

thanks Dave.... I have a small blue pipe which I took off and blew through... but still the same, cheers anyway.

 

[grib]

I've ordered a new gas valve today.. when it comes, (presuming it works of course,) if I still get the same 9.5 CO2 at the flue can I assume it's all OK or should I still have it checked by A Corgi man.

 

[gas4you]

There is no adjustment on these gas valves.

 

[oakland99]

if your not corgi you shouldn't fit a gas valve, seems pointless getting it checked after you have done something you shouldn't do in the first place.


john

 

[grib]

Yes John I know... and I should'nt fit new electrical circuits in my own house either... and pretty soon I'll need my someone with a certificate to wipe my backside for me if I haven't taken the exam.

I fully agree with the Corgi thing in the market place but there are TWO fittings on the valve... it's not rocket science... I am not an accountant or a shop keeper or a fisherman...I am an engineer with many years experience and I'm more than happy with my capabilities. I wouldn't do it to someone else's boiler but I will do it in my own home.

Thanks to the poster above and all the other posters who gave me the info I needed with out the Big Brother lecture.

 

[oakland99]

i suppose you have a sharp knife and a needle and thread in the house doesn't mean you can perform a heart by pass on family does it....




john

 

[nickso]

i suppose you have a sharp knife and a needle and thread in the house doesn't mean you can perform a heart by pass on family does it....clown




john

give it a rest...changing a gas valve for a man of his probable capabilities is hardly brain surgery