IDEAL ICOS M3080 FLAME ERROR

[oakland99]

anyones capabilities are not the point, if your not qualified then you should not do it, im well aware he is an extremely good engineer, but gas safety regulations are there for a reason, plenty of people have good capabilities does not mean they can work on gas appliances

 

[nickso]

as its in his own home i dont think our opinions are really going to count for much.

he is probably competent enough to carry it out, but i dont really care if he does or not.

 

[grib]

i suppose you have a sharp knife and a needle and thread in the house doesn't mean you can perform a heart by pass on family does it....




john

Your analogy really doesn't work does it !!!

I said I was an Engineer (there's a clue there) .... therefore I am well versed in the use of a spanner. I've actually used many different spanners in my life, metric, imperial all different sizes ...oh yeah don't forget the adjustables and the stilsons... I've even had a couple of goes on the mole grips and pump pliers....impressive I know !!!!!!!

I've also built a house so I'm pretty good at many trades (Good enough for building control anyway ), I wired it, (something I couldn't do now without a certificate) I plumbed it , I did all the carpentry blah blah blah.... I left the brickwork and plastering to experts as I know my limitations........

So back to your ill prepared analogy.......I'm not a surgeon.. I'm not even a doctor so surgery is not something I would attempt, that would be really stupid !!! ......as I said I know my limitations which incedentally is why I asked if it would need setting up by a pro, which apparently it won't....

So just becuase you have a computer and a keyboard in your house doesn't mean you can come up with a decent analogy does it !!!!

Shall we just agree to disagree and leave it there.

 

[oakland99]

ok

 

[gas4you]

I could mention several on here, but I won't, that I would like to perform elective surgey on, even though I'm only a gas engineer

 

[the.ideal.man]

listen to the ignition cycle if u cant hear the spark crackling it can be the main pcb,
the condense traps also blocks up due to poor design and cause L F remove two holding screws and clean the sump on trap (this is more like your fault as the condense drains away over the days not working then work until the trap over fills
gazza

the gas valve is a suction one u can hear the main soleniod open and check the resistance across the coils

not far off there mate, could be a slow draining trap, due to lack of correct servicing or possibly the pcb, i wouldnt expext the pcb to fail on flame detection, if there is no spark from the board then defo pcb. part number 172490. i would definately remove the trap and clean out then check, if problems persist then replace pcb 172490.

 

[Agile]

Firstly, although I have quite strict views on limitations of people working on gas, even I am quite happy for this fellow to work on his own boiler as he is entitled to do if he is competent. Being OFTEC he will understand the safety implications.

One point not really mentioned yet. Have you cleaned out the base of the HE behind the two wide rectangular plates? They might be completely full of the white stuff!

Do you have a mechanical stethoscope to listen to the solenoid with?

The gas valve is the last thing I would be suspecting! I assume the flame detection electrode passes a visual?

Tony

 

[the.ideal.man]

Firstly, although I have quite strict views on limitations of people working on gas, even I am quite happy for this fellow to work on his own boiler as he is entitled to do if he is competent. Being OFTEC he will understand the safety implications.

One point not really mentioned yet. Have you cleaned out the base of the HE behind the two wide rectangular plates? They might be completely full of the white stuff!

Do you have a mechanical stethoscope to listen to the solenoid with?

The gas valve is the last thing I would be suspecting! I assume the flame detection electrode passes a visual?

Tony

i believe thats what i said, check the trap, or sump etc.. lack of servicing can cause this to build up and block the trap. its doubtful to be the gas valve, if the boiler ignites then shuts off on LF. then its the probe or lead as its lost detection while burning, if its jus LF not LF. then its lack of spark or gas to ignite therefore pcb or valve, condensate blockage, with condensate blockages you can usually hear a bubbling inside the heat exchanger, like an air lock.

 

[grib]

Thanks for the tips guys but I have tried all those things already...

1.The trap is clean and clear as is the base of the burner and the hole through to the trap.
2. The ignition spark is fine, I've changed it just for the sake of elimination and before putting the new one in (so the old one was still in the hole making it gas tight) I ran it and actually watched the spark so I know no problems there.
3. The detection probe was the first thing I changed as that seemed the most likely to me, especially as the boiler lit and burned for a short time.... However now it won't light at all, there is definitely no smell of gas after a failed ignition and there is no clicking sound from the solenoid on the gas valve. There is a 222V DC voltage at the connector block so the pcb is doing it's job. So I'm guessing the valve is the problem.

It's quite common for the solenoids on oil boilers to break down. They will often work when they are cold for a couple of minutes before cutting out so I'm hoping that's what was happening here. I've got a valve coming tomorrow so I'll know for sure then but thanks again for the tips.

 

[Agile]

Its always possible you have a flame detection problem AND a gas valve problem.

The only think that I hesitate with is that it did light up for a short time. Usually a gas valve will stay on once it comes on at all.

See what the replacement gas valve does.

Tony

 

[dmitch071]

Have had this before and the flue sealing ring in the flue turret was not installled correctly. Have you checked basics this boiler needs a min gas inlet pressure of 18 mbars. Also have you checked the overheat stat for continuity this can take out the gas valve. If this is all ok and visual examination of heat ex is ok then I would go with the PCB. You can test the gas valve by connecting a u gauge to the inlet pressure point of valve set the boiler to run through ignition you should see a slight fall then rise demonstrating the valve has opened.

Dave

 

[daden]

this sounds like a bit of water has dripped from aav run down to user control housing it only works on micro volts also change purple lead this will lead to blr firing up cutting off straight away its a hard one to work out but the parts should only cost £20 worht a go b4 pcb ive done lots of ideal isars 9 times out of 10 though its the pcb but this sounds like control houseing and purple leads good luck by the way isar are cr**

 

[grib]

I think I've cracked it.... The new gas valve seems to have done the trick. The boiler fired up stright away and has been running now (on and off) for abount 3 hours

Thanks for all the help guys