Ideal Response 120 - Hard to work on.

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Alright guys,

Just back from servciing an Ideal response 120 and got caught out with not having teh right tool for the job.

Hadnt the right length screw driver to get into undo the 3 screws for the burner unit and ended up wasting a lot of time getting it sorted.

Anyone reccommend a particular screw driver for teh particular task.

Are these boilers hard to work on or reletively straight forward. First one i have done and as usual i was finding my feet!!!!


Grill
 
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I normally use a small adjustable spanner to undo them.... Otherwise a no.2 posie drive comes in handy :LOL:

As for the boilers - Keep an eye out for leaking heat exchangers and low water pressure switches.
 
Yeah i eventually got them out with an adjustable spanner but it must have been the first time the were ever out because tehy were a nightmare. AND i nearly snapped of leads going into the burner unit into teh bargain. Beads of sweat were forming!!!!

G
 
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8mm spanner gets them off doesnt it? think thats what i use.
 
small socket set, makita do a good one available from HRPC. Lots of different sockets/bits/ratchets/drivers.

Got to know the Ideal Response very well. PCB's are usual problem as well as leaking H/E, corroded igniton/rec electrodes and spark generator.

Dont even attempt to replace the H/E, just replace the boiler.
 
I have just had the guy back on teh phonr there and he is saying that his hot water id staying hot for about 30 secs and then cutting off. Nightmare.

The only leads i took off where off the thermostat directly below teh burner unit and teh ignition leads. Is there anything obvious i should be looking at here when i go back round tommorrow??

G
 
suspect the thermistor but with such a vague description it's hard to tell sorry.

The thermistor is the plug under the h/e behind the fan if memory serves.

Out of interest, is this boiler fitted in a flat by any chance?
 
nickso said:
8mm spanner gets them off doesnt it? think thats what i use.
Yep nice little ring and open ended 8mm never let me down even with the Minimiser.

Stan
 
grill said:
I have just had the guy back on teh phonr there and he is saying that his hot water id staying hot for about 30 secs and then cutting off. Nightmare.

The only leads i took off where off the thermostat directly below teh burner unit and teh ignition leads. Is there anything obvious i should be looking at here when i go back round tommorrow??

G
Check the spark gap as the probes have a nasty habit of warping.
Far more improtant is make sure it has the flue saftey stat fiited :!: :!: If it hasnt then tell the customer to ring Ideal pronto. They should come and fit it free of charge as its a saftey issue.

Stan
 
Hi there,

Just checked the manual and the i removed where from the DHW over heat stat. This seems like the likely culprit. Im certain i put the wires back on properly. Could i have damaged it in remving teh wires?? Will check it on the meter tommorrow.

But then again if this is damaged you would have no hot water??

G
 
These fit everything. Yes that's a reversible ratchet, and the screwdriver bit goes almost right through it. Good for that screw on an Ideal Classic fan.
p4750922_x.jpg
 
Sounds like this bloke is not being entirely truthfull. If you only did what you say then there is no reason why his boiler should behave any differently than before you touched it.
Just remember that these boilers require alot of water flow to activate the DHW flow switch and have a cr*p response time in regards to DHW demand. My guess would be his boiler has always behaved this way but thought it would be much better after he shelled out a few bucks on your visit. Ask him a few questions before blaming yourself.
 
They only need about 2.5 li/min like most boilers.

Unfortunately because of the purge cycle they take at least 12 seconds before firing up on DHW demand and many more seconds to warm up the heavy composite heat exchanger.

Tony
 

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