inline fan in bathroom

Joined
13 May 2014
Messages
140
Reaction score
4
Location
Sussex
Country
United Kingdom
I recently fitted an in-line fan in our bathroom (14 cubic metres), ceiling vent. Its a 100mm fan Airflow Aventa AV100T ( removes 180 cubic metres/hour) located above the shower vented to an exterior wall. Unfortunately it doesn't do a very good job of keeping up with the condensation produced which though not excessive it needs improvement. Bathroom door is always kept ajar and small bathroom window is always kept opened during showers.

If I hold a piece of toilet tissue up to it real close it will hold but the airflow just isn't strong enough to pull up the moist air before it circulates and condenses on surfaces.

I was thinking of fitting a second inline fan of the same type in series with the current one.

OR

Upgrading to a more powerful fan (125mm, 350 cubic metres/hr). This would require enlarging the ceiling vent to 125mm and running the larger ducting to the existing vent in the exterior wall using a reducer.

Any thoughts on this please. I'm keen on the first approach as its a lot less work for me :)
 
Sponsored Links
How long is the pipe run from the shower vent to the extractor and the extractor to the outside vent? Longer runs reduce effectiveness.

pj
 
Okay from ceiling vent to fan its 1.5M and from fan to outlet 2.5M using PVC Flexible Ducting.
 
As will multiple bends/elbows in the duct.

Bath/Shower room ceiling mounted fan, volume of 27 cubic metres.
I would be looking to extract nearer 500 cubic l/hr not 180.
 
Sponsored Links
As will multiple bends/elbows in the duct.

Bath/Shower room ceiling mounted fan, volume of 27 cubic metres.
I would be looking to extract nearer 500 cubic l/hr not 180.

Apologies have edited my original posting having checked measurements this morning. Would it be sufficient to use 2 in-line vents in series using original ducting to increase cubic l/hr? I'm not a ventilation person and therefore not sure of the maths behind this.
 
Ok. I've got one of these same fans and spent quite a bit of time researching a solution for bathroom ventilation and planning for it to be installed in the bathroom. Oh and then installing it...

The following is worth bearing in mind.

i) The fan has a selectable hi and lo speed operation. This is configurable in the static wiring at the connection to the fan. If you are running at normal speed - you could try hi speed?

ii) You are using ribbed flexible ducting - this has more resistance than rigid PVC ducting, which I used and then lagged with airpocket foil insulation.

iii) Air source. You are correct you need a source for replenishment of air.

However, by using two sources you are potentially bridging the airflow circuit. For example, in my bathroom I also have a window but do not open it for use with the fan. This is because the location of the air inlet is close to the window, so therefore using the window as a source offers an airlflow route in the room and straight up and out the vent.

This does not offer the most effective route for picking up humid air. You need to try to get movement across the room. E.g. door one side and vent on other.

You need to use ONE air source or the other. You may find more success closing the window depending on your room layout.

vi) Timer - you need to run the fan for 15 minutes after vacating. Are you using the timer facility?

v) I believe you can also use a couple of Y adapters and use a second fan in parallel for double flow. I think this would be a better alternative to using another in series which doubles pressure. However, it also depends on the max flow rate capability of the flexible 100mm PVC you are running, which may have an effective upper limit flow rate. It may also become unacceptably noisy.

I use the same fan in a bathroom which had no ventilation before (apart from opening a window).

When we moved in, clearly the condensation had been a problem for many years and successive layers of paint applied over mold and delaminated surfaces, was used to hide / repair the problem.

Since using the fan with a 15 min overrun, the room is clear of mold and new ceiling paint holding up well. i did use a soft sheen rather than matt to give a little more resistance to moisture.

The fan pressure is not huge - as you say it will hold a piece of paper but is no where near as strong as the kitchen extractor but I don't think it needs to be. I think you have to be realistic that if you have a power shower with lots of misting at say 40C, you are going to get some steaming. The fan needs to clear it in a reasonable time after finishing so it does not spread through the house and remain in the bathroom causing damage.

In our case, it just about keeps the window and mirror clear (our shower is low pressure rose and temp about 38C) but there is still a hint of condensation on some spots of ceiling after the shower.

However, after the completion of the overun the room feels and smells damp free and most of the spots have dried on their own due to the airflow.

You could try 125mm and it will offer a lot more flow. More than the 25mm would suggest. However, from reading a lot on the subject including these forums 100mm seems to be in widespread use for bathroom and is considered acceptable.

I would also take the flow rate specs of all fans I've ever encountered with a grain of salt - I don't think they ever are close to the presented specs once installed.

Hope some of the comments above helps.

Edits: Typos
 
Thanks for replying.

i) Yup, isolator in cupboard and a 2-gang switch for hallway controlling on/off and speed (always on high now).

ii) Was actually thinking of changing to rigid & insulated ducting.

iii) Will try just having one source of inflow to see if this helps

iv) timer is running for 12 mins and plan to extend this to max


Actually spotted this on ebay here. This seems like it might be ideal power wise.

I know for any fan its going to be difficult to remove all steam before it spreads but all I'm trying to do at this stage is make the best of the current situation. Knowing I've got an underpowered fan makes me want to go for a 125/150mm solution moving at least 300 cubic metres/hr.

Going for the option mentioned above seems as economical as fitting another fan in series or parallel.

Thanks again
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
Axial fans, such as that one on eBay, are not the best for use as an in-line extractor fan if fair lengths of ducting are involved.

Go for a centrifugal type which can handle longer lengths of ducting.
 
Sure, no problems.

Based on your response - I would try the adjustments to existing first, as keeping the window closed and extending timer run on are easy fixes to try.

If you then think it is getting close to acceptable - then you could justify running 100mm rigid duct. You want to be confident though, as you would want to run larger, if moving to a larger fan.

And It is a bit more fiddly and time consuming to install than flexi (obviously). You need junctions and elbows, need a good tenon saw and you need to plan out the run a bit more. Need some sealing tape for joints as well. And insulation if condensation is likely to be a problem - probably if it's working!

I also installed a condensation trap and piped it outside.

I was also dealing with lath and plaster ceiling and a tile vent install. Complete job took longer than I'd care to acknowledge on here but it was worthwhile as I haven't touched it since.

My bathroom is similarly sized, the duct run not disimilar and i use the fan on lo speed with adequate results.

If you don't think the 100mm is close, after implementing easy suggestions - I would just go for a conventional 125mm inline airlfow or manrose or other. You'll probably need a timer module separately. Edit: depending on brand. If it was me I would use rigid ducting for the 125mm, if at all possible.

The fan you linked to may be ok but I like a housing / fan body that can be decoupled and a warranty and ideally some feedback from use in the field. Decoupling fan body from housing is especially useful with rigid ducting as allows servicing / cleaning impeller etc. without destroying your connected pipe runs.

Just my thoughts.
 
Okay actually just came across this fan Aventa Fan AV150T which I thought would be a lot more expensive but having googled its seems the best option and is at a good price at various places.

With the condensation trap you mentioned I wonder if this is necessary if the fan is allowed to over-run for a good 30mins afterwards as this should dry out the ducting I would have thought. The external grill is shuttered.

Many thanks :)
 
Wow - 6" grill and ductwork is getting very big for a bathroom. Big, holes in ceiling and a big hole in wall for exhaust?

I couldn't even justify that on the kitchen hood and reduced to 125mm.

I think 6" will be excessive, 5" possibly excessive, but that's based on my experience of 100MM working adequately.

edit: remember too that lots more air flow means lots more heat escape in winter so oversizing is also not a great outcome.

I will stop replying now and leave for other's opinions.
 
Well I was actually going to use a reducer down to 100mm for the exterior wall outlet and use 150mm for the ceiling inlet (light fitted). Probably stick with flexible insulated 150mm ducting for convenience sake.
 
Bit late reply, but...

I recently fitted a Vent-Axia ACM100 to my downstairs loo.

Even on the lowest setting it's like sitting in a hurricane. If you put a piece of toilet paper up against the grille it would get sucked through, ripped up and spat out onto the patio!

It was an expensive fan, but it's got some serious suction. Way too powerful for my little toilet but might be just right for you.
 
I haven't read all the thread but -
the airflow just isn't strong enough to pull up the moist air before it circulates and condenses on surfaces.
Is that possible? Also, so what?
I presume that it was simply being said that if one doesn't suck the moist air out of the room quickly enough (replacing it with dry(er) air sucked in), some of the moisture from the moist atr will inevitably condense on surfaces in the room, causing 'damp and mould'. ... so, the faster one sucks out the moist air, the less will/should that happen.

Kind Regards, John
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top