Insulating Steel Box section over Bifolds

Someone may correct me but I was told tile backer board can be used between the steel and plasterboard to prevent cold bridging?
 
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I suppose that would be possible if the board was the same thickness as the plaster or plasterboard used on the rest, in which case it wouldn't be thick enough to insulate much.

I'd worry about hairline cracks where it meets whatever is used for the rest of the wall, even with scrim tape and the best plasterer in the world.

I don't think you'd ever get back even the cost of the tile board in reduced heating costs. It's just not worth worrying about.
 
I don't think it was recommended for insulation, just to stop and cold/damp coming through the bottom of the steel and messing up the plaster/paint.

The tile backer was to sit between the steel and the plasterboard. It was only a small part of a lintel that would have touched the plasterboard.
 
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I don't think you'd ever get back even the cost of the tile board in reduced heating costs. It's just not worth worrying about.
The main and immediate issue here is condensation (cold bridging), rather than heat loss etc.

As I have stated earlier, the simplest remedy is to to use insulated plasterboard, if you have the space or foam fix plasterboard, if not.
 
It's exactly how any wide opening anywhere is built. There's nothing special about it, so don't see the need for special attention.

If it was likely to result in condensation then I'm sure everyone else would address it, but there's a pane of glass directly below that will be much colder so will do a very good job of removing moisture from the air as condensation long before the dew point for the much warmer plaster surface over the beam is ever reached.

It will all be fine!
 
The tile backer was to sit between the steel and the plasterboard. It was only a small part of a lintel that would have touched the plasterboard.

The joist itself is 100mm wide so would be flush with the surrounding block on its face.

You could add something underneath though, but then you'd have to be careful not to end up lower than the face of the door frame. The door needs to reach the top of the brick opening outside, so you have little space to play with.
 
It's exactly how any wide opening anywhere is built. There's nothing special about it, so don't see the need for special attention.
Not necessarily no. Some are built using thermally broken insulated proprietary lintels, others are built using two pieces of steel (inner and outer leaf).

Were talking about steel, in direct contact with the outside. The nuisance of localised condensation appearing as damp patches or mould or peeling wallpaper, is very real.
 
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I agree, I think we're heading towards insulating its underside and not its face?

There's something of a thermal semi-break between the plate and box sections with the hit and miss welding, plus its general thermal mass that's mostly within the room.

It would be done after fitting the doors anyway, perhaps use PIR or tileboard of a thickness selected according to the height of the door frame top?
 
Is 3.15m unusually long? I guess that's the reason for it.

In which case the thermal loss from the glass will be huge anyway, so any heating loss isn't worth worrying about. The room pretty much doesn't have a wall!
 

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