Intergas 24/18 2010 installation - loud noise ...

Chocca until the 10th though - assuming that Gas service isn't laid.

Need to make up that flushing rig too.


Decsales on these can run anything from £250 - £350+VAT depending on how bad they are.


Wise to double check its needed first though.

Now if this was a modern boiler design with a plate heat exchanger it would be less likely to scale and it would be a quick and simple job to swap the plate.
 
Sponsored Links
If the installation was left commissioned correctly it would never be an issue. . Your post is, as always, pointless.


How much is a new diverter and plate for, as an example, an 837?

Will post up some charts that help explain the diagnosis in a while.
 
Boiler in good condition :



Heavily scaled:



When S1 reaches between 120 & 125, it modulates down, or moves to status 1. Limescale prevents the efficient heat transfer to hot water.


Twice in ten years, I have seen a poor HEX casting give the same effect, making descaling was ineffective. That was a pig to diagnose.


OP - Beware of Google Warriors who pretend to comprehend boiler functions.
 
Dan- trying to figure out what I'll be sorted first, the gas service or the ideal mini???????
 
Sponsored Links
Boiler in good condition :



Heavily scaled:



When S1 reaches between 120 & 125, it modulates down, or moves to status 1. Limescale prevents the efficient heat transfer to hot water.


Twice in ten years, I have seen a poor HEX casting give the same effect, making descaling was ineffective. That was a pig to diagnose.


OP - Beware of Google Warriors who pretend to comprehend boiler functions.

Thanks Dan!
I really hope it will not be limescale build up...
Perhaps fine tuning of the settings?

P.S. From day 1 the boiler wasn't giving enough hot water and the guy installing it said that this is due to very cold water coming to flat. When I open the tap full I will be hot at start and then lukewarm so to fill the bath I always turn the tap down so it manages to heat up the needed water. The water pressure is very good here and indeed the cold water is very cold... - even in summer.
 
Thanks Dan!
I really hope it will not be limescale build up...
Perhaps fine tuning of the settings?

P.S. From day 1 the boiler wasn't giving enough hot water and the guy installing it said that this is due to very cold water coming to flat. When I open the tap full I will be hot at start and then lukewarm so to fill the bath I always turn the tap down so it manages to heat up the needed water. The water pressure is very good here and indeed the cold water is very cold... - even in summer.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/i...lation-loud-noise.424552/page-3#ixzz3PkrNxzzI

The installer is correct in what he says, but there are a few reasons why the water might not be hot enough, not just the very cold water excuse.
 
The installer is correct in what he says, but there are a few reasons why the water might not be hot enough, not just the very cold water excuse.

Can this be sorted though or if it's too cold there is nothing that can be done?
 
Boiler in good condition :



Heavily scaled:



When S1 reaches between 120 & 125, it modulates down, or moves to status 1. Limescale prevents the efficient heat transfer to hot water.


Twice in ten years, I have seen a poor HEX casting give the same effect, making descaling was ineffective. That was a pig to diagnose.


OP - Beware of Google Warriors who pretend to comprehend boiler functions.

Thanks Dan!
I really hope it will not be limescale build up...
Perhaps fine tuning of the settings?

P.S. From day 1 the boiler wasn't giving enough hot water and the guy installing it said that this is due to very cold water coming to flat. When I open the tap full I will be hot at start and then lukewarm so to fill the bath I always turn the tap down so it manages to heat up the needed water. The water pressure is very good here and indeed the cold water is very cold... - even in summer.
 
If it was a problem from day one, then I would suggest undersized gas pipe and the need to fit a flow restrictor on the cold supply. . Although status 1 in hot water water mode is a concern.


Lee, christ knows. . No word today, although it was down to be done.

Back there to retro fit some floor sensors to some ufh on another job so will find out. . Told the controls muppet to be providing 230vAC switching too :mrgreen:

That break tank is still leaking through the bolts as well.

Ideal's gas valve never arrived either :evil:



OP, we are looking for a set temperature rise in the water at a given flow rate.
 
P.S. From day 1 the boiler wasn't giving enough hot water and the guy installing it said that this is due to very cold water coming to flat. When I open the tap full I will be hot at start and then lukewarm so to fill the bath I always turn the tap down so it manages to heat up the needed water. The water pressure is very good here and indeed the cold water is very cold... - even in summer.

Sounds to me like the boiler is operating normally for the type of boiler it is. In winter the heat exchanger will heat up to the central heating flow temperature. When you open the tap the water will be very hot at first from the heating temperature and then drop down to lukewarm.

This is why other manufacturers use a plate heat exchanger as it gives more stable hot water output.
 
Utter rubbish.

Ffs, if you can't post accurate information, can you kindly flock off back to the general forum?


The boiler is perfectly capable of producing stable temperatures. . Would you like some more graphs.

Idiot.
 
Sounds to me like the boiler is operating normally for the type of boiler it is. In winter the heat exchanger will heat up to the central heating flow temperature. When you open the tap the water will be very hot at first from the heating temperature and then drop down to lukewarm.

This is why other manufacturers use a plate heat exchanger as it gives more stable hot water output.

It does not work like that from what I understand - It switches off CH and runs DHW so should not be dependent on CH...
 
Lee, christ knows. . No word today, although it was down to be done.

Back there to retro fit some floor sensors to some ufh on another job so will find out. . Told the controls muppet to be providing 230vAC switching too :mrgreen:

That break tank is still leaking through the bolts as well

From which holes pal, the front couple of some round the side near the panel????

Will get some tank lacing from a firm that does our tanks.

That one you've got is badly made, I fact its bloody awful.
 
Heavily scaled:



When S1 reaches between 120 & 125, it modulates down, or moves to status 1. Limescale prevents the efficient heat transfer to hot water.

After having good look at this chart it does look a bit like that. I have recorded video (not sure I can post it here) which shows that it goes from 6 to 3 to 1 and then back 3, 4 and 6..
It completes that cycle within roughly 2:30 - 3:00 minutes. Stays for a minute or so in 6 and then does that same cycle again....
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top