You're pulling something that's for sure.
Is it ok to use a drill to take out torx pieces holding driveshaft In ? Pics inc
- Thread starter FruitBowl
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I can't beleive you guys have fallen for this wind up!
We know this is Rightboy91.
Andy
We know this is Rightboy91.
Andy
I've done this loads of times. Tie a bit of rope to it, attach the other end to something solid (like the rear bumper) on your Insignia and give it the beans.
And if a load of black liquid should come out of the gearbox when you pull the shaft out don't worry - I don't know why they put that stuff in there.
And if a load of black liquid should come out of the gearbox when you pull the shaft out don't worry - I don't know why they put that stuff in there.
Fairplay if it is another wind up, very funny and kudos for sticking with it.
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Why do you want to pull it free? (I take that that by "it", you mean that grease-filled, lobed "pot" that the inboard end of the driveshaft fits into)?
Why don't you just put the driveshaft back into it?
This is what that joint looks like, without all the grease in it:
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Does that help? The end that pulled out, will still have the rubber boot on it, and there should be three rollers on three arms poking out at 120 degrees to each other. That's all there is to them! The three rollers run in the three channels machined into the housing that you're trying to remove.
The reason it is good practice to mark them, is because they will wear to the exact shape of the groove that they've been in for the last umpteen thousand miles, so it's good to put them back where they came from, but as it has already popped out, that ship has sailed!
Why do you want to pull it free? (I take that that by "it", you mean that grease-filled, lobed "pot" that the inboard end of the driveshaft fits into)?
Why don't you just put the driveshaft back into it?
This is what that joint looks like, without all the grease in it:
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Does that help? The end that pulled out, will still have the rubber boot on it, and there should be three rollers on three arms poking out at 120 degrees to each other. That's all there is to them! The three rollers run in the three channels machined into the housing that you're trying to remove.
The reason it is good practice to mark them, is because they will wear to the exact shape of the groove that they've been in for the last umpteen thousand miles, so it's good to put them back where they came from, but as it has already popped out, that ship has sailed!
Ith as came apart how can it be put back together ? I have new one now so may as well fit it and be done with it but it hasnt come loose
You just push it back in! Literally just get the driveshaft, offer up the three fingers with the spherical bearings on them, so that they line up with the slots in the housing, slide it in, and put the clamp back on the rubber boot! It is only stopped from coming out, by the clamp round the rubber boot (which is why you were able to pull it out in the first place). Once assembled on the car, they can't come out, because the other end is bolted to the wheel hub. It just sits in there and those three spherical bearings slide in and out of thee housing slightly, as the suspension goes up and down.
That's what I would do anyway, if it were my car! (Keep the new driveshaft as a spare, or see if you can take it back for a refund, less a handling charge).
However, if you're hell-bent on replacing the whole assembly, the problem is that the Autofix manual you have got, is more of a generic thing, rather than vehicle-specific. Your arrangement looks like the top illustration, and in principle, works the same way, but that is NOT an illustration of the exact arrangement on your car. Essentially, it does look like there is a bearing through which the driveshaft passes before it gets to the "pot", and there is some sort of collar to stop the bearing's outer race from sliding out of the housing that it is pressed into. You will therefore have to undo whatever fasteners are holding that retaining collar, and then pull the whole thing out of its housing. The intermediate shaft should then pull out of the gearbox and through the middle of the housing.
However, I can't see from your photos, whether the fasteners are Torx, Ribe, Spline, Allen or what, because they are so covered in oil and muck. I very much doubt that a drill would have the necessary torque to undo them. If it were me, I'd get the appropriate 3/8" drive bit, on the end of a long "wobble bar" extension and use a ratchet.
But seriously, I would urge you NOT to do any of that! For all I know, the bearing will have shims behind it, which, if you disturb them, will be a whole world of pain to get back into their correct positions again.
hi everyone.
I tried and was able to push the driveshaft back together, thanks for that advice but now when I turn the hub by hand it pops out again, I haven't put the jubilee clip on it yet over the boot on driveshaft, but I don't think that will be why it comes out ?
I am trying to put the lower arm back on but the worn carrier hub bushing seems to be stopping it, I will show a pic later.
I have been working on this car for about 3 weeks now, I mistakenly removed the control arm when it fact it was the hub carrier bush that needed replacing not the one on the actual arm, took me about 10 days to line it back up, then the driveshaft came apart and I think the bush on arm has actually worn out now due to all the forcing it about while trying get everything back together,
+ the mot expires in less than 1 week,
I tried and was able to push the driveshaft back together, thanks for that advice but now when I turn the hub by hand it pops out again, I haven't put the jubilee clip on it yet over the boot on driveshaft, but I don't think that will be why it comes out ?
I am trying to put the lower arm back on but the worn carrier hub bushing seems to be stopping it, I will show a pic later.
I have been working on this car for about 3 weeks now, I mistakenly removed the control arm when it fact it was the hub carrier bush that needed replacing not the one on the actual arm, took me about 10 days to line it back up, then the driveshaft came apart and I think the bush on arm has actually worn out now due to all the forcing it about while trying get everything back together,
+ the mot expires in less than 1 week,
OK, well that's progress, of sorts! When it is assembled, the driveshaft will not be able to pop out, because the wheel bearing will hold it. The only way it will be able to pop out, will be if it pushes its outer CV joint through the wheel bearing (which just won't happen). Look at the other side and you'll see what I mean.
Post up a photo of your troublesome bush, and we can have a look. Wishbones can be difficult to get back on. Sometimes, it helps to disconnect the anti roll bar from the other side. Often, the wishbone will go in quite nicely, but only in the "mid laden" position (i.e. the suspension half way up its travel). If you've no hydraulic pressure on the suspension (assuming yours has hydraulic suspension, or has it got a conventional coil spring?), you should be able to do this, and the bolts should line up much better. If you have coil springs, it's very difficult, without compressing the spring.
Post up a photo of your troublesome bush, and we can have a look. Wishbones can be difficult to get back on. Sometimes, it helps to disconnect the anti roll bar from the other side. Often, the wishbone will go in quite nicely, but only in the "mid laden" position (i.e. the suspension half way up its travel). If you've no hydraulic pressure on the suspension (assuming yours has hydraulic suspension, or has it got a conventional coil spring?), you should be able to do this, and the bolts should line up much better. If you have coil springs, it's very difficult, without compressing the spring.
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Got a local bus timetable?
Should of taken it to Kwik Fit or get your dad to give you a hand.
Andy
Andy
Bring the Vectra back into service.
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