Is this a good roofing/lead flashing job?

[^woody^]

If he is removing the render where the flashing is the be (as he should) then the concrete fillet will naturally be removed too (as it should be)

 

[veedee]

If he is removing the render where the flashing is the be (as he should) then the concrete fillet will naturally be removed too (as it should be)

Does he need to remove all of the silvery coating?

I thought that the silvery coating was an attempt by a previous roofer to water proof the area. Is it a slurry?

Is it a bodge job to simply remove the concrete fillet, chase the silvery coating so that it goes into the brickwork 30mm. Embed the flashing into the chase then apply the lead sealant?

Above the flashing, the silvery coating will remain

 

[denso13]

Does he need to remove all of the silvery coating?

Not if it is sound with no water getting behind it. You can't tell that from a photo though.

 

[veedee]

Not if it is sound with no water getting behind it. You can't tell that from a photo though.

Got it.

So if the silvery coating is sound then it can remain

However if it is blown/ allows water to get behind it then it needs to go.

I am assuming that he can simply hack off the defective area and render over this? Or would it all have to come off?

FYI I haven't had any further comments about the 'lead sealant', so I am working on the assumption that it is perfectly fine to use

 

[denso13]

I am assuming that he can simply hack off the defective area and render over this?

Yes, but only smaller areas. The more boss/poor areas there are I'd be inclined to take it all off and redo.

 

[veedee]

Thanks denso

 

[^woody^]

The render itself should be a good enough water-proofer. The "silvery coating" seems to be some sort of waterproof sealer applied over the whole lot in an attempt to cure some sort of water penetration without knowing the cause.

In which case if the coating is covering up defects, then you will never know what the defects are or that they are there in the first place.

Also if the coating is failing, or will soon fail, then that may expose problems at some future time.

It's a dogs dinner. Ideally it wants to be all removed, the render and wall assessed and any remedial works carried out. Alternatively the coating wants assessing to check that it is still performing and will do so for a good few years, and if necessary reapplied completely, not patched.

 

[veedee]

Thanks woody.

Agreed, it is a dogs dinner

We went on the roof and the substrate was solid (ie not blown)

The plan is that the silvery coating + lead flashing will prevent water ingress for a couple years. Then we will do loft conversion

 

[veedee]

The roofer asked me how high I'd want the lead flashing. He presented two options, one low and one high

Is there some sort of recommended guide i can refer to on the correct height of the lead flashing with respect to the concrete tile?

Why an 'experienced' roofer is asking this is beyond me

 

[^woody^]

Why an 'experienced' roofer is asking this is beyond me

So that he can blame you if it don't work?

It should be at least 150mm above the slates

 

[datarebal]

Get another roofer

 

[Terrywookfit]

Make sure soakers are fitted.

 

[veedee]

So that he can blame you if it don't work?

It should be at least 150mm above the slates

Thank woody

They are Redland 49 concrete tiles. Does that make a difference or is it still at least 150mm above the roof tiles?

 

[veedee]

Get another roofer

I'm very tempted

but all the roofers that came to see the job have been as bad as one another

Make sure soakers are fitted.

I heard that I wouldn't need soakers with redland 49 concrete tiles or an i mistaken?

 

[datarebal]

You don't need soakers with Marley Ludlow plus or redland 49