Is this notifiable?

If the distance between joist top and outer edge of hole does not exceed 50mm there is no need to install safeplates.

:confused:

Or it could be the opposite :!:
Don't quite get what you mean :confused:

Sorry to be so pedantic. We are 'singing from the same hymn sheet' so to speak, but you did say:
"If the distance between joist top and outer edge of hole does NOT exceed 50mm (in other words 50mm or less) there is NO NEED to install safeplates.

Obviously it's when the depth is less than 50mm that safeplates are needed.

(Perhaps you meant 'EXCEED' in a 'negative' sense.) ;)
 
Sponsored Links
If the distance between joist top and outer edge of hole does not exceed 50mm there is no need to install safeplates.

:confused:

Or it could be the opposite :!:
Don't quite get what you mean :confused:
He means that you've essentially got it the wrong way round.

If the distance between the joist top and the outer edge of hole does not exceed 50mm then it is less than or equal to 50mm. Ignoring the boundary case where it's exactly 50mm, if it's less than 50mm then safeplates are needed.
 
Sponsored Links
flesh.jpg
 
If they are only 3 inch top to bottom then their ability to carry any weight has to be considered.

As Tickly T says they may be the lower member of roof trusses and as such are there to stop the ends of the rafters moving outwards. They will bend if any weight is put on them.

But if they are more than 3 inch and are capable of carrying a load then an alternative to drilling them is to pin strips of 1 inch thick timber on the top leaving gaps for cables laying on top of them. Then lay the boarding on the top of these.

And remember the weight of the chip board when estimating how much weight you can store up there. Marine plywood is lighter but more expensive.
 
These timbers are roughly 3x3, slightly under if anything. Does that make them unsuitable for having more joists laid perpedicular and composite boards on top? It's just for light storage. I've walked around on what's up there without falling through, and I don't see how that point load's ever going to be exceeded.. How would I tell if I have a truss or a joist?
 
Sorry to be so pedantic. We are 'singing from the same hymn sheet' so to speak, but you did say:
"If the distance between joist top and outer edge of hole does NOT exceed 50mm
Your right never noticed that, how did the not get there? I should not have put it in. Must improve my English.
I will edit it, just in case someone else reads it and thinks it's a correct method or if someone else sees it and pulls me up about.
Thanks for the pull me up!
 
barrythegoldsmith,
How deep are your loft joist?
The trend is now to install 270mm depth of insulation.
So if your existing loft joists are say, "100mm" you could add extra timber joists, running perpendicular to your existing joist, install the recommended amount of insulation board your loft out and no cables need moving.
Sorry about the bit of duff info in earlier post regarding hole not exceeding 50mm from top side of joist, was a type error and I should have spotted it. I have now edited it.
 
barrythegoldsmith,
How deep are your loft joist?
The trend is now to install 270mm depth of insulation.
So if your existing loft joists are say, "100mm" you could add extra timber joists, running perpendicular to your existing joist, install the recommended amount of insulation board your loft out and no cables need moving.
Sorry about the bit of duff info in earlier post regarding hole not exceeding 50mm from top side of joist, was a type error and I should have spotted it. I have now edited it.

No worries, should have realised it was a typo. The joists are only about three inches deep, 75mm, over most of the expanse.
 
So you are only going to get a maximum of 75mm insulation in your loft, you really need more than that.
I would go for the additional timbers and add more insulation, thus killing two birds with one stone.
 
I would take the advice of a roofing expert. I'd be surprised if joists that small could take the weight of boards, let alone stuff stored up there.

Modern roof structures have no spare capacity - the weight of the plasterboard ceilings is all they can cope with.
 
What type of supporting walls do you have and how do these joist span them.
I have seen many older properties that have 75mm joist and these joist are supporting the whole floor and dividing walls of the upstairs, this will also includes furniture and of course the odd person or two.
It really depends on the span and supports of the joists.
But what we must remember is that generally speaking lofts are designed for light storage.
 
Thanks for trying mate, but I reckon since I have no idea how to tell whether I have joists or tresses or what type of supporting wall I have, might be best just to get someone in for a look. I'll get some quotes, see what's suggested and maybe have a go based on that if there's nothing structural.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top