Is this rising damp?

Thanks for the info
I've checked all the airbricks and no blockages.
My neighbour's drain against her wall is not overflowing anymore as she's cleared it and I got her to hose it to make sure there's no more overflow.
So,as you and woody say, it does seem like a condensation problem.
I'm scratching my head a bit as to how the condensation gets under the wallpaper to lift it off.
 
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I'm scratching my head a bit as to how the condensation gets under the wallpaper to lift it off.
It'll not just be in the wallpaper, but also the plaster and the brick behind. Most building materials are porous to water vapour which is why membranes have to be used if you need to control it.

In fact, it is quite likely the water vapour doesn't actually condense to liquid water until it is inside the wall itself, (because the further it passes through the wall the nearer to the cold side it gets) so the "dampness" is being created underneath the wall paper. The remedy for dampness is ventilation - movement of unsaturated air across a surface will evaporate liquid water, and the dryer the moving air, the quicker it will evaporate it.
 
Why don't you want to show us photos of the surroundings?
 
not overflowing anymore as she's cleared it


When?

How do you know the 100 year old drain and gulley are not leaking in the ground? Which is usual?

We don't know where it is in relation to the damp.
 
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Nothing is
Rubbish. Rising damp is absolutely real but unfortunately has been used as an excuse to fleece people by dodgy contractors over the years.

You need to look outside, check the height of the DPC relative to the ground. If that drain has been fixed only recently then it will take years for the situation to recover.
 
Damp within the wall can cause condensation. It makes the wall cold, so more moisture from the interior air condenses onto it. So even if it is condensation that doesn't prove that there's no damp. It may be both.
 
Damp within the wall can cause condensation. It makes the wall cold, so more moisture from the interior air condenses onto it. So even if it is condensation that doesn't prove that there's no damp. It may be both.
This is spot on - damp from other sources will try and evaporate, and the process of evaporation causes cooling, so one problem feeds another - IMHO this is why there is so much conjecture on this subject, because it is often a combination of several factors - the third factor after penetration and condensation is of course salt contamination which can also present the symptoms of "rising damp" through absorption of water vapour from the air. A 1930's house should have a DPC though, so unless it is bridged or failed, damp from the ground shouldn't get passed it.
 

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The photo in the left is my house.Rge hedge divides the garden.Photo on the right shows the drain in front of the wall
 
Please find the DPC and mark it in chalk for your next pic.

I will not be in the least surprised if the garden level or render negates it.

The trough drain is suspicious. The sort of thing that is added when the paving is too high.
 
The DPC (Damp Proof Course) is bridged (covered), by the render, giving a porous path for moisture to rise from the ground and cross it. Ideally it needs to be chopped off from just above it. E.g. like this...


...but also check drains.
 
You've had great advice on this thread and I think all the main points have been covered. Damp on walls can have all sorts of causes and is normal in our cool, damp climate. It can be caused by really common behaviour and nothing to worry about. It is always worth taking time to think it through carefully and identify, rule out, the different sources, and then patiently monitor, before resorting to expensive, possibly snake oil, solutions.

Some thoughts from my own experience...

- every person living in your home is producing moisture in the air when they breathe.
- boiling spuds n ribs on the hob produces huge amounts of moisture.
- women taking long baths and showers, producing vast quantities of moisture, then leaving the bathroom door open after they're finished... and then blow drying their soaked hair in another room...

All that moisture and more besides is going to find its way around your home and then condense on cold spots. Windows in winter, external walls, especially outside walls behind furniture.

I have these rules in my house:

- no furniture allowed against an outside wall. Minimum gap required to allow ventilation and enable me to monitor and take action if needed.
- bathroom door to be kept closed at all times, extractor fan on and window wide open after showers.
- kitchen door kept closed during cooking, and window or external door open, no matter how cold outside. Ventilation.
- no drying of clothes in the house unless in the dryer.
- use a dehumidifer for an hour or so a day in the colder months especially. Costs about 5p an hour with a modern one.
- generally try to ensure ventilation and home properly heated, even though it can be pricey.

If, after all that, you still have damp spots some months later after enough drying time, then other factors must be ruled out, more external to the home and your behaviour. You can isolate these earlier if there are obvious shortcomings.

I had a couple of damp bricks beneath the plaster in one room which I discovered when plaster and skirting boards removed. Surprise, Surprise, outside that very area, the previous owners had built up a big platform of muck and flag stones against the house, 1 brick below DPC, falling towards the house in a corner that never gets sun or wind on it. Tonnes of splashing from rain. I removed the lot. Now more than 2 bricks below DPC with a proper fall away from the house.

Another area with swollen plaster... dodgy old drain outside that wall which I had replaced, and reduced the ground level a bit, making a fall away from the house. The roofer later said water had been leaking into the cavity where main roof meets flat roofed extension. Now all replaced.

Finally, I disagree with those who say there is no such thing as rising damp. Bricks below DPC can be soaked and bricks above bone dry. That's the point of the DPC. If the DPC isn't there, is damaged, or bridged by paving or render, etc. then moisture can make its way above the DPC by capillary action. We might say the damp is "rising". So you cannot rule out fixing the DPC and there are chemical ways to achieve this, such as rods and so on. But there are many other issues to isolate first in my opinion.

Ps... if you've had moisture coming through the plaster at any point then there may be salts left behind from the evaporation process. Those salts can then attract moisture from the air. This is yet another angle. A special paint can neutralise salts.
 
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The DPC (Damp Proof Course) is bridged (covered), by the render, giving a porous path for moisture to rise from the ground and cross it. Ideally it needs to be chopped off from just above it. E.g. like this...


...but also check drains.
So what you're saying is I have to take off the render to the the DPC?
I don't even know if there is a DPC
 

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