Joist hangers with lime mortar and old bricks

Seems like a 9" angle grinder is going to be needed to make slots for the hangers?
Mine's a 4.5" grinder so not going to make big enough slots? Is there another way to do it?
Otherwise the hangers are a non starter. Back to slotting in the joist.
 
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Drill a few holes and plugging chisel to join them

Some hangers only need a 50mm wide slot. it depends where you buy them from
 
Back to slotting in the joist.

That woodster's led you a merry dance :p . I said in my first post,

I would forget the hangers and build the new joists into the masonry. Wrap the joist ends in DPC.

Just make sure you completely wrap the joist ends, fold the DPC over as though you're wrapping a present and make sure it extends to cover the surface in contact with the masonry. If it makes it easier get a roll of 300/450mm it'll only cost you £10-12ish.
 
That woodster's led you a merry dance :p . I said in my first post,

Tis' nowt, but a healthy exchange of ideas :)

I would forget the hangers and build the new joists into the masonry. Wrap the joist ends in DPC.

Indeed. I still have that in mind.
The old joist is out now. The holes are huge. One is 3 brick courses high, which was hidden behind the skirting. Not mortared in at all. Even pre-rot that joist end was only inserted about an inch into the wall.
Noticed that the floorboard next to the wall (which was just above the worst rotten joist end) and the skirting just above that, were damp in places and had woodworm holes.
Looks like I'll have to put DPC against the wall when battening this section? And even DPC next to floorboards? I've noticed Kingspan show this method now.

Back to the joist. It does seem more complicated to use the hanger. More stuff to get right. Though there's still stuff to do with plain inserting. The holes are not level. I've seen a few other threads here where others have successfully used hangers in a Victorian house.
Getting the brickwork back in shape is just matter of repairing the hole properly and waiting for it to gain some strength.
 
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Getting the brickwork back in shape is just matter of repairing the hole properly and waiting for it to gain some strength.

A couple of tips, if you have to replace any brickwork use solid engineering bricks. Make sure your mortar is a decent strength (4:1 or even a tadge stronger if it's really damp down there). Pack the voids around the brickwork / joist end fully with mortar. Use offcuts of roofing slate as packers to get the joist ends to the correct level if required.

hth
 
Drill a few holes and plugging chisel to join them

Still considering both options. Easy hotrod :)

What concerns me here, is that if the position for the slot is near the edge of a brick then it's almost impossible to drill right at brick edge. Drill will keep slipping.
Also, these old bricks have a tendency to break if knocked about.
 
Make sure your mortar is a decent strength (4:1 or even a tadge stronger if it's really damp down there).

I've been using sharp sand and NHL 3.5 3:1.

Pack the voids around the brickwork / joist end fully with mortar. Use offcuts of roofing slate as packers to get the joist ends to the correct level if required.

Ok. A few tips from the pros, if I may?
What's the best way to cut slate to fit the holes? Angle grinder? It seems to break pretty randomly otherwise.
In one joist hole there is a join between two bricks at the bottom. One brick is a couple of mm higher than the other. Overall the joist is about 6mm too high in that hole.
What to do if the course of bricks that is exposed is about 6mm too high? How to remove 4-6mm off the top of the two bricks that currently form the base of the joist hole?
Thanks.
 
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=574&q=scutch&gs_upl=441553l444074l0l444837l6l6l0l1l1l0l287l1136l0.1.4l5l0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=18127525791551941645&sa=X&ei=Q_3TTt-GB5K38QO0quTMDw&ved=0CEMQ8wIwAw

Thanks for the link.
So a scutch holding chisel is what is required to remove portions of brick?
 
What's the best way to cut slate to fit the holes? Angle grinder? It seems to break pretty randomly otherwise.
.
It can be cut with a brick trowel by placing the slate at an angle on the top edge of a concrete block, and using the cutting edge of the trowel.
However, if you have an angle grinder it may be an easier option for you.
 
It can be cut with a brick trowel by placing the slate at an angle on the top edge of a concrete block, and using the cutting edge of the trowel.
However, if you have an angle grinder it may be an easier option for you.

Thanks for the tip. This seems much simpler and cleaner than the grinder. I'll give it a go.
Cheers.
 

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