@ 700deg it may struggle with 22mm, it will probably eventually work, will just take a much longer time to heat up properly.
Kitchen tap tail size
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What temperature is needed for 15mm and 22mm?
I have just discovered solder ring fittings. Those should make life slightly easier. I was concerned only getting solder on the out side edge when applying solder from the outside.
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Solder ring fittings are specified for some jobs, because they have higher reliability. No shame in using them, just cost.
Flux the pipe ( with a propr brush) not the fitting, just make sure everything is spotless first.
Wipe off excess flux before you apply heat. Not enough people do that. The joint will be neater, and the flux won't sit there boiling, holdng the temperature down until the flux is gone so it then all gets very hot very suddenly.
Start at the top fitting if there are several, otherwise the top one will overheat before you get to it (more important with endfeed fittings) where the flux can run away leaving a dry fitting.
You shouldn't need extra solder but have some handy.
That blowtorch should be fine for 22mm, as long as it doesn't flare when you angle it. Move the torch around to get even heat, and look for the solder to appear on the opposite side from the heat if using solder ring fittings. Then stop.
If you feel the need to add extra solder or for endfeed, do it on that opposite side.
If you end up with a determined tiny weep from a compression fitting, leave it a day if you can. They stop by themselves, and nobody knows why!
Flux the pipe ( with a propr brush) not the fitting, just make sure everything is spotless first.
Wipe off excess flux before you apply heat. Not enough people do that. The joint will be neater, and the flux won't sit there boiling, holdng the temperature down until the flux is gone so it then all gets very hot very suddenly.
Start at the top fitting if there are several, otherwise the top one will overheat before you get to it (more important with endfeed fittings) where the flux can run away leaving a dry fitting.
You shouldn't need extra solder but have some handy.
That blowtorch should be fine for 22mm, as long as it doesn't flare when you angle it. Move the torch around to get even heat, and look for the solder to appear on the opposite side from the heat if using solder ring fittings. Then stop.
If you feel the need to add extra solder or for endfeed, do it on that opposite side.
If you end up with a determined tiny weep from a compression fitting, leave it a day if you can. They stop by themselves, and nobody knows why!
The leak on mine didn't stop on multiple days - 2 to 3 drops a day. If it stopped for plumbers is because the customer decided it's easier to live with it. I briefly considered that, but the perfectionist in me didn't allow it.
My theory for this kind of leaks is wonky olive. If the nut is tight enough, the compression on the olive will continue after you are gone, leading to eventual closing of the gap. But at this tightness, you are doing damage in other ways, such as deforming the pipe.
DIY jobs are generally small. The extra cost of the solder ring is worth it since it guarantees solder all around the pipe and deeper in. I am still gathering supplies for an xmas and new year plumbing fest.
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The reason I suggest it may struggle is - The torch I use - Superfire 2 - burns @ ~1750 DegC with propane & ~1950DegC with Mapp. That torch won't even get to half that temp.
The trouble with that can be is, it will happily melt the solder but it may not be able to get the copper hot enough for the solder to flow and take to it properly, the larger the pipe the more heat it needs and it can give a false take, that could blow off later.
The trouble with that can be is, it will happily melt the solder but it may not be able to get the copper hot enough for the solder to flow and take to it properly, the larger the pipe the more heat it needs and it can give a false take, that could blow off later.
There was a handy man on youtube claiming a heat gun could be used for solder rings. A heat gun could do about 600C. At least my blow torch could do better. But, won't know until I try, and I won't try until the welding mat arrives.
For my pipe bending training, I did a double bender. The elbows of the bends are significantly larger than what can be achieved by soldering and compression. Still, I eliminated 2 potential leak spots by using bendy pipe. The previously greased copper olives could be reused after pulling out with a puller. What appears to be a dent in the pipe is actually the typical rise at the end of the bend.
Replaced a couple of compression T's and taken out 6 points of potential leaks. The solder from the solder rings didn't come out all that well in horizontal positions, but dribbled profusely in bottom locations. I didn't try hard to add more solder to fill bits at the top. I used the minimum setting on the blow torch and have plenty of heat capacity left to be able to deal with 22mm fittings.
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Looks good, well done.
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