Kitchen Unit Install Help Needed

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Yes i think those are the best solution
I spoke to them, 47 minute call, said that the brackets go in the top corners. I said that there is no room to include but they said that the brackets have to go in the top corner, this went on and on so i had to give up in the end
What i am going to have to do is make a circular hole and then use a filler bit
 
I think i will cut a 32mm hole and then use a 35mm hinge hole cover to cover it up, just hope i can get the right colour
 
I spoke to them, 47 minute call, said that the brackets go in the top corners. I said that there is no room to include but they said that the brackets have to go in the top corner, this went on and on so i had to give up in the end
Really?

Its a shame that, I guess, you need to get these cabinets installed asap, as ideally you should write a letter to the CEO, including this:

capture-screw-jpg.236100


and ask him to find someone in the company who can explain how, in the bottom diagram, you can get a screwdriver into the screws.
 
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I've used Pyramid brackets in the top corners of cabinets, when I felt they needed bracing, and you can screw through them into the wall.

but I am sure I would either remove or notch the back panel, or drill an access hole through it.

Is the back panel hardboard; will it slide out; how deep is the space behind it?
 
but I am sure I would either remove or notch the back panel, or drill an access hole through it.
The OP says it cant be removed and you should so not have to make holes or notches in your cupboards to fix them.
 
Its a bit of a crazy situation really, i am sure that people are installing these every day of the week. Was speaking to someone earlier who has a tower unit and what they did was to install the bracket upwards so it goes vertically from the top. I guess you wouldn't be able to see it because of the height and there is a cornice at the top anyway.

When i put up the plasterboard i put in noggins in a straight line near the top so depending on where they are (stud finder coming out later) i will either do the vertical thing or if they are lower the hole cutter thing. I can probably guess now that they will not be where i need them to be but hey ho.

I will definitely be writing to Wren though as i have paid an enormous sum for this and expect a decent instruction. I could have got them to install but they wanted £5k (its a big kitchen).
 
Maybe their fitters get a different set of instructions that actually make sense, and that's what the £5k is for :confused:
Can you not get a 1/4" ratchet handle in there, driven from above? Just don't drop it...
Even so, doesn't help you drill the holes.
 
OK that one is sorted

Next issue i have is a walk in larder cupboard. I am installing the kitchen before installing the laminate flooring. All of the units are on legs so i have increased the legs by 5mm for underlay, 7mm for laminate and 5 mm for the sealing strip. The legs should be set at 150mm as this is the height of the plinth strip but i have set them at 167mm which is fine on the units.

The problem i am foreseeing here is this blimmin larder does not have feet and basically sits on the floor so i am going to have to either sit the larder on 17mm strips (not impossible) to get the right height - or i could install the laminate in that section and make sure that the cabinets that are adjacent are lowered to same level as the larder top.

Not too sure which way to jump on this one
Walk in larder? That would be a room ?
 
Just a full height cupboard.
With cutaway shelves so you can sort of step inside. And store less, of course, but thats a small price to pay for being able to take half a step forward walk into it.

I guess if you were very small (or a child) you could close the door behind you for even more enhanced functionality!
 

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