led flashing for rubber roof

[Jupiter01]

I am building a small lean to shed 3m x 60cm on the side of my house. It will have a slight slope along the 3m length. I am guessing that it will drop around 5cm over this distance. Can I grind out a diagonal line across the bricks for the led flashing or should I be stepping the led as I work across this decline? The former seems a lot simpler as the led doesn't need to be cut or stepped but not sure of the drawbacks, if any.


Thanks in advance.

 

[^woody^]

Stepped flashing are easier than trying to grind a straight, even, angled slot - which only look OK on rendered elevations.

 

[Jupiter01]

Stepped flashing are easier than trying to grind a straight, even, angled slot - which only look OK on rendered elevations.

Surely the straighter line is easier to run a grinder along and then push the flashing into? As opposed to lining the led up to the brick edges and then cutting it out.

 

[^woody^]

No it's not easier.

 

[Tetrarch]

Can you not just channel out some of the pointing and just fix in the EPDM directly with some roofing sealant?

Regards

Tet

 

[foxhole]

You don’t have to use lead.

Metal Wall Trim | Roof Flashing Trim | Rubber Roofing Direct

A Metal Wall Flashing Trim is an ideal replacement roof flashing for lead when an EPDM roofing membrane meets a wall or parapet. Order online now.

www.rubberroofingdirect.co.uk

 

[Jupiter01]

You don’t have to use lead.

Metal Wall Trim | Roof Flashing Trim | Rubber Roofing Direct

A Metal Wall Flashing Trim is an ideal replacement roof flashing for lead when an EPDM roofing membrane meets a wall or parapet. Order online now.

www.rubberroofingdirect.co.uk

If I am using this, how do I fit it on a slope?

 

[foxhole]

If I am using this, how do I fit it on a slope?

Screw sacrificial baton to wall and use as a guide to channel wall with grinder.

 

[Tetrarch]

Given that it's only a couple of inches could you not extend the flashing to the next brick course and have it horizontal at the top, rather than either of the below? I would show a picture but I can't find one at present


Personally I think that this:

looks a ton better than this:

Regards

Tet

 

[Jupiter01]

Given that it's only a couple of inches could you not extend the flashing to the next brick course and have it horizontal at the top, rather than either of the below? I would show a picture but I can't find one at present

ah, step it a couple of times across the entire length?

 

[cdbe]

Just use a deeper flashing.

Or as said glue the EPDM up the wall and use a horizontal metal trim. The taper of 50mm won't be noticed over 3m.

 

[Jupiter01]

Thought a picture may help explain my current situation:

The shed is going in between the grey soil pipe and the gate on the other side. the current shed (top right) will be removed and the gate opening will move to that side.
One of the new shed uprights will be just inside the grey soil pipe and the other side will be where the gate is (past the white drain pipe).

The top of the shed will track the horizontal soil pipe and this picture should give you a good indication of the slope.

I would welcome any thoughts on this. Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Tetrarch]

ah, step it a couple of times across the entire length?

No - I was suggesting not stepping it at all. The slope is only 5cm over 3m. If the EPDM were flashed in at, say 80mm at the top then only 130mm would be exposed at the end of the 3m run.

Assuming that the EPDM is glued to the wall then this would be unobtrusive, especially as it's the same material running horizontally and vertically

Regards

Tet

Thought a picture may help explain my current situation:

View attachment 314647

The shed is going in between the grey soil pipe and the gate on the other side. the current shed (top right) will be removed and the gate opening will move to that side.
One of the new shed uprights will be just inside the grey soil pipe and the other side will be where the gate is (past the white drain pipe).

The top of the shed will track the horizontal soil pipe and this picture should give you a good indication of the slope.

I would welcome any thoughts on this. Thanks for all the help so far.

Wow! - That makes everything crystal clear.

What were you planning re guttering? - In an ideal world the slope would be the complete opposite direction to hit your white downpipe

What shape shed were you proposing?

If you had a pent roof with a downsope away from theb house, you could encapsulate the soil pipe into your new shed. There are waterproof off-the-shelf shoes for the vertical and the horizontal would be covered by an overhang. With a downward slope you could then run mini-guttering round the corner to intercept the white downpipe.

This is exactly what I've done to accomodate a chimney. I'm re-rerendering, so nothing is final in this picture, but you get the idea

Regards

Tet

 

[Deluks]

Box the soil pipe in above the shed.
Then you can have a straight run of flashing onto the box.

Cover the box with your EPDM (or whatever the shed roof is made out of.

 

[Jupiter01]

Can I please check, are you suggesting I put the roof here (black line)?

I hadn't considered this. This would give a me a straight roof and allow me to use flashing into the straight mortar line. This will mean that the roof has the white drain pipe going through it along with two lots of grey soil pipes. The upright soil pipe continues upwards and with this option, I will make the shed wider and finish it after this upright pipe. If I can reliably make these water tight, this would be an excellent solution. Thanks again!

Given how wide this will now become, I will probably have two sets of double doors to access different parts of this shed. I am using this for my tools and can organize them logically. The two sets of doors will allow me to easily access the shelving as this is is not very wide.

Should I be concerned that these sections of the pipe wont be accessible for maintenance. Is that an issue?

I would appreciate your comments on any of the above. Thanks again.