LEDs flash very so often

[chriselevate]

I've replaced a load of 50watt halogen GU10's with 5watt LED GU10's. In one area (where there's 6 bulbs) on of the bulbs flashes once (very quick flash) ever 30-60seconds. When I remove the bulb it passes to another one if the bulbs and I remove this it moves to the next. Any ideas?

I've heard you can buy something to fit this circuit (behind the spot light of one) that will stop it. Does this sound right? What would you do?

Thanks

 

[bernardgreen]

Some low energy lamps glow dimly others flash due to capaciitive coupled power by passing the switch.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1955747#1955747

 

[JohnD]

if you leave one halogen fitted, it will drain away the voltage and prevent flickering.

There are more difficult ways of achieving the same thing.

 

[bernardgreen]

A more convenient source of the contact supressor is Maplins

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/contact-suppressor-rg22y

This has a 0.1uF capacitor which is a bit of an over kill but better too large than too small.

There are other suppliers.


Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/3-way-switching.415532/#3223500#ixzz3GWSus9ll

 

[chriselevate]

Actually this is a 3-way switched light so is that why it's playing up?
So where would you suggest wiring suppressor? Will I need go pull down a light fitting it can it be done inside the light switch etc?
Thanks.

 

[JohnW2]

Actually this is a 3-way switched light so is that why it's playing up?

Not specifically- it can happen with the simplest of switching.

So where would you suggest wiring suppressor? Will I need go pull down a light fitting it can it be done inside the light switch etc?

It needs to be connected between the (switched) live going to the lamps and neutral. The switched live will be available at the switch but, unless you're lucky, neutral probably won't be (look for two blue or two black wires connected together in a little block behind the switch). If no neutral is available at the switch, you'll probably have little choice but to connected it within a light fitting.

Kind Regards, John

 

[chriselevate]

Thanks John. When you say within a light fitting do you mean remove the light fitting from the ceiling and solder it at that point?
Thanks

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks John. When you say within a light fitting do you mean remove the light fitting from the ceiling and solder it at that point?

There shouldn't be any soldering necessary. Find the place where the incoming cable connects to the fitting - often in some sort of terminal block (with wires secured by screws) and simply connect the suppressor to the live and neutral of those connections, along with whatever conductors/wires are already there (i.e. putting suppressor wires into same terminal holes as existing L and N conductors/wires). Is that (rather messy description!) clear?

Kind Regards, John

 

[chriselevate]

Perfect, thanks John! So in other words, the suppressor joins the live and neutral together (obviously it's more technical than that buts in simple terms that's what it does)?

I guess another way to do it (if I cant get to the joining block) would be to lift the cap where the cable enters the lamp and add it there? Or if there's no room at that point I could cut the cable and put it into a wago box and use a multiple wago connector to wire in the suppressor?

 

[JohnW2]

Perfect, thanks John! So in other words, the suppressor joins the live and neutral together (obviously it's more technical than that buts in simple terms that's what it does)?

It would probably sound less alarming if you said that the suppressor "goes between" the (switched) live and neutral (rather than "join them", which would result in a big bang when the light was switched on ) - but, yes!

I guess another way to do it (if I cant get to the joining block) would be to lift the cap where the cable enters the lamp and add it there? Or if there's no room at that point I could cut the cable and put it into a wago box and use a multiple wago connector to wire in the suppressor?

You are making it sound more difficult/complicated than it ought to be. Is there any chance of photos of the connections to one of the light fittngs?

Kind Regards, John

 

[chriselevate]

Brilliant. Thanks for bearing with me John. Thought I'd ask the questions before bulldozing my way through it and wishing I'd have asked first.

Ok so here is my light switch:

Here is the light fitting

Here is inside the casing

And here is the part I've bought from maplin

I'm assuming I can add the suppressor somewhere that is shown? Thanks again for you help and input,

 

[JohnW2]

Brilliant. Thanks for bearing with me John. Thought I'd ask the questions before bulldozing my way through it and wishing I'd have asked first. ... Ok so Here is inside the casing ... And here is the part I've bought from maplin ... I'm assuming I can add the suppressor somewhere that is shown? Thanks again for you help and input,

Assuming there is enough space, you could connect your suppressor (together with the existing wires) to those brown and blue wires going to the lamp. You'll need to put little bits of sleeving over the leads of the suppressor, so that they are not just bare wire.

Kind Regards, John

 

[chriselevate]

John you are a star! Thanks! Job done and works a treat. So what is that little maplin thing doing? Stopping some of the current passing so it doesn't allow enough to build up to flash the LED light?

Thanks again mate... really appreciated your help.

 

[JohnW2]

John you are a star! Thanks! Job done and works a treat. So what is that little maplin thing doing? Stopping some of the current passing so it doesn't allow enough to build up to flash the LED light? Thanks again mate... really appreciated your help.

You're welcome. The 'capacitive coupling' between cables which bernard mentioned results in a tiny current flowing - far too little to produce any light with an old-fashioned filament lamp/bulb, but sometimes enough to make LEDs or energy-saving lamps produce a little light. There's not really any practical way of stopping that tiny current flowing but, with what you've installed, it's now nearly all flowing through the 'little maplin thing' rather than the LEDs - hence no light/flickering!

Kind Regards, John

 

[RF Lighting]

I can't see any earth wire connected to that METAL switch.