Lifting flooring

[spiidey]

Getting ready to lay the flooring, so need to hire the appropriate tool to cut the new boards.

If we're hiring a circular saw to do the job, what exactly do we need to specify when booking the hire? I.e. Are there different types of circular saw in terms of type of blade, depth of cut etc

 

[spiidey]

Anyone able to help with this?

 

[spiidey]

Anyone?

 

[cajar]

If you're cutting 22mm boards, just make sure it's got more than 22mm depth cut at 90 degrees.

The more teeth in the blade the smoother (and slower the cut)

If you're not used to using these saws - make sure you secure the workpiece and support the offcut, keep both hands on the saw at all times, and wear ppe.

 

[spiidey]

If you're cutting 22mm boards, just make sure it's got more than 22mm depth cut at 90 degrees.

The more teeth in the blade the smoother (and slower the cut)

If you're not used to using these saws - make sure you secure the workpiece and support the offcut, keep both hands on the saw at all times, and wear ppe.

Thanks for the guidance.

What ppe should be worn?

What should be used clothing wise / insulation wise to guard against the (small/low) probability of the saw cutting through an electric cable below the floorboards?

Finally, is the handle itself insulated (I.e. In the product below), so that if the saw does cut through an electric cable, the current wouldnt hit the operator?

http://www.hss.com/hire/p/circular-...7krTTTAA1_NJNu-Fswa6AaAjbl8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[spiidey]

Do I need to put noggins between the joists where the existing flooring will meet the new flooring (shown as the red line in the pic below).

If so, why?

 

[spiidey]

Anyone able to help with this?

 

[Nozzle]

Is the intentional of the noggins to support the floor because of lack of flange??? If so, then maybe.

If the intention is to stiffen the floor, don't bother as you have those metal cross pieces that do the job well.

Nozzle

 

[spiidey]

Is the intentional of the noggins to support the floor because of lack of flange??? If so, then maybe.

If the intention is to stiffen the floor, don't bother as you have those metal cross pieces that do the job well.

Nozzle

Thanks Nozzle.

Definitely not to stiffen the floor, as you say we have the metal cross pieces across all of the joists.

Its more to support the chipboard floor, at the exact line where the existing flooring (as shown in the pic above) will meet the new flooring that I'm laying (i.e. the red line).

I'm simply unclear whether the lack of any flange/ridge (i.e. noggin) along that red line is an issue in terms of support for the join of the existing/new flooring.

 

[spiidey]

Anyone able to help with this?

 

[Nozzle]

Yeah, I'd chuck some noggins in

Nozzle

 

[AlanE]

Anyone able to help with this?

Be patient remember it may take a day or so for people to reply, impatience tends to stop people posting replies on forums.

With regards your job couple of suggestions.

If you are concerned about only 20mm overlap onto joist at side of room then before laying floor screw a 50 x 25mm strip of wood to side of joist, you now have an overlay of 50mm almost.

Where new floor abuts existing glue and screw 100mm wide strips of chipboard under existing floor so about 50mm is under existing floor and 50mm to fix new floor to. Otherwise the join will squeak - guaranteed! Plus ensuring old and new floors are joined together will help prevent flexing and eliminate risk of a slight ridge.

With regards Wickes flooring, catalogue shows bright green finish but I have just had delivered around 25 sheets of the stuff and the finish is more a green tint.

 

[spiidey]

Anyone able to help with this?

Be patient remember it may take a day or so for people to reply, impatience tends to stop people posting replies on forums.

With regards your job couple of suggestions.

If you are concerned about only 20mm overlap onto joist at side of room then before laying floor screw a 50 x 25mm strip of wood to side of joist, you now have an overlay of 50mm almost.

Where new floor abuts existing glue and screw 100mm wide strips of chipboard under existing floor so about 50mm is under existing floor and 50mm to fix new floor to. Otherwise the join will squeak - guaranteed! Plus ensuring old and new floors are joined together will help prevent flexing and eliminate risk of a slight ridge.

With regards Wickes flooring, catalogue shows bright green finish but I have just had delivered around 25 sheets of the stuff and the finish is more a green tint.

Thanks, and apologies for being impatient, I'm just keen to crack on but agree it could put members off posting.

The chipboard flooring where the new floor abuts existing, what type of glue should be used, and how far apart should the screws be?

No noggins required on this part?

 

[AlanE]

The chipboard flooring where the new floor abuts existing, what type of glue should be used, and how far apart should the screws be?

No noggins required on this part?

I normally use PVA wood glue to glue boards down, and on each T & G and screw to joists around 100mm apart

 

[spiidey]

The chipboard flooring where the new floor abuts existing, what type of glue should be used, and how far apart should the screws be?

No noggins required on this part?

I normally use PVA wood glue to glue boards down, and on each T & G and screw to joists around 100mm apart

How far apart should the screws be on the chipboard flooring that is glued/screwed to the undersides of the existing&new chipboard flooring?