That's okay.
The figures I gave you were for 1mm the figures for 1.5mm current carrying capacity are 20Amps clipped direct and 10Amps if buried in cable - so I would say you are okay for a 10Amb MCB
lighting load and a 6 amp MCB
- Thread starter misterlister
- Start date
Sponsored Links
Based on your helpful info I think there is no risk with changing to a 10 amp MCB - should I still down rate the load on the circuit anyway
Thanks again mate
Thanks again mate
The root of the problem is this:
Fiddling around with low-energy lamps doesn't really address the fact that the reason you've got masses of spotlights is that they aren't designed to light up rooms. They are called spotlights because they produce spots of light, or only light up spots. If you think about it they are actually deliberately designed to not light rooms up. Plus if you have them in upstairs rooms you have to do a lot of work to ensure that you don't compromise the loft insulation, and in bathrooms even more work to prevent warm moist air getting into the loft and condensing onto the timbers.
If you have just moved in, and are planning redecorating, you might like to give serious thought to ditching the spotlights.
Re having 1 circuit, often there's a single cable running from the ground floor lighting loop up into the loft - if you can find it you can easily split the circuit there - just watch out for how your landing light is wired, assuming it's 2-way switched, in case splitting the circuit creates a borrowed neutral.
Fiddling around with low-energy lamps doesn't really address the fact that the reason you've got masses of spotlights is that they aren't designed to light up rooms. They are called spotlights because they produce spots of light, or only light up spots. If you think about it they are actually deliberately designed to not light rooms up. Plus if you have them in upstairs rooms you have to do a lot of work to ensure that you don't compromise the loft insulation, and in bathrooms even more work to prevent warm moist air getting into the loft and condensing onto the timbers.
If you have just moved in, and are planning redecorating, you might like to give serious thought to ditching the spotlights.
Re having 1 circuit, often there's a single cable running from the ground floor lighting loop up into the loft - if you can find it you can easily split the circuit there - just watch out for how your landing light is wired, assuming it's 2-way switched, in case splitting the circuit creates a borrowed neutral.
Dead right - there are ten spots on the landing and there is no insulation above them at all. At least its kept the pipes from freezing...
Good advice re potentially splitting the circuit - I will have to take some time to trace where it goes after it dissapears under the bathroom floor.
A redecorate is out of the question at the mo - hence the comments on cost.
even if I can split it I would need a CU with more room, so downrating bulb wattage and / or a 10 amp MCb would be the route to go if I can't do this - main thing is knowing if that introduces a greater risk by allowing more current on to the lighting circuit - if the 6 amp MCB is ok and won't create a risk overheating in its own right, is it best to leave it in place? (obviosuly coupled with reducing the wattage on the circuit)
Good advice re potentially splitting the circuit - I will have to take some time to trace where it goes after it dissapears under the bathroom floor.
A redecorate is out of the question at the mo - hence the comments on cost.
even if I can split it I would need a CU with more room, so downrating bulb wattage and / or a 10 amp MCb would be the route to go if I can't do this - main thing is knowing if that introduces a greater risk by allowing more current on to the lighting circuit - if the 6 amp MCB is ok and won't create a risk overheating in its own right, is it best to leave it in place? (obviosuly coupled with reducing the wattage on the circuit)
Sponsored Links
As a first step definitely go for the downrating of lamps. 35W halogens are almost indistinguishable from 50W in use (particularly in the quantities you've got!!) but will quickly save you some wattage.
Back to the CU - if all your slots are full up, what are the others filled with? Might be some scope for moving things around to free up a slot for another 6A breaker.
PJ
Back to the CU - if all your slots are full up, what are the others filled with? Might be some scope for moving things around to free up a slot for another 6A breaker.
PJ
OK.
Here's something you can try:
Turn off the main switch on the consumer unit
Turn off the lighting MCB.
NOTE: You should use a test meter or voltage indicator to prove that the power is actually off!
Carefully remove one of the two red (brown?) wires from the lighting circuit MCB.
Insulate the bare conductor ( a bit of terminal block.)
Turn on the lighting MCB
Turn on the main switch
Now go round the house and see what lights do not work.
It may only be one light (garge for instance).
Then you'll know if its worth getting and electrician in to provide a new MCb and thus split the lighting circuit into two.
NOTE: Putting in a new MCB = providing a new circuit and is notifiable work that needs an experienced hand.
Here's something you can try:
Turn off the main switch on the consumer unit
Turn off the lighting MCB.
NOTE: You should use a test meter or voltage indicator to prove that the power is actually off!
Carefully remove one of the two red (brown?) wires from the lighting circuit MCB.
Insulate the bare conductor ( a bit of terminal block.)
Turn on the lighting MCB
Turn on the main switch
Now go round the house and see what lights do not work.
It may only be one light (garge for instance).
Then you'll know if its worth getting and electrician in to provide a new MCb and thus split the lighting circuit into two.
NOTE: Putting in a new MCB = providing a new circuit and is notifiable work that needs an experienced hand.
You don't allow current onto the circuit you draw it - hence the more lights you have on - and you have a lot - the more current will be drawn. The same number of lights but with a lower wattage means less current.
If you still want to use the 6Amp - (1380w) then you are going to have to lose a considerable number of those lights you have.
The second wire at the cu may of course be for a doorbell transformer, if you find yourself wondering why some lights haven't gone out.
Or burglar alarm.
There is no diversity allowed on a lighting circuit as it is quite likely that all lights will be on at once.
If your lighting circuit is in two halves from the MCB, you could change the MCB to a higher rated one eg 10A, run a radial circuit to two FCUs with 5A fuse in each and supply the lights from those. Not ideal though.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
