Loft hatch cutting out

[Koolpc]

Would you cut from inside the loft then? Just drill a hole to start?



Would a multi tool not cut a fine line so it should avoid damaging nearby bits?

Multi tool can be used to good effect if done correctly. But, as above, it is noisy and you need to go steady with it.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Would you cut from inside the loft then? Just drill a hole to start?

You can actually score a line through the plasterboard with the tip of the saw. If you are goIng to do a lot of plasterboard cutting a jab saw or drywall saw makes a lot of sense (see photo). These can start a cut by just plunging or jabbing them straight through the plasterboard. By twisting them as you plunge into the board you can drill holes for wiring as well

Would a multi tool not cut a fine line so it should avoid damaging nearby bits?

Multitools don't cut a straight line - to get a straight line with one you need to run against a straight edge, such as a regularised 3 x 2in stud

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Would you cut from inside the loft then? Just drill a hole to start?

If you are cutting down from above, I would suggest adding some temporary supports.

 

[markyyyyyy]

Just a quick question before I do this new hatch opening this week

Would you use the existing joist as an edge of the new cutout or is it best practice to use all new timbers (ie - laminate with a new timber of same size to use as edge of hatch? Cheers

 

[Deleted member 174758]

It isn't that critical

 

[markyyyyyy]

i've read conflicting advice:

should i do the ceiling cutout before cutting the joists and installing support timbers from in the loft

or should i install the support timbers before cutting the opening in the ceiling?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

What ever else you do you will need to get the temporary support in before cutting anything. That's the whole point of having them. After that the sequence isn't so important, but you will find that it is difficult to cut the ceiling joists without also cutting the ceiling plaster board, and vice versa to a degree. Either way the opening in the plasterboard will be a tad rough once done, but as you'll presumably be putting an architrave around it, that should hide it nicely.

 

[RandomGrinch]

it is difficult to cut the ceiling joists without also cutting the ceiling *plaster board, and vice versa to a degree. Either way the opening in the *plasterboard will be a tad rough once done,

*Lath and plaster!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Point taken. Same difference, just a lot more mess! And you still can't cut the joists without hitting the lath and snots

 

[markyyyyyy]

just checking my support timber is positioned correctly?

what is the best way to ensure my new hatch is square? Best to mark out on ceiling or from above?

My new hatch is narrower than my existing opening, so I’ll have to do some patch up work after

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

what is the best way to ensure my new hatch is square? Best to mark out on ceiling or from above?

You need to mark top or bottom, depending on which side you intend cutting from - cutting from above is much easier than cutting from below, plus much easier to see what you are cutting from above. Therefore - ensure the joists you plan to cut are well-supported, solid support from below is much more effective than from above. Something like a piece of floor to ceiling timber, with a piece of timber sat on top, like a T, will make a firm support.

 

[big-all]

You need to mark top or bottom, depending on which side you intend cutting from - cutting from above is much easier than cutting from below, plus much easier to see what you are cutting from above. Therefore - ensure the joists you plan to cut are well-supported, solid support from below is much more effective than from above. Something like a piece of floor to ceiling timber, with a piece of timber sat on top, like a T, will make a firm support.

Excellent idea, but try not to over push as in slight upward pressure rather than rammed in where the timbers are "over pushed" so when you cut the timbers they may close up and snag the blade
but also pin the timbers in the"T" together with pins/screws or nails and possibly up into the ceiling to stop vibration causing the "T" to fall out and let the ceiling bounce

 

[big-all]

further comments
if you have an actual hatch remember to measure the opening to fit with perhaps 20mm wiggle room [10mm all round] you may have to add space for trim pieces that need to face the trimmers and joists now that sorted you need the diagonals measured on what you have to make sure its square

also your cut line needs to be minus material off the trimmer say 50mm less

 

[markyyyyyy]

I was going to cut the opening in the ceiling first to the ‘opening cut size’ and then cut the joist 50mm either side of the opening cutout (so I install trimmer so it’s flush with edge of opening)

 

[markyyyyyy]

What tool is best to cut the joist considering I want to keep that part of the ceiling intact

Multi tool?