Man shed wiring

First question must be what do you want to run in the shed.

Using a Henley block and enclosure in house with MCB or using a non RCD protected MCB in house consumer unit with a consumer unit in the shed with RCD may tick all the boxes and where a supply over 13A is required may be only way.

However under 13A then FCU and or RCD FCU with switch FCU for lights in shed with 3A fuse may be all that is required. The requirements do change a lot depending if under or over 13A supply is required.

However more to the point is earthing arrangements. Material used in shed build and position of other houses have to be considered when deciding if to use the house TN earth or go to TT.

Just can't see the point in talking about something which clearly should be decided by the guy who is installing the system. With best will we can miss things and give totally wrong advice.

If for example some one miss read what has been said and fitted a Henley block directly feeding 4mm cable clearly this under fault conditions could be grossly overloaded. And fitting Henley Block often either means pulling DNO fuse or working live.

So if we think it is going to really be a DIY job we should not really talk about using a Henley Block and if it is going to be done by an electrician then why should we be saying anything clearly the electrician will decide what needs doing it's not up to us.

Where some one says my electrician says do this and I am not so sure I can see why talk it over but it would seem his electrician has not even been selected yet. So likely there will never be one so why suggest a Henley Block is this some form of Natural selection getting rid of DIY people?
 
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Oh i get it, the brass banjo is just compressed against the plastic using the one locknut supplied in the gland pack.
Think in the absence of double nutting it then personally id opt for a metal box or an earthing Nut

Yes, though even with a metal box I still like to take a screw though the 'banjo' to ensure electrical earth connection is sound, so if I did the same with plastic, I'd just have to use a ring crimp terminal to that screw to make the connection.
 
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if it is going to be done by an electrician then why should we be saying anything clearly the electrician will decide what needs doing it's not up to us.
We can advise the client on the full range of options that the registered electrician should be considering. At least with that help the client can have an informed discussion with the electrician and not just be fobbed off with whatever method makes most profit for the electrician.

( not all electricians are that bad )
 
Please, Low voltage is 230v, 12v is extra low voltage...
For someone so finicky you do make some serious errors.

230v is in the range of voltages classified as being low voltage
12v is in the range of voltages classified as being extra low voltage.

What you wrote implied that there was only one low voltage and that was 230v
 
Please, Low voltage is 230v, 12v is extra low voltage...
For someone so finicky you do make some serious errors.

230v is in the range of voltages classified as being low voltage
12v is in the range of voltages classified as being extra low voltage.

What you wrote implied that there was only one low voltage and that was 230v

:?:

You have quoted my signature and have stated exactly the same as my signature has. I have not implied that there is only one low voltage, you have read it that way, not knowing why I've put this in my signature.

Why did you feel the need to do this?

For someone attempting to correct me, you have made a serious error!

Idiot.
 
Please tell us what is 240v classified as ?.

It cannot be classified as low voltage as your signature states that low voltage is 230v

Oh dear, we have Bas MKII................

Ok, for your anal retention and hard of thinking, the reason my signature states that low voltage is 230v is that I'm sick of people saying....

'should I get 230v downlights or low voltage downlights?' when 230v is low voltage.

I'm sure that you're aware of this, but are feeling the need to display some arrogance as your arms and shoulders are being flung around your room in a most uncouth manner in an attempt to be the one in the right like a true pedant.

If you wish to flap some more, lets take this into another thread rather than derail someone elses.
 
the reason my signature states that low voltage is 230v is that ... 230v is low voltage.
If you cannot see the very significant difference between "230V is low voltage" and "low voltage is 230V" then it is you who is hard of thinking.
 
the reason my signature states that low voltage is 230v is that ... 230v is low voltage.
If you cannot see the very significant difference between "230V is low voltage" and "low voltage is 230V" then it is you who is hard of thinking.

Pedantry at it's best.

As I've said above, the reason for the wording..........because 230v IS lv, not 12v when people are asking for these lights.


For continuation, please see here

//www.diynot.com/forums/electrics/pedants-corner.347955/#2607162
 
As I've said above, the reason for the wording..........because 230v IS lv, not 12v when people are asking for these lights.
Indeed it is, and there is nothing whatsoever wrong with saying that.

But there's a great deal wrong with saying LV is 230V.


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What is an aeroplane? It is a Boeing 747.


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Public transport is a bus.


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Trees are oaks.


Pedantry at it's best.
No - it's your shabby, careless, laziness at its worst, and your pathetic attempts to wriggle out of it by making out that it's the people criticising you who are wrong.
 
if it is going to be done by an electrician then why should we be saying anything clearly the electrician will decide what needs doing it's not up to us.
We can advise the client on the full range of options that the registered electrician should be considering. At least with that help the client can have an informed discussion with the electrician and not just be fobbed off with whatever method makes most profit for the electrician.

( not all electricians are that bad )

Thank you, All I am trying to do is make an informed choice on what has been recommended to me. Just by reading some of the responses has raised more concerns for example if the electrician in question was just going to connect straight to the consumer unit how was he going to earth the shield wire.?

Regards
Mark
 
I don't think 'connecting straight to the consumer unit' excludes doing it properly.

That is just where the wires will be connected.
 

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