Most Likely Causes Of Clunking From NS Front Hub Suspension?
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Tell me about it. Couldn't work out why all the clips were vanishing. Then I tried squeezing the boot's bellows and comparing to the one on other side. The problem boot is quite stiff plastic, but other side is more rubbery and gives a lot more.
Any idea what type of boot I should get, as I won't know what material it's made of until I get it? Are universal ones better? I was thinking about getting a kit with cone and lube to slide boot over cone and joint? Suppose those type of boots are very flexible.
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I have a diagnosis - at least a most likely cause diagnosis. Not an easy one this. Took it to my usual MOT centre and they put it on the MOT ramps and gave the front wheels a workout with the shaker (what a tool that is!). Then lots of looking, rattling wheel/spring, levering, look under bonnet. Then more levering and another go on the shaker. Definitely not ball joint (no movement in it), AR bar or bushes. Was in there 20 mins.
Said it's feels like it's high up, so most likely top strut mount. I realise it's a difficult thing to positively identify, due to location/access. Think it was a process of elimination.
If the strut mount, is it ok to drive and do they fail, causing death and destruction? Or just do it ASAP?
What do I replace? Just the bearing, or the big metal plate that holds it all together - or both?
FYI - the spring on strut is 18 months old, but rest of strut is original - 19 years old/108,000 miles.
Said it's feels like it's high up, so most likely top strut mount. I realise it's a difficult thing to positively identify, due to location/access. Think it was a process of elimination.
If the strut mount, is it ok to drive and do they fail, causing death and destruction? Or just do it ASAP?
What do I replace? Just the bearing, or the big metal plate that holds it all together - or both?
FYI - the spring on strut is 18 months old, but rest of strut is original - 19 years old/108,000 miles.
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It's generally the bearing part that fails but you never really know until its all off to inspect it. But generally the bearing will be noisy so if no noise it's likely its the rubber.
They don't usually fail suddenly or dramatically, but it has happened. Definitely sooner than later but if its only light play it shouldn't be critical for a bit.
As for cv boots the stretchy universal ones are good, but they come in a range of sizes so get 1 that's right sized. If using a cone, use silicone on it to help the boot slide. Can be very tough if they grab and not slide. I think it's First line or mafco I use for them (but don't use first line for much else)
Do NOT use the split boots that glue together. Total waste of time and energy
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Not fully true. No specific area of test, but comes under suspension mounting/bush.
It does have to be bad and excessive to warrant a fail though
| (c) A shock absorber bush excessively worn | Major |
| (a) A spring: (i) insecurely attached to chassis or axle (ii) with fixings loose to the extent that relative movement is visible | Major Dangerous |
Not what my inspector told me, and my bearing was really bad..
No drama at all, they are very progressive and the worst that can happen is the steering feel becomes clunky.
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He could also fail it under a manually raised fault ( not specifically covered in the manual) and label it as Dangerous to drive if he felt it was that bad.
Did he put it as an advisory item even ?
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Have you ever changed changed such a bearing? I have...
The strut centre bolt also has to fail, and/or the three turret bolts too, for the strut top to detach..
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Yes. And had 2 struts totally fall out the housing, allowing 1 wheel to lean out at around 45%.
Not common, but will try and find you a picture
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Not true sorry
We will have to agree to disagree, because the only way they can fail dangerously and catastrophically, is for the top of the strut to force its way through the top of the turret/inner wing.
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I'm only a mechanic and mot tester so yes we will have to disagree
Did mine last week as said earlier, the noise (of the spring jamming and freeing as described by Harry) was certainly disconcerting. When I googled it there was suggestion that ignoring it could result in the spring snapping.
I replaced both parts as it was only £20.
Not too bad a DIY job but you'll need coil spring compressor and possibly an impact wrench to remove the strut nut - personally I don't have much luck with those splines in the piston!
I replaced both parts as it was only £20.
Not too bad a DIY job but you'll need coil spring compressor and possibly an impact wrench to remove the strut nut - personally I don't have much luck with those splines in the piston!
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