Personal opinion here so don't bother chastising me
I've come across lots of plasterboard mounted boxes where the "electrician" has made a mess of cutting the plasterboard holes which results in the boxes being very insecure. This then results in the sockets of switches being unable to pull up tight to the wall surface. Plus, because the box flange sits on the face of the plasterboard, the socket or switch cannot sit tight to the wall. The flange design (sharp corners or round corners) determines the final shape of the socket or switch - otherwise it looks a right mess.
If you have access to the studs before the plasterboard is fitted then it makes sense to fit metal boxes to the studs. Either fit a backing plate of wood between studs at the desired location and mount the box to this, or fit the box into a "corner" between a vertical member and a cross batten. allow the box to project beyond the studding by the plasterboard thickness and it will end up flush with the board outer skin.
Nothing could be simpler or neater and the final device can then mount flush to the plasterboard with total security and no unsightly box flange showing. After all, first fix has to happen before the boarding goes up so why not fit metal boxes to the studding. Unless of course the "leccy" has no pride in doing a proper job.
I've come across lots of plasterboard mounted boxes where the "electrician" has made a mess of cutting the plasterboard holes which results in the boxes being very insecure. This then results in the sockets of switches being unable to pull up tight to the wall surface. Plus, because the box flange sits on the face of the plasterboard, the socket or switch cannot sit tight to the wall. The flange design (sharp corners or round corners) determines the final shape of the socket or switch - otherwise it looks a right mess.
If you have access to the studs before the plasterboard is fitted then it makes sense to fit metal boxes to the studs. Either fit a backing plate of wood between studs at the desired location and mount the box to this, or fit the box into a "corner" between a vertical member and a cross batten. allow the box to project beyond the studding by the plasterboard thickness and it will end up flush with the board outer skin.
Nothing could be simpler or neater and the final device can then mount flush to the plasterboard with total security and no unsightly box flange showing. After all, first fix has to happen before the boarding goes up so why not fit metal boxes to the studding. Unless of course the "leccy" has no pride in doing a proper job.