My recent Project... I built it myself!!

[Dave9]

why not join myself and ban in not replying to him any more

well that's nice, thanks for that.

I just hope whenever you need advice on a any subject your not familiar with people will put you down like the way you do to me.
Stop insulting people's intelligence you ignorant sod.

You'll get knowhere in life thriving weaknesses off other people.

I understand that fact you won't help me because electricity is dangerous & you don't want to provide advice thinking i'll do myself harm, but listen... I have read every word people have posted here, i did exactly what they instructed me to do, i've ordered all the ip65 casing, i am about to re-wire my relay with 3-core wire - all that will be inside the casing safe as houses... So why do you refuse to help me when i listened to you & did exactly what needs to be done... i really do not understand people anymore.

 

[Dave9]

It's not doing it's job unless you make sure you connect the fittings earth to the supply earth......

That's what I meant - the earth's running from the plug's all joined to a metal plate inside the ip55 case.



ALSO - Re your heater:

Does your aquarium heater not have a thermostat in it as mine does?? If the light heats the water as you think it does, the heater stat will turn off - job done. Once the light goes off, and the tank temp falls, the heater will come on......you are over complicating things.

yeh true, that would be alot easier & yes my heater has a thermostat... however the reason was to cut the electricity completly off until the light's go off, why? well it's 2kW & i dont want it to come on during the day.

If there was a high call for the circuits you are trying to build, they would be easily found in aquarium shops etc........THEY ARE NOT.

So what your saying its impossible? ... You & even I know thats not true.

It is rare that I advice someone to stop messing with lecky.......but with you I feel I must.

The pics you post are poorly constructed even as a temporary 'experiement'. And the lack of knowledge of earthing is highly dangerous.

If you read my post I said that I wouldn't switch it on till i knew it was 100% safe, now that i know it needs a earth - i will be fitting a earth.

The type of light fitting you have will no-doubt have a large 'ballest' incorporating an inductor, ignitor and a PF capacitor. These items are usually fitted to a metal tray, with atleast the inductor being of metal contruction. Not having an earth for these items IS HIGHLY DANGEROUS.

The light is seperate to the relay isnt it?
my light came pre-wired, im not fiddling with that i am simply making a relay for it... & yes it is earthed.

Are you also aware of the type of voltage that the control circuit will produce? Greater than 1000v at times.

no. but thanks for telling me that (not sarcastic) im being serious, the more info & help i get, the better understanding i will have on electricity... thanks for that.

You keep mentioning earthing metal plates etc...what for?? Are you going to by a metal plate, and try to use this as an earth - I truly am lost?? You say you have an earth from the ES lamp holder to the choke - so what? Where else does this earth wire go??

No - the "pre wired light" has a earth wire running from the ballast to the e40 holder back plate.... do u want a pic of it? ... i dont mind taking it.

What are you on about with 'tubing' (sorry can't remember the exact term you used)? Why do you feel you need to tube the cabling??

I wanted to tube the wiring cause this relay is going to be in a humid condition, i thought if i buy some water proof tubing it would be safer.

I am sorry, it is rare for me, I suggest you send the items back, and purchase the correct items for the job that are simply ''plug and play''.

Well not all of us are made of money my friend - i choose to do itself for the sake of saving money i havent got.

Not normally as direct and as irritated by posts, but this really takes the biscuit.

Please do tell me what's so irritating seeking advice?

 

[Spark123]

Please can you post a picture of the information on the relay?
From what I can see on your previous picture it says AC Relay, 12V 250mA Made in China?

 

[Dave9]

From what I can see on your previous picture it says AC Relay, 12V 250mA Made in China?

yes, that's exactly what it says.

 

[Lectrician]

A timer, intended to switch larger inductive loads will be cheaper than a relay, base, enclosure, flex, plug tops, trailing extension socket, gland etc.


I am still not convinced that a relay will not weld it's contacts shut if the timers have with this load.


I am not saying the circuit is impossible - of course it will work - I just don't see the point, and obviously nor do the shops...


How about a photo of the tank set up - I am expecting something huge from the way you describe...

 

[Spark123]

If it is 12V then you can't plug it into the mains 240v.

I also must say that your realy (it is not a contactor) will probably also fry shut switching a large inductive load - as your timer no doubt did. You need an AC3 contactor.

Yup, I think it will fry a relay as well.
Do the sodium(?) lights come with plugs fitted? I ask as I have been shocked by sodium lights on plugs before as iirc they take time for the voltage to collapse once unplugged.

 

[Steve]

Flex is waterproof. Tubing does nothing to protect it from water. Even if properly sealed at both ends . . . dont go there. As long as the light is protected to a sufficient standard, and the flex is sealed where it enters the light, if necessary.

Do you have economy7? if not, there is no cost saving to only having the heater on at nights. If no eco7, your lecky bill is divided up into 2 tarrifs by working out the first so many KWHs at a lower rate, then charging the rest at full wack.

 

[Dave9]

If it is 12V then you can't plug it into the mains 240v.

Sweet !!!

I also must say that your realy (it is not a contactor) will probably also fry shut switching a large inductive load - as your timer no doubt did. You need an AC3 contactor.

Yup, I think it will fry a relay as well.
Do the sodium(?) lights come with plugs fitted? I ask as I have been shocked by sodium lights on plugs before as iirc they take time for the voltage to collapse once unplugged.[/quote]

yeh when i bought my kit, i had a ballast (roughly bigger than a pc psu) & a kettle type lead.

a plug comes out of the ballast into the mains, then a a 3 core black lead runs from the ballast to the E40 fitting & the plate that holds the E40 - the earth is screwed to that.

I dont know much about iirc - but if i switch the light off & switch it back on, the ballast will make a ticking noise & the light doesnt light up... however you have to wait a few mins before you can start the light up after a shutdown.

 

[Spark123]

If it is manufacturered to have a plug on it shouldn't be a problem, the one I got shocked from was an install type with a plug fitted for ease of maintenance.
(iirc = if I remember correctly).

 

[Dave9]

Flex is waterproof. Tubing does nothing to protect it from water. Even if properly sealed at both ends . . . dont go there. As long as the light is protected to a sufficient standard, and the flex is sealed where it enters the light, if necessary.

Do you have economy7? if not, there is no cost saving to only having the heater on at nights. If no eco7, your lecky bill is divided up into 2 tarrifs by working out the first so many KWHs at a lower rate, then charging the rest at full wack.

ok thanks, well i might just order some flex wiring (the silver wire), that looks pretty strong wire & i want it to last...

jeez! i dont like the sound of that! lol
not sure which electricity plan im on, but i know i pay 7-8p kW & if i use a certain amount in a day i get a kW half price... & i have already tried switching over to npower, but my contract isnt up for another few months.

 

[Lectrician]

Just noticed the above - Your relay certainly does say 12v.

Umm, not only will it weld shut when trying to switch such a load, it will also go bang when it tries to move the contacts

I really think this has to be a wind up...





What type of lamp are we talking?? Bright white?? Metal Halide, High Pressure Mercury??

 

[Dave9]

What type of lamp are we talking?? Bright white?? Metal Halide, High Pressure Mercury??

Hps - High Pressure Sodium

also people build these contactor's all the time & they even sell them in shops. 2 forums i know of use the same relay as the one i have & some have had problems like not switching off, but some have no problems whatsoever.

I'm just getting mixed messages from both worlds - i'll forgot about adding the a circuit to kick in my heater- too much hassle.
However i will still be trying to make this work, i have all the necessary info to make this work (thanks to you lot) & i should just go ahead & try it out.

(yes i will add earth before i try it out)

 

[Lectrician]

The 12 volt relay will go bang.

The contacts will eventually weld shut.

What type of tank wants a bright orange/yellow light then??

 

[Spark123]

also people build these contactor's all the time & they even sell them in shops. 2 forums i know of use the same relay as the one i have & some have had problems like not switching off, but some have no problems whatsoever.

Can't see how you are getting mixed messages, the relay coil is 12VAC and the mains supply is 240VAC. If you intend to use 240VAC to power a relay coil you need to buy a 240VAC relay, or even better buy a 240VAC contactor.
These relays may physically look the same, but they are electrically different.

 

[Dave9]

Can't see how you are getting mixed messages, the relay coil is 12VAC and the mains supply is 240VAC. If you intend to use 240VAC to power a relay coil you need to buy a 240VAC relay, or even better buy a 240VAC contactor.
These relays may physically look the same, but they are electrically different.

damn it, i bought the wrong one, you are right I shouldn't of bought a 12V relay instead i should of bought a "230v 8 Pin Ac Relay 2 Pole".

Thanks for pointing that out - you've helped me alot