Granted they're not old, I have three combi's installed, 2016, 2018 and 2020. No issues so far bar the 2020 one which recently developed a leak, fixed under warranty.
New boiler advice, standard or combi
- Thread starter neza
- Start date
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There are an absolute raft of levels of improvements you can make to heating systems, to make the system more efficient, and improve comfort for yourself.
Last time around, I installed a fancy system, which was able to calculate and predict precisely how much heat it needed to generate, to match the heat loss. It measures actual temperatures, instead of the on/off demand. Instead of firing flat out, until it hit the desired temperatures, it just provides a steady variable output. It avoids the temperature swings and the creaking of pipes too, as the heating goes on and off..
Agreed, but C-plan is where I'd start. I'd guess a motorised valve in the HW pipe would be needed for any scheme.
By adding a pipe-stat on the CH pipe, and a relay, he could have variable CH temperature control, trimmed manually by season if not going for full weather comp.
Wow thanks for the reply sorry I have not responded, work and personal issues got in the way....
In general and hoping to answer most comments here iam not bothered about the space ie removing cylinder.
My issue is that my current system is 30 years old, boiler hasn't missed a beat as it's well serviced but flue has now corroded and can't get a service plan and parts.are becoming scarce. Also as my cylinder and loft tank are over 30 years old I am worried about corrosion there and springing a leak, plus the hot water pump I have fitted is over 10 years old. After reading all these comments it seams 50/50 wether to switch to a combi or not.
If I just replaced my heat only boiler, like for like how long can I expect to get.out of.my cylinder and salamander pump before they fail....
Just wanted to add at this time of year ie the summer my boiler fires up for 45 mins in the morning and 45 mins at 5pm and that normally covers all our water requirments unless the Mrs is doing a lot of cleaning lol.
I have enclosed a.picture of current set up with pump in airing cupboard.
In general and hoping to answer most comments here iam not bothered about the space ie removing cylinder.
My issue is that my current system is 30 years old, boiler hasn't missed a beat as it's well serviced but flue has now corroded and can't get a service plan and parts.are becoming scarce. Also as my cylinder and loft tank are over 30 years old I am worried about corrosion there and springing a leak, plus the hot water pump I have fitted is over 10 years old. After reading all these comments it seams 50/50 wether to switch to a combi or not.
If I just replaced my heat only boiler, like for like how long can I expect to get.out of.my cylinder and salamander pump before they fail....
Just wanted to add at this time of year ie the summer my boiler fires up for 45 mins in the morning and 45 mins at 5pm and that normally covers all our water requirments unless the Mrs is doing a lot of cleaning lol.
I have enclosed a.picture of current set up with pump in airing cupboard.
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Is the loft tank plastic or galvanised steel? What colour insulation does the cylinder have?
Your pump will run until worn out, but is a quick, easy swap in an open vented system, which anyone could do. Not really worth consideration.
Loft tank plastic, cylinder green it's old so greenish yellow if that helps.
Greenish I think is the most recent, yellow older. If there are no leaks, no reason not to reuse it. Mine is yellow, I improved the insulation of mine, with an old winter bed quilt. It made a surprising difference.
I installed my (edit) yellow HW cylinder (looks quite similar to yours) in 1999 and it's been fine since then.
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Cylinder will last as long as the hills - open vented lagged copper cylinder - as long as the CH system is clean and you're not plagued with hard water then it should last as long as you need it.
Pump - who knows - again hard water is their nemesis, that and the seals wear out - I have had brass/metal impeller pumps last 15-20 years.
Plastic Cold Water cistern (CWSC) again should last as long as it's needed - just needs a good bylaw kit with lid and again no hard water. Clean it out as and when the sediment calls for it.
Your airing cupboard looks all nice and tidy - pipework good - pump and couplers clean etc, air separator clean, nothing in there to cause concern so that's (edit)all good.
Just another good quality HO/Reg boiler should be all that's needed.
Pump - who knows - again hard water is their nemesis, that and the seals wear out - I have had brass/metal impeller pumps last 15-20 years.
Plastic Cold Water cistern (CWSC) again should last as long as it's needed - just needs a good bylaw kit with lid and again no hard water. Clean it out as and when the sediment calls for it.
Your airing cupboard looks all nice and tidy - pipework good - pump and couplers clean etc, air separator clean, nothing in there to cause concern so that's (edit)all good.
Just another good quality HO/Reg boiler should be all that's needed.
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@neza,
If a service company (BG?) is telling you that they can't get bits and so you might want to get a new boiler/system, just bear in mind that they are not handing out free advice. It's likely a sales pitch. Do you want any work performing by people like that?
I'd agree that my current house should never have had a combination fitted (low mains flow) but that was what BG did. My previous properties has combination boilers with better mains flow, but they are still limiting - only one outlet at a time.
You deffo wan't to find an independent heating engineer and see what they say about repair vs replace. Talk to them about your requirements and see what they recommend. If they want to slap something on the wall without looking into it properly, then maybe avoid?
If a service company (BG?) is telling you that they can't get bits and so you might want to get a new boiler/system, just bear in mind that they are not handing out free advice. It's likely a sales pitch. Do you want any work performing by people like that?
I'd agree that my current house should never have had a combination fitted (low mains flow) but that was what BG did. My previous properties has combination boilers with better mains flow, but they are still limiting - only one outlet at a time.
You deffo wan't to find an independent heating engineer and see what they say about repair vs replace. Talk to them about your requirements and see what they recommend. If they want to slap something on the wall without looking into it properly, then maybe avoid?
Hi D,
Changing the boiler is a bit of a lottery, but I'll have to jump once this one plays up.
C
Hi M,
When I last flushed and inhibited the water, I took the water tank outside and cleaned it out the best I could. I emptied and cleaned the cold water tanks, which are covered and insulated. Not a pretty sight!
When it was installed, the plumber only used one pipe to the cold water tanks, so it's difficult to get all of the bubbles out, so I use a car oil vacuum pump to do that.
Pump is original and under the floor, gumbed up with hession and bosswhite, so it wouldn't be easy to change.
I think a fair bit of heat escapes, so not as efficient as it could be, but a warmer house.
C
Hi F,
Thanks for your research, interesting.
There is a roomstat in the hall, and thermostatic valves on all rads.
I probably don't use it in the most efficient way, but in the warmer weather I just press the boost buttons and it warms up the bathwater.
C.
D
Deleted member 294929
They make them so no.
D
Deleted member 294929
Heat only boiler with unvented cylinder.
Frees up your loft. Possibly no more water pipes in the loft.
Back up immersion heater when boiler packs up.
Less to go wrong. When a pump or 2 port go tit's up, you won't have to pay out costly manufacturers parts.
Depends on how good your incoming mains pressure is.
Frees up your loft. Possibly no more water pipes in the loft.
Back up immersion heater when boiler packs up.
Less to go wrong. When a pump or 2 port go tit's up, you won't have to pay out costly manufacturers parts.
Depends on how good your incoming mains pressure is.
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