New Boiler Fitted All Radiators Hot But Strange Issue

[Bsociable2]

As mentioned in another thread, I call this the "Spinal Tap" method of system design (or lack of).



OP, set the boiler parameter d.0 to 12 and see if that helps.

Dan sorry to be a pain but how would we do this? We only have a water flow temperature display on our boiler.

 

[Dan Robinson]

all those reply written in the time it took me to write above post, bloody ipad keyboard

And that's why Android is better .


OP - nothing difficult in changing those settings - its all in the manual. Change them yourself and basque in glory when your other half comes back to a warm house.

 

[Bsociable2]

yes, over sizing boilers is very misguided..and with respect what do you know about heating technology?

most pros calculate boiler size as 1kw per radiator and 1 for the pipe work... even that over sizes a fair bit.

as said upgrading to vaillants controls will resolve the issue...where in London are you...

As you can see we know nothing about heating technology lol. We are in the Frimley area of Surrey.

 

[Dan Robinson]

As mentioned in another thread, I call this the "Spinal Tap" method of system design (or lack of).



OP, set the boiler parameter d.0 to 12 and see if that helps.

Dan sorry to be a pain but how would we do this? We only have a water flow temperature display on our boiler.

Here you go:

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously.

Keep the “+” button pressed until “d.0” is displayed

Press the “i” button. The “=” symbol is displayed. The
part load setting is now displayed in kW.

Use the “+” and “–” buttons to increase or decrease
the value in steps of 1 kW. The displayed value will
flash while the adjustment procedure is being carried
out. The available ranges of settings are given in Table
5.2.

Push the “i” button for about five seconds, or until the
display stops flashing. The value is now saved to memory.

The display will now return to its normal state
(current heating system flow temperature, e.g. 45 °C).

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously to cancel
adjustment mode.

Adjustment mode is also cancelled if no button is
operated for a period of 4 minutes

 

[Bsociable2]

all those reply written in the time it took me to write above post, bloody ipad keyboard

And that's why Android is better .


OP - nothing difficult in changing those settings - its all in the manual. Change them yourself and basque in glory when your other half comes back to a warm house.

Ha ha if it works it will so be worth it. Thanks again x

 

[Dan Robinson]

After all this I will pish myself laughing if it turns out to be summut else

 

[Dan Robinson]

OP - it is worth familiarising yourself with the S codes on page 41 (I think).


What you don't want to be seeing is lots of S.53. Rather s.5 where the boiler is running - and thusly matching its output to the load placed on it by the house.

 

[Bsociable2]

As mentioned in another thread, I call this the "Spinal Tap" method of system design (or lack of).



OP, set the boiler parameter d.0 to 12 and see if that helps.

Dan sorry to be a pain but how would we do this? We only have a water flow temperature display on our boiler.

Here you go:

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously.

Keep the “+” button pressed until “d.0” is displayed

Press the “i” button. The “=” symbol is displayed. The
part load setting is now displayed in kW.

Use the “+” and “–” buttons to increase or decrease
the value in steps of 1 kW. The displayed value will
flash while the adjustment procedure is being carried
out. The available ranges of settings are given in Table
5.2.

Push the “i” button for about five seconds, or until the
display stops flashing. The value is now saved to memory.

The display will now return to its normal state
(current heating system flow temperature, e.g. 45 °C).

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously to cancel
adjustment mode.

Adjustment mode is also cancelled if no button is
operated for a period of 4 minutes

Damn!! Hubby got in before I got a chance to have my five minutes of fame and glory. He is asking if you say to try this because you think the radiators are cooling down when the boiler is off? This is not the case they are constantly hot.

 

[JulianP]

Ok, obviously the boiler is over sized and thus not suited for the installation and almost certainly not set-up correctly by the fitter.

However the OP states that the rads are getting too hot to touch, so why is the house not getting warm compared with the old system. Surely there must be more to it than the heat given up to the room from the old boiler?

Julian

 

[Bsociable2]

As mentioned in another thread, I call this the "Spinal Tap" method of system design (or lack of).



OP, set the boiler parameter d.0 to 12 and see if that helps.

Dan sorry to be a pain but how would we do this? We only have a water flow temperature display on our boiler.

Here you go:

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously.

Keep the “+” button pressed until “d.0” is displayed

Press the “i” button. The “=” symbol is displayed. The
part load setting is now displayed in kW.

Use the “+” and “–” buttons to increase or decrease
the value in steps of 1 kW. The displayed value will
flash while the adjustment procedure is being carried
out. The available ranges of settings are given in Table
5.2.

Push the “i” button for about five seconds, or until the
display stops flashing. The value is now saved to memory.

The display will now return to its normal state
(current heating system flow temperature, e.g. 45 °C).

Press the “i” and “+” buttons simultaneously to cancel
adjustment mode.

Adjustment mode is also cancelled if no button is
operated for a period of 4 minutes






Says in the book we don't need to do this as it has an automatic setting??

 

[Dean744PiN5]

No were not saying to try this because we think the rads are getting cool, it is because your boiler is oversized and going into anti-cycling it needs to be matched to the output of the system.
Try this to get a rough idea of how many kw's your house needs, and post the results please.
http://www.idhee.org.uk/calculator.html

 

[Dan Robinson]

If the rads are hot then the boiler has done its job.

fi it is taking ages for the rads to get hot then try changing the settings as discussed.

If that doesn't help, post back and we can take it from there.

Right now, if your installer is being a muppet you need to start with the simple and obvious things. It gives you more leverage later if needed.

We are suggesting changing the setting to stop the boiler running away with itself and putting too much heat into the system too quickly


Don't remember you saying if the rads are new or not?

 

[Bsociable2]

Thank you again for replying.

Rads my hubby tell me are getting hot within 10 minutes and stay hot but my house is bloody freezing. Rads were not replaced at the time of the new boiler installation. the installer did however do a power flush. Tempin house at the moment at will not go above 19C but will probably warm up tonight. It does seem to get warmer in the evening rather than during the day for some reason.

Dan did you see my message about the boiler saying the settings were automatic?

 

[ALEC1]

yes the very new boiler does auto range rate, that is as the return temperature rises so the gas rates stops rising...however perhaps the installer changed this...but who knows.. the only way to find out is to see what it is set at by following dans instructions..

 

[Dean744PiN5]

I get the feeling that since hubby has come home he has discredited all the sound advice that has been given as rubbish seeing as you haven't actually tried anything suggested