New boiler nightmare

All that is wired to do is shut down the flow to the cylinder when the cylinder stat is satisfied- if it isn't back to the wiring centre then there will be no switching to/from the boiler/programmer. So it'll just be power in to the junction box, out to the stat and then a switched live out to the 2 port to activate. No reason it can't be wired to the rest of the system

Putting in a wireless programmer won't fix any of that, it will only control the CH, the cylinder stat and 2 port need to be interconnected hence the cabling required.
It is an installation standard that an interlock is provided and that would require all that to be cabled up properly, he hasn't done that basic requirement either. Are you down south, if so then that install would also fall under the boiler plus regulations, which also covers the interlock requirement.

He really has tried to pull a fast one - Bodgeit and Dash Heating Services - by the sounds of it.
 
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He has proposed putting in a wireless cylinder stat instead of running a cable to the wiring centre.
Still won't correct the HW 2 port valve not being connected to the wiring centre. It should be programmer > cyl stat > 2 port switched live to the boiler when HW demand. So just as well running a cable to put it all together.
Unless I'm missing something, there is no motorised valve in the HW circuit
1724965342792.png :unsure: ;)
 
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I thought that was the whole point of the wireless thermostat kit - to enable remote switching of the 2 port DHW valve.
 
enable remote switching of the 2 port DHW valve
Ah ok, yes, I stand corrected, now that I think about it, I believe the wireless cylinder stat kit also comes with a wireless switched relay and that will be what controls the 2 port.

Much easier to run a cable though I wouldn't have thought??
 
More or less resolved at last!

We got a company in to do the powerflush and then the plumber returned and fitted a wireless system, which enable hot water and heating to be controlled independently. The Gas Safe Register inspection threw up some minor issues which the plumber also addressed and he reduced his bill by £500 as a contribution towards the cost of flushing.

So my mother finally has a safe, working system, albeit with one minor issue remaining: the F&E tank overflows each time the heating kicks in. Can I fix this simply by adjusting the ballcock to lower the water level in the tank?
 
So my mother finally has a safe, working system, albeit with one minor issue remaining: the F&E tank overflows each time the heating kicks in. Can I fix this simply by adjusting the ballcock to lower the water level in the tank?
Nope, unless there's far too much water in the cistern to start with. If not then that's usually either a pump setting and it's pumping over or restricted pipework and the system's backing up into the F&E cistern. When the system isn't running where is the water level in the cistern?

TBH, he really should be sorting that out too.
 
Yes, I did wonder about that. That was with the pump on fastest setting.......I'll check the level when I go later in the week.
 

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