New CU & Supply type

[JohnD]

electrocution & facing the wrath of the DNO.

"Or"

 

[pcboffinuk]

Hi Fred, hows Wilma.

My dads mate is a time served spark but is not Part P certified. He knows what he's doing and would be able to do anything i wasn't to keen or sure of doing. I had thought that you had to get a part P certified spark to do the works or can you do all the work and get it tested/certifed by Building control before getting the Lectric board to move the meter tails.

Teahead, this is a common misconception - There is plenty on Part P elsewhere on the forum, but anyone can do electrical work. If you are not registered as competent with one of the Part P schemes then you must notify the Building Control before you start, and pay them to certify it as compliant when you are finished.

Note that they are only certifying it as compliant with Building Regulations so they may or may not carry out full testing or issue an electrical certificate as part of their service. Building Controls interpret the rules differently so it would be worth a call to your local one first.

Gavin

 

[scousespark]

I know this is a DIY site so most of the replies will be from non-sparks, but I'm staggered that there are replies that recomnend you 'just pull the fuse' or let it fall out. Switching off the CU should mean you have no current being drawn, but if you get it wrong any current will flow through you. I don't know how much you value your life mate.

 

[ELZ4742]

I know this is a DIY site so most of the replies will be from non-sparks, but I'm staggered that there are replies that recomnend you 'just pull the fuse' or let it fall out. Switching off the CU should mean you have no current being drawn, but if you get it wrong any current will flow through you. I don't know how much you value your life mate.

it was a presumption that he would indeed switch off the CU first..

 

[scousespark]

So you switch off the CU and this makes it safe to pull the fuse.
Most of the sparks I've worked with, myself included, are wary of pulling a main fuse because of the risks of arcing and also the fuse holder crumbling. You seldom get a second chance to get this wrong. It's also recommending you break into property not owned by the househaolder.

 

[Spark123]

You are correct, there is no accessable up line isolator which you can get at if there a problem occurs, it is also an offence under ESQCR to tamper with the DNO equipment.

 

[ELZ4742]

why would you get an arc if there was no load? however, i agree its not advisable for an amature to attempt but i am surprised that you being a spark wouldnt do it.

do you have an advert in your local rag saying something like this?

"electrician, full rewires, extra garden lights etc... no fuse board changes though."



if you call the board and notify, your within your right to do it.

 

[Spark123]

why would you get an arc if there was no load? however, i agree its not advisable for an amature to attempt but i am surprised that you being a spark wouldnt do it.

do you have an advert in your local rag saying something like this?

"electrician, full rewires, extra garden lights etc... no fuse board changes though."



if you call the board and notify, your within your right to do it.

I wouldn't do it because I don't need to do it. I have access to all the circuits that I need access to at my place of work.
Afaik it is only if you obtain the distribution network operators permission that you can pull their fuse.

 

[scousespark]

I never said I don't pull fuses, just that it's something to be wary of.
A better option would be to get the DNO to fit an Isolator, which makes it easier switching the CU.

The OP does not seem to be under time pressure and this could save his life.

 

[ELZ4742]

why would you get an arc if there was no load? however, i agree its not advisable for an amature to attempt but i am surprised that you being a spark wouldnt do it.

do you have an advert in your local rag saying something like this?

"electrician, full rewires, extra garden lights etc... no fuse board changes though."



if you call the board and notify, your within your right to do it.

I wouldn't do it because I don't need to do it. I have access to all the circuits that I need access to at my place of work.
Afaik it is only if you obtain the distribution network operators permission that you can pull their fuse.

but with regards to domestic properties, what are you supposed to do? i dont think many sparks could afford to dick around waiting for someone else to pull the fuse. and besides, i did say that

@ paul, jus with ya messin mate

 

[Spark123]

I did not say wait for the DNO to pull the fuse, I said "afaik it is only if you obtain the distribution network operators permission that you can pull their fuse." If you don't gain their consent then pulling the fuse/breaking the seal can be looked upon as an offence under the ESQCR.

 

[ELZ4742]

I did not say wait for the DNO to pull the fuse, I said "afaik it is only if you obtain the distribution network operators permission that you can pull their fuse." If you don't gain their consent then pulling the fuse/breaking the seal can be looked upon as an offence under the ESQCR.

wasnt having a go sir, just sayin what a domestic sparks would usually do. i agree whole heartidly with what you are saying
in fact, i concur.... lol.

 

[FredFlintstone]

I know this is a DIY site so most of the replies will be from non-sparks, but I'm staggered that there are replies that recomnend you 'just pull the fuse' or let it fall out. Switching off the CU should mean you have no current being drawn, but if you get it wrong any current will flow through you. I don't know how much you value your life mate.

To be fair Paul, I don't think anyone's actually recommending I do it - they're just warning of the dangers. I do have time constraints unfortunately and ccan't really wait the six weeks until they can fit an isolator. I can't cover up any of my work until BC come and inspect which basically means I can't plaster my kitchen, hall or bathroom, which means I can't start to fit my kitchen when it arrives in two weeks (although it'll be a sitting around a while after delivery anyway) and I can't rip out the old bath suite (before re-plastering) and fit a new one or tile the shower cubicle which I need to do before I rip out the old suite.

Basically, progress of the house (which is slow enough as it is) depends on being able to complete the electrics before continuing with anything else. There are other things I can do before completing the electrics but they'll be done within two weeks.

Don't get me wrong - I'd much rather do CU with an isolator fitted but as long as I know what to be aware of thn I should stand a bit of a better chance.

 

[FredFlintstone]

If you are careful, confident (but not over confident) and can read and follow instructions from a book there is no reason why you couldn't handle changing a CU, although the sticking point will be doing the testing.

If you say BC will be inspecting it then they may well send in a spark to test things, and possibly even provide a certificate, although the problem will come if anything fails.

Because changing a CU affects all the existing circuits it means that ideally all the tests should be done on all the circuits, and if your existing cabling is poor then there may be problems there.

I'm not trying to put you off, just warn you of the pitfalls.

I don't know how much you know about electrics, but the fact you have identified it as a T-N-S shows you know more than the average DIYer. If you don't have one already, the IEE On Site Guide would be a very worthwhile purchase and should tell you almost everything you need to know and at about £17 shouldn't break the bank.

Cheers Gavin,

I know enough about electrics to be confident enough to add to a ring, install a new ring, add a radial (for the fridge and freezer) and to sort out lighting circuits (although lighting does still confuse the hell out of me!). I also know it kills and to be careful and take it slowly and check everything over for a second time.

I know that fitting a new CU can highlight existing problems that never surfaced before but just got to hope that if that happens I can trace the faults myself.

The existing wiring was pretty poor - come old cables were crumbling to bits. The whole installation had been notched in the joists so I went round and drilled through joists where I could. Where it wasn't possible I fitted armour plates over the notches. Hopefully the wiring now will be good enough.

Testing is a problem because I don't have the right equipment but I will be getting a periodic inspection done when finished.

Cheers for the recommendation on the book. I've done a shedload of research before starting this but will keep ny eyes open for the book - I'm sure it will come in useful.

 

[FredFlintstone]

It does sound like TN-S, can you borrow an earth fault loop impedance tester and check the external loop impedance?

I've got a mate who may be able to borrow some equipment from a mate but it's one of those things that may never materialise.

I wouldn't mind testing as much as possible before changing the CU but don't think that will be possible. I may just have to hope no problems surface.