New garage light fitting tripping

[Monkey789]

Firstly all the loose conductors need to be insulated ,preferably in six individual connector blocks. If you don't have any then temporarily use insulation tape. Then see if light comes on without tripping breaker.
Secondly ,we can't see if the cables are as you say they are. But if you are correct ,the light should come on ,and stay on ,if you insulate all the other conductors. We can then tell you how to connect the rest.
Do you have a multimeter ??

Ok thanks.

When I connect the supply cable, the light does come on fine. But it stays on. When I connect up the switch cable, it trips.

So at the moment (as per the picture) the light is on. How do I connect the switch up?

Appreciate your help.

 

[Monkey789]

Firstly all the loose conductors need to be insulated ,preferably in six individual connector blocks. If you don't have any then temporarily use insulation tape. Then see if light comes on without tripping breaker.
Secondly ,we can't see if the cables are as you say they are. But if you are correct ,the light should come on ,and stay on ,if you insulate all the other conductors. We can then tell you how to connect the rest.
Do you have a multimeter ??

oh and when you say conductors, you just mean the loose cables? They’re loose at the moment just to show you what I’m looking at.

No multimeter!

 

[terryplumb]

You are going to need a junction box to do this properly ,as I doubt the fitting has space to accommodate all the conductors ,but if you have terminal connector strips they will do for now ,do you have any ?
The black conductor in the switch cable should have a bit of red tape or red sleeve on it ,to denote it is switched live. Put that into the live terminal of the light fitting ,and remove the red one ( permanent live ) that is currently in there.
That permanent live ( red) goes into a third terminal block ,together with the red conductor of the switch cable.
The black neutral that is in the neutral terminal of the light fitting stays where it is.
The bare earth conductors must be sleeved in green/ yellow and go together In a fourth terminal block .
For now leave the other " conservatory " cable alone.

 

[terryplumb]

oh and when you say conductors, you just mean the loose cables? They’re loose at the moment just to show you what I’m looking at.

No multimeter!

OK.
Conductors are the individual wires ,bare copper/ sheathed in black or brown or blue or red each is a conductor ,just so we are on the same wavelength.

 

[Monkey789]

You are going to need a junction box to do this properly ,as I doubt the fitting has space to accommodate all the conductors ,but if you have terminal connector strips they will do for now ,do you have any ?
The black conductor in the switch cable should have a bit of red tape or red sleeve on it ,to denote it is switched live. Put that into the live terminal of the light fitting ,and remove the red one ( permanent live ) that is currently in there.
That permanent live ( red) goes into a third terminal block ,together with the red conductor of the switch cable.
The black neutral that is in the neutral terminal of the light fitting stays where it is.
The bare earth conductors must be sleeved in green/ yellow and go together In a fourth terminal block .
For now leave the other " conservatory " cable alone.

Pleased to report that it works!

Only issue I had was the limited space as you said inside the fitting. They’ve gone in fine, but it was a bit of a squeeze with the two additional terminal blocks. I assume this is ok? Not ideal.

I’ve managed to move the conservatory cable to a junction box I put in previously for a two security lights and it works too.

Switch works a treat though and I realised what I was doing wrong as I read your message.

Appreciate everyone’s help.

 

[Risteard]

The "unknown" third twin&earth may be supply to another lamp(s)

The Black ( or Blue ) from the Switch cable is NOT a Neutral, it is a Switched Live. If it is connected ( incorrectly ) to the real Neutral the switch short circuits Live to Neutral and hence the MCB trips.

The high current in the short circuit may have damaged the switch and it may fail in the near future.

View attachment 175046

It may also have damaged the circuit breaker. It's an example of not knowing what one is doing being dangerous.

Also LAP products should be unlawful to install.

 

[Monkey789]

It may also have damaged the circuit breaker. It's an example of not knowing what one is doing being dangerous.

Also LAP products should be unlawful to install.

I’m sure there was a time when you didn’t know what you were doing and learnt from mistakes.

I’m the first to admit when I’m out of my depth but I like to do things the correct way hence I asked on here. It’s called learning.

What’s so wrong with LAP products? I have a couple and not had any issues. I trusted them because they’re sold by a major retailer.

 

[bernardgreen]

I’m sure there was a time when you didn’t know what you were doing and learnt from mistakes.

This is true for many things where the results of mistakes are "acceptable" accidents. Learning some things by mistake can have un-acceptable results such as fatal injuries.

My first electrical experiments were with batteries and torch bulbs. A good way to learn how electicity and electrical circuits work.

 

[mic2876uk]

It still shocks me how many people don't photograph the old wiring before ripping everything out, especially when everyone has a camera in there pocket