K
kai
From January 1st 2016, does the switch fuse need to be of an all-metal construction??
New House, Service Head
- Thread starter wcavanagh
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Can you find some metal which will not burn?
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The first picture shows the typical array of switchgear where things have been added over the years. It's likely the black MEM unit (more or less central in the photo - it has multiple fuses inside) was the original, and the other individual switch-fuses have been added over the years, mostly 1960's & 1970's. It looks as though one or two may not be used for anything now, but can't be certain without more detail. The Contactum unit at the far left is much more recent. You have an old voltage-operated ELCB (Earth-Leakage Circuit Breaker - the black unit with the yellow button on it) into which power is being supplied at its top. I can't quite make it out, but it looks as though that might be older rubber-insulated cables entering it from through the hole in the back board. This whole lot is something of a mess, and presumably now it's all as one house you wouldn't want the separate meter either.
The second picture shows a more recent work and that certainly looks like T&E feeding the RCD on the right. You commented earlier that there were two meters inside the house - I don't see a second one in these pictures though.
The second picture shows a more recent work and that certainly looks like T&E feeding the RCD on the right. You commented earlier that there were two meters inside the house - I don't see a second one in these pictures though.
Thanks for the information.
One meter is outside as seen on my original post, in the white cupboard and this is the 2nd inside the house. So far this is all I can find. The house will be totally gutted soon, for full remodel and insulation, etc. I am hoping to get someone in to safely disconnect and provide a temp new CU at one end. So I can remove all old kit.
One meter is outside as seen on my original post, in the white cupboard and this is the 2nd inside the house. So far this is all I can find. The house will be totally gutted soon, for full remodel and insulation, etc. I am hoping to get someone in to safely disconnect and provide a temp new CU at one end. So I can remove all old kit.
I think Freddo's comment about the switch fuse in the cabinet being wired the wrong way round should be addressed more.
If he is correct (I'm sure he is) then it's another good reason to start again with that split concentric cable.
With the main switch off, the fuse holder should be dead, probably isn't in your case.
Where will the consumer unit be when the refurbishment takes place? If you put the cu within 3m of the meter position you won't even need the switch fuse.
Though a switch fuse can be handy for isolation - but more reassuring when the feed and load cables are the correct way round.
If he is correct (I'm sure he is) then it's another good reason to start again with that split concentric cable.
With the main switch off, the fuse holder should be dead, probably isn't in your case.
Where will the consumer unit be when the refurbishment takes place? If you put the cu within 3m of the meter position you won't even need the switch fuse.
Though a switch fuse can be handy for isolation - but more reassuring when the feed and load cables are the correct way round.
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How can the meters have worked independently of each other?
You need to re-connect the switchfuse if the incoming and outgoing cables are the wrong way round.
That Feed into the VOELCB looks like rubber (??) and the single insulated conductors are visible.
If the CU is within 3m of the meter, you won't need a switchfuse, just a DP switch, if you want the option to isolate.
You need to re-connect the switchfuse if the incoming and outgoing cables are the wrong way round.
That Feed into the VOELCB looks like rubber (??) and the single insulated conductors are visible.
If the CU is within 3m of the meter, you won't need a switchfuse, just a DP switch, if you want the option to isolate.
The whole set-up is very confusing. I wonder if that old meter is connected to a 2nd supply somehow? It used to be 2 houses but was knocked together some 10 years ago. But am I still finding things, like the council tax being set separate for both places. I have got a get battery for my meter so can test tomorrow isolating at different points to see. Indeed I agree it looks like old rubber cable. The new CU will be in the middle of the house to some 15m from the meter. Not decided on layout yet.
I think next stop is attic, as that split concentric don't seem to end up at either CU. I can see it go up the outside of the cottage in metal trunking then it goes into the loft.
I think next stop is attic, as that split concentric don't seem to end up at either CU. I can see it go up the outside of the cottage in metal trunking then it goes into the loft.
It seems possible that the IN cable connects to the OUT terminals, and the OUT cable connects to the IN terminals, which isn't a good idea because things within the switchfuse will be live all the time.
I wonder if the supply in the VOELCB trip pic was or still is overhead? Sort of got that 'look' about it.
I wonder if the supply in the VOELCB trip pic was or still is overhead? Sort of got that 'look' about it.
Any off peak storage heaters, anything like that?
Nothing, the house had oil central heating fitted, no electric heaters at all, other than a shower.
There is also a new looking SWA cable feeding the garage again it goes up the external wall into the attic and no sign of it inside at either CU. Yet power is working in garage. I am hoping to find some joins or something in the attic. Will take ladders over tomorrow for a look.
There is also a new looking SWA cable feeding the garage again it goes up the external wall into the attic and no sign of it inside at either CU. Yet power is working in garage. I am hoping to find some joins or something in the attic. Will take ladders over tomorrow for a look.
Yes.
I double checked the switch fuse wiring with the manufacturers instructions. (available online) More to make sure I had done it correctly! There is a risk of getting an electric shock to someone who is trying to remove/replace the fuse if the wiring is backwards.
Yes but go easy on the switch, they are somewhat fragile. I would recommend calling an electrician to carry out this 'simple' task as it's easy to get it wrong which can result in loose connections and burning/fire at the terminals. All the terminals must be checked for tightness to any cables that are disturbed or repositioned in any way.
Looking at your pictures, I would be putting money aside for a full rewire, especially if you are doing major remodelling. Spending money on a complete rewire will be money well spent, and could save a number of problems from arising in the future. It will also make future additions and alterations easier as the wiring would be installed to the current standards.
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