New Pump in Combi - but CH still not working ?

I understand X800 is faster and will remove lime but must be rinsed out thoroughly.

I have been a bit cautious about strong sytem cleaners as the rads are nearly 40 yrs old and I am afraid of causing pinholing. We did have to replace the rad in the living room a few years ago after it leaked.

How long should I leave X800 in if I am not using a power flushing kit ?
 
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Pinholeing is not result of cleaning systems. System sediment will block/ plug/ seal weaknesses in the system. When system is cleaned chemically or mechanically, these weaknesses start weeping.
 
How would I test for an airlock and overcome the problem ?

Any advice ?

Is it difficult or have I missed instructions in the FAQs somewhere ?

Thanks

To find out if you have a blockage or air lock, select the last radiator in the circuit (the one furtherest from the boiler) drain it and remove it. Remove the valve tails from each end of the radiator and fit a 1/2 FM X 15mm compression straight or elbow to each one, then fit a short piece of 15mm tube and refit the tails to the valves. Fit a hose pipe over one of the 15mm tubes and run it to outside drain. Now turn on the rad valve that has the hose fitted and you should get a good flow. You can maintain the pressure while you are doing this with the fill loop at the boiler. By flushing out both feeds to the radiator you will be able to tell by the force of water coming out whether you have any air or blockage in the system.
This is the way us old`uns used to do it before all these chemicals came about.

spraggo
 
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good idea

I will add:

some older radiator valves have the 3/4" BSP connection that is the same as a washing machine tap, and you can get a garden hose connector to fit. If you have this sort, no need to take the valves off so it's easier.
 
good idea

I will add:

some older radiator valves have the 3/4" BSP connection that is the same as a washing machine tap, and you can get a garden hose connector to fit. If you have this sort, no need to take the valves off so it's easier.


The problem is most of the 3/4" valves have a ball seating instead of a flat, believe me i`ve been there

spraggo
 
:confused:

My washing machine runs on radiator lockshields as I had some to spare

I know about the union ball seating, but the rubber washer on the hose takes care of it.
 
Hi John.
I don`t understand why you are making an issue of this, maybe the washing machine hose will suffice but then you still have to fit a hose to the washing machine hose long enough to run to outside?. In many cases where there is a radiator there is a carpet, sometimes a 1000 quids worth of Axminster. I was simply advising the OP the correct way to overcome this with the least chance of a leak, assuming that he had no spare radiator tails and if he hasn`t it is not rocket science to remove and remake an existing rad tail surely?. I did advise him to remove both tails in the event that one end could be 3/4" and the other 1/2". I can see another four pager coming up becuase I have not mentioned PTFE tape. ;) ;)

spraggo
 
my garden hose has a 3/4" bsp fitting to go on the bib tap, so it just seems the easiest thing to me. I didn't have to buy, remove or fit anything (apart from taking the rad off)

Maybe letmedoit has a similar garden hose?
 
my garden hose has a 3/4" bsp fitting to go on the bib tap, so it just seems the easiest thing to me. I didn't have to buy, remove or fit anything (apart from taking the rad off)

Maybe letmedoit has a similar garden hose?


A bib tap with a 3/4" BSP on the outlet?. that must be a one off. I fancy that you are in an argumentive mood tonight. Still it makes a change from the missus having ago at me. :LOL: :evil: :evil:
 
I bet somebody kicked his butt in a different thread. ;)
 

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