Newly installed motorized valve not working

[holty]

Wheres the earth on the motorised valves?

not all valves have an earth

 

[brian62c]

Very much appreciate your inputs, DBP and Matt1e. I've slightly led you astray with the photo, as I would have secured the long wires into the CH terminals under the clamp but as it's a work in progress/testing situation, that hasn't yet been done. Having said that, I would not have had the nous to cut the wires down, so that's something I will address.
The box was originally put in by the builders who 'renovated' the house some 15 years ago, before I lived here. From what you have both said, their electrical skills live up to the rest of their talents. I know their plumbing does. It seems every time I want to do anything around the house, I end up redoing some of their handiwork. What still astounds me is that the local council's buildings inspector passed all their work
I had a plumber out a few years back to sort something out and he did some rewiring in the JB (don't know what) as he said something was not right.
It may be I will have to bite the bullet and get a professional in to sort it. Having said that, it did seem to be working fine until my latest efforts. I believe if I can get to the bottom of the actuator not working for the HW, then all should be well. Am I being a little naive?
One thing I've been wondering - if I do end up getting a qualified person in to sort the JB, would I be better getting a plumber who does electrics or an electrician? Would the latter understand the plumbing aspects of it properly?
Cheers.
B.

 

[brian62c]

Very much appreciate your inputs, DBP and Matt1e. I've slightly led you astray with the photo, as I would have secured the long wires into the CH terminals under the clamp but as it's a work in progress/testing situation, that hasn't yet been done. Having said that, I would not have had the nous to cut the wires down, so that's something I will address.
The box was originally put in by the builders who 'renovated' the house some 15 years ago, before I lived here. From what you have both said, their electrical skills live up to the rest of their talents. I know their plumbing does. It seems every time I want to do anything around the house, I end up redoing some of their handiwork. What still astounds me is that the local council's buildings inspector passed all their work
I had a plumber out a few years back to sort something out and he did some rewiring in the JB (don't know what) as he said something was not right.
It may be I will have to bite the bullet and get a professional in to sort it. Having said that, it did seem to be working fine until my latest efforts. I believe if I can get to the bottom of the actuator not working for the HW, then all should be well. Am I being a little naive?
One thing I've been wondering - if I do end up getting a qualified person in to sort the JB, would I be better getting a plumber who does electrics or an electrician? Would the latter understand the plumbing aspects of it properly?
Cheers.
B.

 

[matt1e]

I believe if I can get to the bottom of the actuator not working for the HW, then all should be well.

as I said earlier it is likely to be a problem with the programmer as you have lost the HW light on it too
my earlier post is misleading (well wrong) was meant to say put the brown in with the blue not the other way but then I decided a link between the two would be better (but forgot to mention it) as you would still have central heating
but better still would be if you managed to get a hold of a multimeter

Matt

 

[brian62c]

Firstly, apologies for the double-post - broadband playing up I think, so connections were dodgy (sounds like my wiring )
I'm a bit doubtful it's the programmer, purely because everything was working okay prior to me doing my stuff.
I will try and find the multimeter - if that's what it is - which I think is lurking in a shed. Don't know if I'll know what to do with it though

 

[matt1e]

I will try and find the multimeter - if that's what it is - which I think is lurking in a shed. Don't know if I'll know what to do with it though

1) set on ac 500 range
2) turn on both hotwater and central heating at the programmer
3) go to the wiring centre and put one probe in neutral on the terminals labled "mains" and the other probe in turn to the
4) brown(ch on) then blue (hw on) in the terminals labled "programmer"
5) brown(c) then blue (1) in the terminals labled "cyl stat"
6) the brown on the terminals labled "mid posn hw valve"
you should get a reading of approx 240v on each one

Then report back

Matt

 

[northernguru72]

Difficult to see if they are wire correctly from the pic as everything is labeled but have know the connection at the back to break down on these wiring centres. Check to see if you have approx 240v going into the wiring centre at the cylinder stat connection for hot water on. Then check if you have approx 240v to the brown wire of the actuator. If it's not getting across the wiring centre just connect wire directly and bypass circuit on wiring centre

 

[gaswizzard]

I believe if I can get to the bottom of the actuator not working for the HW, then all should be well.

as I said earlier it is likely to be a problem with the programmer as you have lost the HW light on it too
my earlier post is misleading (well wrong) was meant to say put the brown in with the blue not the other way but then I decided a link between the two would be better (but forgot to mention it) as you would still have central heating

I think you were right the first time Mattle , remove the blue and hook it up with the brown if HW switch is goosed on the programmer............or just remove brown wire and hook it up with grey on HW MV terminals.

 

[Agile]

I would always recommend a heating engineer as, if competent, they will be able to deal with gas, plumbing and wiring issues.

Only a very few electricians seem interested in trying to understand heating systems.

Tony

 

[brian62c]

Well, at long last I've managed to borrow a multimeter from a work colleague. I'm now confused by Matt1e's guidance though, as the meter doesn't have a 500 setting:

Untitled

• brian62c
• 17 Aug 2012
• 1

Really need to get this problem sorted with winter fast approaching (and summer no great shakes anyway) and family clamouring for a bath instead of a shower [/url]

 

[rjm2k]

looks like it's got 600 instead, at roughly half past 12 on the dial

 

[MANDATE]

half past twelve?
The selection knob for 600v AC should be first position after off position going clockwise

 

[brian62c]

Thanks chaps, it's back to April 11th then - watch this space ....

 

[brian62c]

Okay, finally (insert sarcastic drum roll) got my derriere in gear and tested as Matt1e instructed using my borrowed multimeter.

First three terminals read around 240v as expected. However:

Blue terminal labelled 1 in the cyl stat terminals read 0;

Brown in the terminals labelled mid posn hw valve also read 0.

If you haven't given up on me Matt1e, what's next?

By the way, the MV for the hot water is still not working and the boiler keeps locking out after its initial start-up (about 10 seconds), without actually running and heating up at all.

Cheers,

Brian (the Snail)

 

[Agile]

You have only measured one of the cylinder stat wires.

What about the blue one?