Newly installed motorized valve not working

[brian62c]

Sorry Agile, you've confused me.

Measured brown (c) and blue (1) on cyl stat terminals and brown read 240v and blue was 0.

B.

 

[CBF]

there is a very good expression in the heating game it's called K.I.S.S which stands for = keep it simple stupid, the OP checked the instruction man for the "cylinder" stat which said fix it to a pipe !! which means it's a pipe stat & not a cylinder stat & if it's a low limit stat for use with a frost stat unless the temp of the cylinder gets to about 5 degrees it isn't going to switch on, so OP i would check that first.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

RAM1 can be used as either pipe or cylinder stat according to mfrs. Assuming stat is connected as per instructions, supply to '1' ('C') and switched live from stat to '2'. If '1' ('C') on cyl stat reads 240v and '2' reads 0v then there is no power getting through cyl stat. Needs a 240v output from cyl stat to energise HW valve to open, and thus fire boiler/pump.

 

[matt1e]

If you haven't given up on me Matt1e, what's next?

By the way, the MV for the hot water is still not working and the boiler keeps locking out after its initial start-up (about 10 seconds), without actually running and heating up at all.

Cheers,

Brian (the Snail)

Hi Brian,no still here (well just got back )
will have to have a recap,will get back to you later as Monday nights are Jam nights and my geeetar needs restrung!

Matt

Ok had a look. the wiring centre is knackered, it has lost its track connection between programmer HW on and the cyl stat common it will likely be a burnt out pcb track
1 switch off power at the spur
2 add a link from cyl stat 1 to programmer HW on this wll restore the connection,(you could actually just terminate them together in either of their blocks)
3 check that the fuse in the spur is the correct 3 or 5 amp rating,& replace if necessary (things like pcb's, programmers etc get damaged when things go wrong if there's a 13A one in there )
4 switch on and test
5 report back as other links may be req

to add , make sure you do step 3, as you may still have an existing fault

Matt

 

[brian62c]

Hello again Matt1e - and thanks for getting back to me. Should have done all this a long time ago ....

Did as instructed (terminated both together) and got orange lights on top of both heating and hot water MVs but no actual operation from either. I went and pressed the reset button on the boiler and it still cuts out after about 15 seconds, before it gets going properly.
Checked the fuse in the spur and it is a 5amp.

B.

 

[matt1e]

if both lights are now on then they both have power and should be opening
besides that the boiler is firing so the valves must be open to give a call for heat, what makes you think they are not operating?
the problem with your boiler locking out is unrelated, and would be better served by a new thread
,

before it gets going properly.

while it is running properly you should now have hot water

 

[brian62c]

Neither MV is doing anything - no noise, just the lights on - and the sliding switches on the side can be moved back and forth by hand with no resistance.

Don't know if it's related but the Grundfos circulating pump (new) doesn't seem to be operating either, on any of its three positions.

I'm wondering if I've somehow got the wiring or set-up of the tank stat wrong, although it was working before I took everything apart to replace the dud items.

I'll start a new thread regarding the boiler, as you suggest - but not tonight.

 

[matt1e]

from your description both valves are open
as for the pump I thought you had working central heating?
to test the pump wiring and control centre circuitry
1 select central heating only and check for 240v at the terminals marked "pump"
2 turn off central heating and select hot water only and check at the same terminals again

there should be 240v in both instances and the boiler should also be firing
if no power is found in either or both instances then just piggy back the pump in with the boiler on the adjacent boiler terminals as you don't seem to req pump over run (if you do then it's been wired incorrectly in the first place)

 

[Agile]

Sorry Agile, you've confused me.

Measured brown (c) and blue (1) on cyl stat terminals and brown read 240v and blue was 0.

B.

And I thought that it was me confused by you!

That information implies to me that the HW cylinder stat is not calling for heat. Either its already hot, faulty or wrongly connected at the cylinder!

If both valves are open and the boiler cold and not firing then there is a boiler fault.

But I though that you already had heating ???

Tony

 

[brian62c]

Thanks both.

Yes it was working, after a fashion, before I did all my replacements - although even beforehand the boiler was starting to lock out from time to time.

Don't know what's happened in the months I left things in abeyance but yesterday I was getting nothing but orange lights and a locking out boiler. I really need to spend a decent amount of time investigating it all again. I'll have a good look at it and report back when I've discovered anything or come to any conclusions.

I am thinking I have boiler issues too.

I really would like not to have to admit defeat - but don't know if that's possible.

Appreciate all your helpful advice and patience.

Cheers,

B.

 

[matt1e]

did you test the pump and wiring?

 

[brian62c]

Finally, yes I did Matt - and got 240v on the brown wire, nothing on the blue wire both times.

 

[matt1e]

you're taking your time to reply brian i'll have to have another recap mate!

Finally, yes I did Matt - and got 240v on the brown wire, nothing on the blue wire both times.

right meter set on 600vac turn on the system and check that you are getting 230 at the pump terminals (top tighthand block)
make sure that you are using the dedicated neutral for the pump to measure with
if 0Vac then leave the probe in pump live and put the other probe in the incoming mains terminal neutral if now 230 then the pump neutral is open circuit, you can then either pick the neutral up from elsewhere or add a link its up to you.
be aware that the fuse may now blow,(make sure its a 3 or 5 amp) if it does then the pump or pump wiring is faulty

Matt

 

[ianmcd]

Here are two views of the JB - the second one shows the wires coming in a bit better. Any views, anyone? Do my connections to the HW and CH terminals look correct?

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• brian62c
• 10 Apr 2012
• 1

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Where are the purple wires you speak of ??

 

[brian62c]

you're taking your time to reply brian i'll have to have another recap mate!

Sorry Matt, I'll try to be quicker this time. Will have a go over the weekend.

Cheers,

Brian