No experience,so looking for advice.Pics added

[Richard C]

Live in the real world mate. The world where tiles don't fall through the floor. Stop being 'jobsworth'.

I'm certainly not a "jobsworth" & I both live & work in the real world but mine seems to be somewhat different to yours!

From the Tiling Association; http://www.tiles.org.uk/help/answer-gypsum.shtml

8. The maximum weight of tiling which can be supported by a dry, well-adhered plaster background is 20kg/m2, generally equivalent to ceramic tiles with a thickness of 8mm or natural stone tiles with a thickness of 7mm. When fixing directly to unskimmed paper-faced plasterboard surfaces the maximum permissible weight is increased to 32 kg/m2. These weights include adhesive and grout.

From BAL one of the leading manufacturers of tiling products: http://www.bal-adhesives.co.uk/newpdfs/BAL_Fixer_Guide.pdf
gypsum plaster

Max. tiling weight: 20kg/m2 incl. adhesive and grout. Allow new plaster to
dry for min. 4 weeks. Do not tile directly to backing coats. Ensure finish coat is
free of contaminants. Make good any defective areas.

From British Gypsum fifniwhign systems; http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/WB09_Tiling_07.pdf

Tiling onto plastered surfaces
Skim plastering is not normally specified to Gyproc moisture resistant grade boards.Tiles up to 20kg/m2 (including adhesive and grout) can be applied directly to Thistle finish plasters, except where the system includes a bonding agent. In this situation the total
weight of tiles and plaster applied over a bonding agent is limited to 20kg/m2, therefore consideration should be given to tiling directly to the background. If plastering to provide a background for tiles, avoid polishing the surface. Polished plaster surfaces should be roughened and a suitable primer used. Consult the tile adhesive manufacturer
for guidance. Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats, with the
exception of Thistle Dri-Coat.

--------------------------------0000000000000000-------------------------------------


Take your pick & any of the leading tile adhesive manufacturers have similar guidance; I realise manufacturers are always going to be conservative but they actually make & test their products, are you saying none of them live in the “real world” & they are all wrong.

I’m not really sure why I’m doing this as all you’re now doing is trolling me which I think is a shame. We’ve both been here a long time, I’ve never really had a problem with you before &, in spite of what others say about you, I’ve always thought you to be an informed & intelligent guy giving good advice when it suits you. I’ve no desire to start a verbal war, I don’t have the time or inclination, it’s impossible to defeat a troll anyway, it’s what they do & “get off” on but what’s the point!

Not much more I can say really, I’ll leave it to the OP & anyone reading this thread to make up their own mind. You don’t have to agree with me, that's your perogative & I don't expect you for one minute to admit your wrong, it's probably not in your vocabulary; just leave it alone & stop “digging”!

 

[Richard C]

Edit went wrong

 

[joe-90]

I don't agree and I'm not wrong. Just because tile adhesive reps want a get-out clause doesn't mean it's right. I've been in the game for near on 30 years and never - not once -seen tiles fall from weight issues. If you have - then tell us about it. Tell us how gravity works at 90 degrees. A rendered wall or plastered wall my be crumbling or not applied properly - but you don't take that into account do you? You just reel off your silly spiel. Quote meaningless figures. Get a grip man FFS.

 

[huddsspread]

BG say not to tile on undercoats except dri coat?

I have done, and know thousands of plasterers, who if not boarding, bond out rubbish walls for people to tile on. I never knew you were not meant to.

Where would you leran this stuff? if you dont read there website? Id never heard of dri coat till i looked at there website, never heard of most things on there website.

But in defense i have ever heard of tiles not sticking to BG backing plasters.

Where can you buy dri coat anyway, if its not in travis or wickes, I dont buy it!

 

[peaps]

BG say not to tile on undercoats except dri coat?

I have done, and know thousands of plasterers, who if not boarding, bond out rubbish walls for people to tile on. I never knew you were not meant to.

Where would you leran this stuff? if you dont read there website? Id never heard of dri coat till i looked at there website, never heard of most things on there website.

But in defense i have ever heard of tiles not sticking to BG backing plasters.

Where can you buy dri coat anyway, if its not in travis or wickes, I dont buy it!

most of it is just crap anyway, they are in the business of selling you as much product as they can. BG have got it so very wrong in the past, recommending products that have messed up old buildings.

Joe is right on this, gravity doesn't pull at 90 degrees. Richard C is a text book DIYer companies like BG love to see.

 

[Richard C]

I don't agree and I'm not wrong.

Well as I said, that’s not an unexpected response.

Just because tile adhesive reps want a get-out clause doesn't mean it's right.

Agreed the addy manufacturers might have a vested interest but the argument doesn’t hold any logic. British Gypsum’s own tiling guidance sates the same advice; what possible reason would have denigrade & place restrictions on their own plastering products, they don’t even make tiling products!

I've been in the game for near on 30 years and never - not once -seen tiles fall from weight issues.

I admit I can’t compete with that & at 6 years (8 years for plastering) am a relative newby but what’s the relevance? Dinosaurs once roamed the earth, a few hundred years ago folks genuinely thought the world was flat & just 60 years ago smoking was “beneficial to health”! Just 20 years ago folks were still sticking “fashionable” sticking 6” x 6” x 1/4” tiles on the wall, no problem; now they are wanting 60 x 30 x 1cm paving slabs, totally different scenario.

If you have - then tell us about it.

I’ve already answered that one but, yes, I have several experiences of tile failure due to finish skim de-lamination; why do you think I no longer advise plastering a tile base

Tell us how gravity works at 90 degrees.

Well of course gravity doesn’t work at 90 degrees (but that might be arguable!); but it does have an increasing effect every degree below 90 you go down to the vertical plane where it becomes sheer; as I said, you obviously don’t understand physics.

A rendered wall or plastered wall my be crumbling or not applied properly - but you don't take that into account do you?

Don’t follow, what’s your point? If it’s crumbling it has to come off!

You just reel off your silly spiel.

Why are manufacturers recommendations silly spiel?

Quote meaningless figures.

What figures have I quoted that are meaningless? Are you saying the product manufacturer’s data & an independent advisory authority publishes meaningless data! What possible reason would they have for doing that!

 

[Richard C]

BG say not to tile on undercoats except dri coat?

I have done, and know thousands of plasterers, who if not boarding, bond out rubbish walls for people to tile on. I never knew you were not meant to.

Where would you leran this stuff? if you dont read there website? Id never heard of dri coat till i looked at there website, never heard of most things on there website.

But in defense i have ever heard of tiles not sticking to BG backing plasters.

Where can you buy dri coat anyway, if its not in travis or wickes, I dont buy it!

I’ve only ever used 3 of BG’s products plus good old fashioned render; I have used Bonding to patch out before tiling but since I became aware of the possible problems no longer do it. TBO, it probably won’t make a lot of difference if your just patching small areas but am no longer prepared to risk it. Never used Dri-Coat or even seen it on sale, unsure why it’s any different from the rest; I think it may be a hard coat intended for machine application but BG will tell you.

 

[peaps]

Well of course gravity doesn’t work at 90 degrees (but that might be arguable!); but it does have an increasing effect every degree below 90 you go down to the vertical plane where it becomes sheer; as I said, you obviously don’t understand physics.

Would that equation be the same when the tiles are set to a surface such as a bath? Maybe? Or the floor?

 

[joe-90]

I understand physics, Richard. It is you that do not. If you were tiling the ceiling then those figures might be relevant - but you are not - you are tiling a wall and gravity only pulls one way. How do you know whether a render is good or bad? Or plaster good or bad? The figures are meaningless unless you know the nature of the substrate you are tiling onto - and the only way you can know that is by hacking it off. You can't just look at it and 'know' the substrate is sound. You are losing this one mate. Time to put the spade away.

 

[Richard C]

Time to put the spade away.

It's your spade m8 & your the one doing the digging; see you got an ally in peaps though

 

[huddsspread]

come on ladies shall we put a lid on it now.

 

[Richard C]

Would that equation be the same when the tiles are set to a surface such as a bath?

Not sure what you mean, are you talking about the bath supporting the tiles? It will only have an effect on the first couple of rows if that.

Maybe? Or the floor?

Now you’re just being fjking stupid; your not joe’s alter ego are you!