No hot water. Faulty Bolier?

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Wolverhampton
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I have recently moved into a new home, my first, so have little experience with house hold problems etc, (good old dad :) ) and i can't get any hot water :evil: .

The previous owners have not mentioned having this problem.

I have a POTTERTON SUPRIMA 30 boiler fitted to the wall in the kitchen which has a temp knob (no indication to the temp though) a reset button and two lights, green and red. The red light is permanently ON and when i press the reset button the green light flickers for a while then goes out again.

I have been onto the Potterton website, but there isn't a troubleshooting page and no real mention of a Suprima 30 model (Suprima L or HE (??)).

I'm really at a loss! :?:

Also my central heating pump (the red thing in the airing cupboard) seems to me to be quite hot (considering there's no hot water) and there's a little white box connected to the pipe coming off the pump (forming a 'T' junction) with a switch on that says "Man" or "Auto" but it doesn't seem to be doing anything.

Please help, i'd love a warm bath/shower!
 
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sounds like a pcb fault......................................... :rolleyes:

availible off ebay, or your local heating merchants.....
 
Thanks jasonvaughan :D

What exactly would i need to put in as search criteria to find one on ebay, or alternatively ask for in a shop?

Potterton Suprima 30 PCB?

What kind of price should i expect to pay?
 
Sorry Jase i have to disagree if the red light is on permanently that would indicate there is no call for heat from the system so more likely to be problem with programmer or cylinder stat etc :confused:
 
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:( I don't mean to sound like i'm going on, but i'm still none-the-wiser :confused:

Please explain what's wrong and what i can do.
 
your boiler has 2 live's... one is a permanent live, and the other is a swiched live to turn the boiler on.

a constant red light means that the boiler is in standby mode, waiting to be turned on by the swl.

your problem seems to lie somwhere between the fused spur, and the boiler. so could be either you programmer, or your diverter valve..... when you switch the ch on, dose the motorized valve move across....
 
:evil: You might as well change your pcb though, it's probably on the point of failing
smilie_aengstl1.gif
 
....and lose £150, like I just did because the seller is dishonest...
 
Thanks guys this is all very useful.

Jason (cheers) i don't think there is anything wrong with the programmer. I'm guessing that the diverter valve that you refer to is the little white box (as i called it), in which case i've never watched to see if the switch moves when the CH is on (mainly because i didn't know it should, but also because it's in the airing cupboard upstairs and the boiler is in the kitchen downstairs - like you care. :LOL: )

I'll be sure to check when i get home tonight. Thanks.

RE: the PCB, is this something i could change myself? Or is it something that i should have a professional do? :confused:

kev, what :?: (Sounds to me like something i'd find on a motorbike engine). What does that mean mate? More work/cost?

Thanks again...
 

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