Old school fuse box

[SFK]

Search for "Fused Switch"
If you are competent with electric wiring replace with one of these.
Suggest one with a light on it so you know when/if there is power when switched on:

Toolstation

www.toolstation.com

or
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/fused-spurs/cat13020004


ALSO - PLEASE get someone into fill that space in your 'fuse box' (Slot 6).
There are live parts in there, at finger touching distance, that will kill.
Not suggesting you fit this, but this is what is likely needed.

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1540827-single-pole-busbar-blank

SFK

 

[JohnD]

This one is suitable and has a red indicator lamp. It is a good make.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-capital-13a-switched-fused-spur-with-neon-white/53831

This one has an LED which should last much longer

https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-instinct-13a-switched-fused-spur-flex-outlet-with-led-white/973hv

This one is also OK but needs a 35mm backbox

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-13a-switched-fused-spur-flex-outlet-with-neon-white/58085

For your central heating, take out the 13A cartridge fused that it comes with, and put in a 5A.

Measure your existing backbox, it may only be 25mm deep.

Edit
A bit cheaper at Toolstation with switch and neon.

Crabtree 13A Fused Spur

www.toolstation.com

 

[JohnD]

Okay Iv wired plenty of sockets but not a boiler socket would just the face plate need changing or do I get a boiler switch box or whatever they called if so does anyone know which

With a bit of luck, when you look at the back of the new switch, you will find the L and N terminals are marked "load' and 'supply In" or similar. The flex to the boiler goes to the 'load" terminals.

The indicator light is also fed from the "load" terminals, so it switches on and off.

 

[Alec_t]

There are two switches in your post #8 pic: a button-operated one on the wireless receiver (top left) and one on the FCU (bottom right). Which one do you mean?
Have you paired your thermostat with the receiver?
Do you have a remote control for the boiler?

 

[Asheyb85]

The fcu one won't switch, I can't pair anything to the boiler if no power is going to it and there is a remote for it in the living room I have no idea what the previous owner did all the wiring seem fine.

But no current is going through

 

[Ragnar_AT]

Sounds like a broken switch and the FCU needs to be replaced.

 

[Asheyb85]

Nope that didn't work there no power going through has to be tripped but I can't work out where

 

[SFK]

Please can you clarify 'what didn't work'.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Nope that didn't work there no power going through has to be tripped but I can't work out where

Your replies and descriptions, are not helping, you need to be reasonably precise, to get sensible help.

 

[Ragnar_AT]

If you think that no power is getting to the FCU, you probably need to start checking fuses at your consumer unit. Remove each fuse and test it.

You can do that by putting the fuse onto a smartphone screen, so that only one of the metal caps touches the screen. If you touch the other cap with your finger and the phone reacts, the fuse is good. If all the fuses are good, you‘ll have to call an electrician.

 

[securespark]

That's an older Hager board with flip-out cartridge fuse holders.

One of those will contain the fuse for the boiler.

If it is 5A, be warned that plug fuses are not suitable. The fuse you need for these holders are BS1361.

Edit:

Sorry, I have done a Secure again...late to the party again.

If the switch is jammed, it could have shorted and in doing so, blown a cartridge fuse at the board. Could it be the 20A one?

 

[JohnD]

The switch looks quite new.

If it is truly jammed, I would suspect that fine gritty dust has git into the mechanism, perhaps from drilling into tne wall. I have also known it happen when a water leak has carried dirt into the switch.

They take many years to wear out in normal use.

 

[bernardgreen]

This was a contact in the RCD that supplied power to the village Christmas Tree and Santa's Grotto. The RCD was full of ants.

The supply was OK when tested the day before the offical switch ON but was less than 50 volts when the Grotto was connected and the RCD was switched ON The RCD did not trip OFF. The ants that had been between the closing contacts were squashed and cremated and created a resistive path between the contacts.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

You can do that by putting the fuse onto a smartphone screen, so that only one of the metal caps touches the screen. If you touch the other cap with your finger and the phone reacts, the fuse is good. If all the fuses are good, you‘ll have to call an electrician.

Neat trick, never thought of that - must try it..

 

[ericmark]

I look at the cheap non contact voltage testers this one at £2.72 and today so easy to test without opening any box, I use a multi-tester that cost a lot more, (£35) but still using the same function, no need to use the leads to start with, testing the supply to the FCU or the hub programmer for central heating is so easy to start with, no need to check the main fuse.

Once one has established where the supply is lost, then one needs to remove fuses to test, as pointed out, can even use a touch sensitive display to do that.

But the question is normally not what has failed, but why. OK two one cup kettles in the same 4 way extension, and we know we have overloaded it, so just pop in a new fuse. But to the central heating, why should a fuse rupture? I know I should test first, but in the main I will swap a fuse, so taken out of some item working, so know fuse is OK and put old fuse in the working item shows fuse is not OK and if the item still does not work, swap back, and see if second fuse has blown. If it has blown, then it means get out all the test gear.

I look at this

and alarm bells ring. Not saying that is the problem, but if the installer is so shoddy with their workmanship that they don't use cable clamps to secure the cable where it can be seen, what is it going to be like where you can't see it?