Old school fuse box

I look at the cheap non contact voltage testers View attachment 361996 this one at £2.72 and today so easy to test without opening any box, I use a multi-tester View attachment 361998 that cost a lot more, (£35) but still using the same function, no need to use the leads to start with, testing the supply to the FCU or the hub programmer for central heating View attachment 362001 is so easy to start with, no need to check the main fuse.

Once one has established where the supply is lost, then one needs to remove fuses to test, as pointed out, can even use a touch sensitive display to do that.

But the question is normally not what has failed, but why. OK two one cup kettles in the same 4 way extension, and we know we have overloaded it, so just pop in a new fuse. But to the central heating, why should a fuse rupture? I know I should test first, but in the main I will swap a fuse, so taken out of some item working, so know fuse is OK and put old fuse in the working item shows fuse is not OK and if the item still does not work, swap back, and see if second fuse has blown. If it has blown, then it means get out all the test gear.

I look at this View attachment 362003 and alarm bells ring. Not saying that is the problem, but if the installer is so shoddy with their workmanship that they don't use cable clamps to secure the cable where it can be seen, what is it going to be like where you can't see it?
Have we not established the FCU switch doesn't operate?
 
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Have we not established the FCU switch doesn't operate?
I think we are supposed to assume that "Nope that didn't work there no power going through has to be tripped but I can't work out where" is trying to say that the OP went to screwfix, bought a new FCU, installed it, but found that the boiler was still not working. If it didn't then I have no clue.
 
I think we are supposed to assume that "Nope that didn't work there no power going through has to be tripped but I can't work out where" is trying to say that the OP went to screwfix, bought a new FCU, installed it, but found that the boiler was still not working. If it didn't then I have no clue.
Initially I didn't read post#22 as saying he has replaced the FCU, I took it to be checking with a NCV tester, reading again...
 
I was right to start with it was a fuse I took photos of all the fuses replaced all of them the 15A fuse in slot 5 was gone.

I aim to get rid of this fuse system as it's seriously old school.

I appreciate all the replies thank you
 
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Just wire your boiler onto a plug then plug that into an extension lead, if it pops the fuse (should be 3a) then you have a prob with your boiler.
 
I was right to start with it was a fuse I took photos of all the fuses replaced all of them the 15A fuse in slot 5 was gone.

I aim to get rid of this fuse system as it's seriously old school.

I appreciate all the replies thank you
It may be a lot more economical to upgrade that than you think with RCBOs to fit that board at under £18
 

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