Thank you for the input. I'm pretty much sorted now. I have a niggling thought in my head about getting three conductors into the load terminals of a standard double pole switch? This particular switch will be in my garage and won't be anything fancy looking.
Great, that really helps. I'm planning to use 2.5mm2 TE for the new circuit, up to each junction box and then 1mm2 TE down to the DP Switches and onwards.
Great, that really helps. I'm planning to use 2.5mm2 TE for the new circuit, up to each junction box and then 1mm2 TE down to the DP Switches and onwards.
Another quick query on this one. I know I can get 3 conductors into the terminal blocks of a 20A DP switch, but I'm thinking it would be easier to just run one cable to a maintenance free junction box from the DP switch and then wire each light from there, so I still have my DP switch providing isolation but save from having to squeeze in two cables into some of my wall lights? Also given which floorboards I have accessible right now, it would be easier to connect each light to the junction box than to each other.
These Garden clusters, how many lights?
Think I might be tempted to use 20A Gridswitches so as to control each cluster seperately, though for 3 Gang or more you would need a twin back box.
These Garden clusters, how many lights?
Think I might be tempted to use 20A Gridswitches so as to control each cluster seperately, though for 3 Gang or more you would need a twin back box.
I am guessing from earlier posts, the whole lots protected by a 5 A fused Rcd spur, till you get the Consumer unit changed then will likely be 6A protected, as all your wirings rated in excess of that fuse rating, you can virtually do anything regarding Teeing or branching off from the switches or Junction boxes, including what you propose.
Ring circuits are the only circuits that really have any stipulations on how there wired
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