plasterboard sizes

[jollatine]

This forum was too entertaining, I had to join to seek advice and add if possible. I understand that this discussion is historic, but, people may learn something from reading old and new posts even if the original start of the thread is out of date.

Having worked out my ceiling plan, it looks as though 2.4 x 1.2 is the most efficient way of boarding out my ceiling. I'm using 9.5mm. I am hoping not to skim and use tapered edge board, tape the edges and fill with joint filler. Where two edges meet which aren't tapered I will use a generous bead of gripfill which I hope will prevent cracking
I'd like to use the so called 6x4 but can't seem to find it with tapered edges. It would be easier as I'm doing it on my own, but whats wrong with using a 'deadman'? - a piece of 2x1 with a plate on the end the height of the ceiling - jam it in under the board to help hold it place while you get a screw or two. I don't need to insulate as its ground floor and the ceiling is concrete. Its all being attached to batons.

If anyone has some helpful suggestions please add.

 

[Richard C]

Nobody really uses 9.5mm anymore & even British Gypsum recommends 12.5mm for ceilings unless double boarding. Stagger the board joints across the joists, board close & screw fix every 150-200mm max for the small amount extra use Duplex (foil back) boards. I would advise you get the lot plastered rather than faf around with filler & sanding; it’ll look so much better, last 10x longer & be all done in a ½ day. But if not, make sure you use PB sealer before you decorate. What pitch are your battens? What size timber you using for the battens & how is it fixed? You really need intermediate noggins & on the two sides to support the board edges & cross joist joints if the pitch is greater than 450mm. A board prop or dead man as you call it is a good way to do it but use 4x2, the 2x1 will be too flimsy.

 

[jeds]

If anyone has some helpful suggestions please add.

9.5mm plasterboard is rarely specified these days but it has nothing to do with being too flimsy or anything like that. 9.5 is structurally fine as long as you have minimum 400mm c/s supports. If you only have 600mm then you should use 12.5. The reason it's not specified these days is because it does not comply with current acoustic requirements for domestic floors. In fact 12.5 doesn't either but it's very close and still widely used. It should really be 15mm standard board or 12.5 soundcheck to comply in standard spec floors.

I don't understand why anybody would use small boards. Use the largest you can and set them out in a brickwork pattern. A couple of dead-men can easily be made from any old batten or a bit of 2x1.

Use 40mm screws at 300mm c/s and double check every one to make sure it's pinched tight. Slightly loose screws is what causes nail pops later. (screw pops just doesn't seem to sound right)

 

[Richard C]

The reason it's not specified these days is because it does not comply with current acoustic requirements for domestic floors. In fact 12.5 doesn't either but it's very close and still widely used. It should really be 15mm standard board or 12.5 soundcheck to comply in standard spec floors.

Is Wallboard 10 OK, or are ceilings a higher insulation spec than walls?

Use 40mm screws at 300mm c/s and double check every one to make sure it's pinched tight.

300mm is really too far apart; even BG recommend a max of 230mm but I like to go closer.

 

[jeds]

The reason it's not specified these days is because it does not comply with current acoustic requirements for domestic floors. In fact 12.5 doesn't either but it's very close and still widely used. It should really be 15mm standard board or 12.5 soundcheck to comply in standard spec floors.

Is Wallboard 10 OK, or are ceilings a higher insulation spec than walls?

Use 40mm screws at 300mm c/s and double check every one to make sure it's pinched tight.

300mm is really too far apart; even BG recommend a max of 230mm but I like to go closer.

Apologies; you are dead right. I was thinking wallboard, which is 300mm. Ceiling should be 230mm and 150 at perimeters.

The ceiling board should be minimum 10kg/m², which standard wallboard isn't at 9,5mm or 12.5mm. 15mm is ok or any other thickness of some other board providing it meets 10kg. I don't know what wallboard 10 is but I guess the 10 means 10kg and I presume its a product specifically designed to meet the 10kg standard.

 

[Richard C]

I was thinking wallboard, which is 300mm. Ceiling should be 230mm and 150 at perimeters.

I also use the same 150-200mm max spacing on studs; as I said, I like to go closer & for what the screws cost

I don't know what wallboard 10 is but I guess the 10 means 10kg and I presume its a product specifically designed to meet the 10kg standard.

There you go ;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...ies/gyproc_acoustic/gyproc_wallboard_ten.aspx
I prefer to use 15mm Sound block, slightly more expensive & above spec but even better.

 

[jollatine]

in answer to Richard C, Its a 1950 block so ceilings are concrete, Im nail gunning 2x1 to the ceiling with gripfill and will run them at 300 intervals. When the gripfill goes off I will put a few screw and rawl plugs in through the batons into the concrete for safety. The ceiling is only 1700 wide and 5500 long so its easy enough to cut each sheet to 1700 long and tape the tapered edges. I'll be ok with skimming the walls but not the ceiling hence the dry line approach!

 

[jollatine]

actually, going to make 400 centres, 300 is overkill I think

 

[Richard C]

actually, going to make 400 centres, 300 is overkill I think

I hope your not being serious Assuming your gunning the the timber to the cieling at 1 inch depth, that won't give you enough timber for standard 40mm screws on 12.5mm so I assume your sticking with 9.5. A mistake IMO but your choice.

 

[geraint]

hi mr gumby,
as a pro we do not use 8x4 sheets to save time or money!!!!
it is because thats the specifications on the drawings we work from, and is more professional.

never seen the size of the board being specified... and please tell how it is MORE professional...

 

[Alastairreid]

never seen the size of the board being specified

I dont expect you would have!

please tell how it is MORE professional...

Are you for real?

 

[Richard C]

hi mr gumby,
as a pro we do not use 8x4 sheets to save time or money!!!!
it is because thats the specifications on the drawings we work from, and is more professional.

never seen the size of the board being specified... and please tell how it is MORE professional...

C,mon even if it was 2 years ago, experienced spreads & builders still “talk” in old money. It’s 2400 x 1200mm in new money as far as specs go as I’m sure you’re aware; unless your being pedantic

 

[geraint]

never seen the size of the board being specified

I dont expect you would have!

please tell how it is MORE professional...

Are you for real?

yes and still waiting.. so please pray tell me...

 

[geraint]

hi mr gumby,
as a pro we do not use 8x4 sheets to save time or money!!!!
it is because thats the specifications on the drawings we work from, and is more professional.

never seen the size of the board being specified... and please tell how it is MORE professional...

C,mon even if it was 2 years ago, experienced spreads & builders still “talk” in old money. It’s 2400 x 1200mm in new money as far as specs go as I’m sure you’re aware; unless your being pedantic

not pedantic.. but never seen a spec with the size of board. the reasons of the smaller boards are well evidented... if that is a word...

 

[jollatine]

[
I hope your not being serious Assuming your gunning the the timber to the cieling at 1 inch depth, that won't give you enough timber for standard 40mm screws on 12.5mm so I assume your sticking with 9.5. A mistake IMO but your choice.
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Richard Cquote]

I've got some cross batons too at right angles to the 400's, and yes, planning to use 12.5[/quote]