Sorry Matt, but I can't see any photos in the album
Please Help!! econo 7 heating?
- Thread starter matt81
- Start date
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I will try and upload again!!
I think it has worked now!!
As you can see the first pic is the leaky pipe which has over time dripped down on to the stat, as you can see in the other pics, any thoughts will be most welcome, if you guys think replacing just the stat will work I will do that as its much easier, I must admit the tank looks a tad worse for wear what with the leaky pipe, but hey just let me know your thought.
Thanks to all!!
Thanks to all!!
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S
starspark
you can check the stat if you have a continuity tester just by puttin it on either terminal of the stat. or if your not sure about that just make sure power is isolated and disconnect stat pull it out put new one in and reconnect set desired temp and see if water is warm tomorrow or move on eco 7 timeclock to off peak and see what temp like in about an hour. however by the looks of that immersion i would be tempted just to get a whole new one as that one looks badly corroded and could probably quite easily rupture!
If you have a ohm meter you can do basic checks on the stat and element.
First off your cylinder looks like you could do with a plumber, the bit that is leaking is a fitting boss, so it could easily be sorted.
Now to the testing... with the power off and ohm meter in hand, disconnect the brown wire coming from the flex, now put one probe on the connection with the blue wire and the other on the other terminal of the thermostat.. you should get a reading of about 19 ohms.
If the above test is ok then personally I'd just change the stat as it looks to not be a safety stat (regs state the all new immersion elements have to have a temperature regulating stat and a safety stat, they can be combined or seperate)
If you don't get a reading of 19ohms then you will need to get the whole immersion element replaced (yours are 11")
First off your cylinder looks like you could do with a plumber, the bit that is leaking is a fitting boss, so it could easily be sorted.
Now to the testing... with the power off and ohm meter in hand, disconnect the brown wire coming from the flex, now put one probe on the connection with the blue wire and the other on the other terminal of the thermostat.. you should get a reading of about 19 ohms.
If the above test is ok then personally I'd just change the stat as it looks to not be a safety stat (regs state the all new immersion elements have to have a temperature regulating stat and a safety stat, they can be combined or seperate)
If you don't get a reading of 19ohms then you will need to get the whole immersion element replaced (yours are 11")
Hey, luckily for me the ones I bought are 11 inch! so u wouldent advise new tank then?? looking at it , it must of been leaking a fair few years, would u advise getting a plumber in? the other thing is the really bad element (due to the corrosion) is the top one i,e the one the leak hits first, I would presume this is the boost one? which is working, its the off peak element which isnt, when i remove the cap on the bottom element it doesent look to bad, well no half as bad as the top one! so just to sum up, you would advise fixing it as oppose to getting a new tank? just how much pressure can I put on the elements whist unscrewing them? they are rock solid and I dont want to damage the tank if it can be saved!
Thanks mate
Thanks mate
A new tank is going to cost you maybe £450 so you may be better off getting a plumber in to have a look first.
Before getting them to try and remove the element make sure you have enough money for a new tank, because once they start they will not be able to stop and if the tank tears then they'll have to replace it or you will not have any hot water until they do!
Before getting them to try and remove the element make sure you have enough money for a new tank, because once they start they will not be able to stop and if the tank tears then they'll have to replace it or you will not have any hot water until they do!
Ok, Thank You very much for all your help, I gave it a right good go and it is rock solid, I dident want to start banging away with a hammer for that exact reason, I have had a chat with my wife and we have decided we will get a couple of plumbers to come and have a look and to quote us on the job, like you say theres no point me forcing it then the tank rupturing as I will be up ****e street then, maybe the cred card will get a hit but theres not much else I can do, such is life I guess, Thanks again mate im very appreciative for all your advise.
Cheers
Cheers
No prob,,
Personally I do replace elements, but sometimes you do have to say to people to get a plumber in, it's not worth the risk of damage and in the end they should have all the right tools and experience to do the job without damage... or to be able to tell if it's there is a big risk involved..
If you do fancy a go yourself then it's better with a box spanner, you can tap it with a hammer while trying to undo it.. only crack the thread and then drain the cylinder down completley,, then you should be able to remove the element without too much issue..
When fitting a new element firstly clean up the face of the boss, do not apply any sealant or tape - just use the supplied gasket - then just tighten it up and refill.
Personally I do replace elements, but sometimes you do have to say to people to get a plumber in, it's not worth the risk of damage and in the end they should have all the right tools and experience to do the job without damage... or to be able to tell if it's there is a big risk involved..
If you do fancy a go yourself then it's better with a box spanner, you can tap it with a hammer while trying to undo it.. only crack the thread and then drain the cylinder down completley,, then you should be able to remove the element without too much issue..
When fitting a new element firstly clean up the face of the boss, do not apply any sealant or tape - just use the supplied gasket - then just tighten it up and refill.
I bought a box spanner (after taking back the flat one as I couldent get it in)! like I say I was scared of rupturing the thing, maybe I will give it a try although I dont know if its worth the earache I will get if I mess up! the element instructions said to put pte tape around the thread?? I couldent get the tank to drain from the valve at the bottom, dont know why , so I had to just run the tank down running the hot water taps, will a plumber not fit the elements? mind you I guess if he fits the new tank then I could do that without to much hasstle!
Goodnite all
Goodnite all
If you cannot get the cylinder to drain down using the drain cock then DO NOT try and remove the element..
By just draining down using the taps the cylinder is still full of water.
You are going to need a plumber I'm afraid.
A plumber may or may not remove the element, it depends on how siezed the element is!
By just draining down using the taps the cylinder is still full of water.
You are going to need a plumber I'm afraid.
A plumber may or may not remove the element, it depends on how siezed the element is!
Just a quick update guys, I had a plumber come and look/quote the job today, although I was at work so my farther in law was here, the guy said the tank was against regs as it was to close to the roof, other than that he said it was a botched job mainly due to the fact the previous owner who did the place out to sell it installed a power shower, im not sure exactlly what he said as my farther in law was a tad sketchy, anyway im just waiting for a quote now! not looking forwards to it! the guy said he would have to ask his guys if they was willing to carry out the job as it would be against regs. anyway I will update you when I get the price etc. Cheers
TBH that sounds a bit dodgy...maybe your father in law mis understood what he was saying!
However do not rely on this one quote alone and try and be in yourself when they come... why not give this plumber a call to see what he thought..
However do not rely on this one quote alone and try and be in yourself when they come... why not give this plumber a call to see what he thought..
Something to with how the water was feeding to the shower, is there regs about how far the tank has to be from the roof?? the plumber is a local guy and has been around a long time, he has a couple of guys working for him etc and ive heard good things,not that this means anything! our tank is a header tank but the to have a power shower the previous guy put an extra cold water tub in, the leaking pipe is one that goes from the header tank to the extra cold water tank but it wasent connected properly, the pipes are like a spider web up there (just like under the sink for the dishwasher & washer!) deffo not a neat worker! he was a joiner by trade. cheers
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