Plug socket replacement gone wrong (help?!)

Joined
3 May 2021
Messages
46
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
So, I tried to change my first plug socket.

Unfortunately, my new socket did not seem to fit my backbox (even though I thought they were all universal).

I therefore removed the new plug face to put the old one back on. Unfortunately, moving the wires around mean they are not neatly twisted again. Although all the power is off, I don't want to touch them, just in case.

When they go in the old socket, there is exposed copper between fixing and installation.

So, I don't know what to do. How much will a sparky cost (and to replace the other 7 while they are at it).

What should I do in the meantime? I can keep the power to the plugs off, but don't know how else to be safe.

Photo 1 is back of old and new.
Photo 2- live wire exposed at the back of plug
Photo 3. Old plug wired originally
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210504_194127.jpg
    IMG_20210504_194127.jpg
    277.9 KB · Views: 250
  • IMG_20210504_192142.jpg
    IMG_20210504_192142.jpg
    184.7 KB · Views: 244
  • IMG_20210504_192449.jpg
    IMG_20210504_192449.jpg
    97.3 KB · Views: 249
Sponsored Links
Possibly the unused top and bottom lugs on the back box need bending back to accommodate the new socket.

The wires can be neatly twisted with insulated pliers.

If you don't feel confident doing this work, employ an electrician.
 
You are fitting on to a 4 lug box, it is likely your new socket will foul on the top and bottom lug, you will likely need to bend them out the way before anything else.
As for the wires it is best they are not twisted but straight and flat
 
Sponsored Links
Thats a very shallow backbox for a socket, the original is obviously shallower than your replacement.
The cables have been cut very short so you are going to struggle with any new socket where the terminals aren't in the same position as the original, doesnt look as if there's room there for terminal block either.
You'll need pliers to remake the twists in that stranded cable.
Options.
1 Make a right mess by chopping that old backbox out, chase the wall deeper to accept a 38 or 50mm backbox, use terminal block to extend those cables to fit to new socket.
2. Carefully retwist the old cables together. Clean that old socket up (emulsion will come off usually with a fingernail), refit it.
3. Call an electrician, be prepared to part with £50 or so EDIT for each socket

If you don't have the confidence or tools to do 1 or 2 then you will be safe if you leave the power off and make sure anyone else in the house knows why the power is off (if its old rewirable fuses, keep the fuse in your pocket and tape over the fuse carriers). Ideally you would make live and neutral safe with terminal block or WAGO connectors.
 
Thats a very shallow backbox for a socket, the original is obviously shallower than your replacement.
The cables have been cut very short so you are going to struggle with any new socket where the terminals aren't in the same position as the original, doesnt look as if there's room there for terminal block either.
You'll need pliers to remake the twists in that stranded cable.
Options.
1 Make a right mess by chopping that old backbox out, chase the wall deeper to accept a 38 or 50mm backbox, use terminal block to extend those cables to fit to new socket.
2. Carefully retwist the old cables together. Clean that old socket up (emulsion will come off usually with a fingernail), refit it.
3. Call an electrician, be prepared to part with £50 or so EDIT for each socket

If you don't have the confidence or tools to do 1 or 2 then you will be safe if you leave the power off and make sure anyone else in the house knows why the power is off (if its old rewirable fuses, keep the fuse in your pocket and tape over the fuse carriers). Ideally you would make live and neutral safe with terminal block or WAGO connectors.
There's a plug on the other side of the room which pulls out less than a 1cm
 
25mm is the standard depth for a socket box.

The alternatives are 35mm or 47mm.
 
Sparks are often really tight (mean) with cable, especially those of yesteryear.

One guy I knew would wire up the socket, screw it to the box, then pull the cable tight so once the circuit was installed, there was very little movement when you unscrewed the accessory.
He proudly told me he saved a few metres of cable for every rewire.

I said I'd use extra cable and charge the customer for it, he looked at me as if I had a strangely shaped green head.
 
Sparks are often really tight (mean) with cable, especially those of yesteryear.

One guy I knew would wire up the socket, screw it to the box, then pull the cable tight so once the circuit was installed, there was very little movement when you unscrewed the accessory.
He proudly told me he saved a few metres of cable for every rewire.

I said I'd use extra cable and charge the customer for it, he looked at me as if I had a strangely shaped green head.
My house is in Yorkshire?!?
 
I think they mean the metal screw lugs (you have x4) top, bottom, left and right. Left and right receive the current screws for socket plate.
Edit: @AndyPRK beat me to it ;)
Top and bottom....? Old skool?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20210504_214521.jpg
    Screenshot_20210504_214521.jpg
    152.1 KB · Views: 141

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top