Plumbers advice!

WM40/4 is fanned

I agree.

there are 2 versions... the Baxi Solo 40 RS (Balanced flue) GC no: 41 077 48
Baxi Solo WM 40 (Fanned flue) Gc no: 41 077 53

Are you sure its a 'WM' Steve. Im confused :confused:
 
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there are 2 versions... the Baxi Solo 40 RS (Balanced flue) GC no: 41 077 48
Baxi Solo WM 40 (Fanned flue) Gc no: 41 077 53

Are you sure its a 'WM' Steve. Im confused :confused:

Now I'm confused too. IIRC, both WM and RS appear on the instruction booklet front. All I know is the boiler has a square flue.


My current feeling is to have the new combi boiler situated in the coal house, which I am turning into a sort of utility space with washer and dryer, maybe freezer. But it wont be heated.
 
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there are 2 versions... the Baxi Solo 40 RS (Balanced flue) GC no: 41 077 48
Baxi Solo WM 40 (Fanned flue) Gc no: 41 077 53

Are you sure its a 'WM' Steve. Im confused :confused:

Now I'm confused too. IIRC, both WM and RS appear on the instruction booklet front. All I know is the boiler has a square flue.


My current feeling is to have the new combi boiler situated in the coal house, which I am turning into a sort of utility space with washer and dryer, maybe freezer. But it wont be heated.

If you can take out the 2 screws (flip bottom panel towards you at the bottom first) you can lift the outer case off the lugs. You can see the model of boiler. You are allowed to do this and it involves no seals.

Personally, I think you have a 'Solo 40RS' and not a WM40.

Even less to go wrong if its a RS.

How good is your mains pressure?
 
How good is your mains pressure?

If you mean water pressure, I dont honestly know. I had a hosepipe on the kitchen tap to do the lawn, with a good seal around the tap, and had my finger over the end of the pipe to spray the water, and I realised I could stop the water with my finger, with no spray from the tap. But I have a feeling this is tank-fed. If this is mains pressure, its p*** poor. :(
 
You will need to check the capability of the main which needs to be able to satisfy all demands for water simultaneously.

If you decide on a new boiler, it will have to be condensing. Buy a good quality boiler with weather compensation. It will reduce gas consumption quite a bit.

Don't take any notice of the Luddites!
 
You currently have a cylinder system. That will give a better flow rate than any normal combi boiler.

Unless there is a good reason, it would be far cheaper to stay with a cylinder and just replace the boiler with a heat only type if you must.

Something like Worcester 12 Ri for example.

Tony
 
Unless there is a good reason, it would be far cheaper to stay with a cylinder and just replace the boiler with a heat only type if you must.
You mean stick with a similar setup to what I have now?

The thing is, the cylinder is corroding on one of the heat pipe inlets, so it will need replacing sometime. Its leaking ever to slightly, but no plumber will touch it because of the risk of tearing it by tightening. Rather than replace the cylinder and boiler and waste money heating a tank of water every day even when I dont need it (I live alone), I'd like to replace the whole system (in a year or so when funds are available).

What controller could I use to replace the type with 3 sliders?
Like this but much older:

st699.jpg


I'm after something where preferably I can control heating and water to different times. The system is fully pumped with a 3 position valve. Controller has 2 wires going to it.

Another issue at the moment is the boiler is in the front bedroom, and the cylinder in the back bedroom, which is far from ideal! I havent had it powered up at night yet (havent even moved in) but I suspect it will wake me up, so I'll be shaving with cold water if this is the case!
 
Any two channel programmer is suitable including the ST699 which you pictured.

Your system can time CH and HW seperately with a suitable programmer.

A cylinder generally gives better hot water delivery than a combi.

Heating the cylinder is not relevant as the heat loss is very small on modern cylinders and you can heat it only what you want to if you are prepared to wait.

Its normal to set the programmer so the system is not heating during the night.

We would charge about £1940 to convert to a combi but less at £1800 to fit a new heat only boiler and a new cylinder!

Tony
 
For those saying wm is purely fan flued i suggest you look at www.partsarena.com/baxi

It is listed as WM 40/4RS GC number 4107748



The WM stands for wall mounted and we all know RS is for roomsealed


And GC numbers starting with
41 is a normal boiler
47 is a combi
44 is a back boiler
32 is a fire
37 is a back boiler firefront
11 is cookers
 
As said above ADL its fanned no need to look we know
Egg on face time! There were several wm40/4 boilers made and only one was fan flued.Most of the one's in the 90's were RS and only the solo wm was fan flued.I believe Worcester now guarantee their heat exchangers for 10 yrs against structural failure.
 
Any two channel programmer is suitable including the ST699 which you pictured.

Your system can time CH and HW seperately with a suitable programmer.

A cylinder generally gives better hot water delivery than a combi.

Heating the cylinder is not relevant as the heat loss is very small on modern cylinders and you can heat it only what you want to if you are prepared to wait.

Its normal to set the programmer so the system is not heating during the night.

We would charge about £1940 to convert to a combi but less at £1800 to fit a new heat only boiler and a new cylinder!

Tony

How can you estimate £1940 in a job you have not seen?
 
I know what work is required.

There is little difference between typical houses. So its not difficult for me to give a budgetary price over the phone.

Most of those who go to give a quote are more weighing up what kind of car they have in the drive! Nice new BMW and the price goes up.

My prices dont depend on the type of car!

Tony
 

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