Potterton Netaheat Profile 40e Tripping! PROBLEM Plz HELP

[EN4]

Dear ALL,


I have a Potterton Netaheat Profile 40e boiler. The hot water is always set to constant and the heating to come on once a day. We came home yesterday and found the pilot light was out and heating not on. As soon as I pressed the isolation switch, the boiler fired up. This was the first time I've ever had to do this.

Woke this morning to find exactly the same problem and again had to press the isolation switch!

Can anyone shed any light on what the problem could be??????

For your info:

We had a new pump (Wilo Gold 50) fitted 5/6 years ago.
The boiler probably hasn't been serviced for the same amount of time.

PS:- Is it worth moving the pump valve settings around?

Any Help is Greatly Appreciated.

Win[/b]

 

[m1key00]

ok, slightly confused. Are you saying that you have to reset the boiler by the trip switch(electric fuse board) or the little red reset button underneath the boiler (the overheat)?

The boiler that you have does not have a pilot light.

If its the reset button then you have a problem with circulation, Pump broken, blocked heat exchanger, no water in the pipes, blocked cold feed etc.

If its the trip switch then its an electrical fault.

 

[EN4]

ok, slightly confused. Are you saying that you have to reset the boiler by the trip switch(electric fuse board) or the little red reset button underneath the boiler (the overheat)?

The boiler that you have does not have a pilot light.

If its the reset button then you have a problem with circulation, Pump broken, blocked heat exchanger, no water in the pipes, blocked cold feed etc.

If its the trip switch then its an electrical fault.

Hi Mikey.. sorry I mean the reset button under the boiler.

My boiler does have a pilot light.

The pump is working, the rads get hot.

 

[twgas]

Just to clarify, the pilot on your boiler is not a permanant pilot.
What number is the thermostat, on the boiler, set to. If it's 5 or above try it on 3 or 4, although this won't cure the problem it may save having to reset each time.
Is your system noisier than it used to be?
Do you have TRVs on all the rads?
Do you have a room 'stat?
Does the pump continue to run when the heating is turned off by the timer?

 

[EN4]

Just to clarify, the pilot on your boiler is not a permanant pilot.
What number is the thermostat, on the boiler, set to. If it's 5 or above try it on 3 or 4, although this won't cure the problem it may save having to reset each time.
Is your system noisier than it used to be?
Do you have TRVs on all the rads?
Do you have a room 'stat?
Does the pump continue to run when the heating is turned off by the timer?

Just to clarify, the pilot on your boiler is not a permanant pilot.
CORRECT

What number is the thermostat, on the boiler, set to. If it's 5 or above try it on 3 or 4, although this won't cure the problem it may save having to reset each time.
SET @ BETWEEN 3 & 4.

Is your system noisier than it used to be?
NO

Do you have TRVs on all the rads?
NO

Do you have a room 'stat?
YES

Does the pump continue to run when the heating is turned off by the timer?
YES


Thanks

Win

 

[twgas]

Then you need to be checking the flow and return temps, and try to establish at what temperature the overheat 'stat is tripping at.

 

[Agile]

On the Profile series of boilers the stat is really set to enable the boiler to get too hot so if its operated above "4" its very likely that o/h stat is going to trip.

I suppose the makers would say that if the design flow was provided there would be no problem but actual systems, particularly with sludge, dont always give enough flow to stop the stat tripping at high stat settings.

The first thing to check is the flow and return temperatures which shoule be about 10 degrees apart. Then the power input to the boiler as measured by the gas meter movement. An RGI would check the burner pressure as this is a sensitive measurement of the power as long as everything is correct.

If the flow differential is over 10 then the pump could be set to "3" as a temporary fix but the likely cause is a reduction of flow as a result of sludge.

Tony

 

[EN4]

Hi Tony..

How can I test the the flow and return temperatures?

Something else that has been happening today is:

The timer setting will now turn on the heating as specified, but it doesn't turn off as specified by the off time on the timer!

Any ideas?

thanks everyone.

 

[heatingman]

solid boiler, basiclly bullet proof, a few things can be causing your problem, all are relatively simple to fix. get a competant engineer by recommendation they should be able to diagnose within 30 mins.

 

[EN4]

solid boiler, basiclly bullet proof, a few things can be causing your problem, all are relatively simple to fix. get a competant engineer by recommendation they should be able to diagnose within 30 mins.

Thanks for that... what do you think it might be and what could be the worst case scenario in terms of cost?

Thanks

 

[heatingman]

there are just too many unknowns to attempt to give a sensible cost estimate. At the present time nobody knows if its a boiler fault (ie dodgy stat) or system fault (ie 2 ports & no by pass)

An unsensible estimate would be some where between £100 and £1000.

 

[EN4]

there are just too many unknowns to attempt to give a sensible cost estimate. At the present time nobody knows if its a boiler fault (ie dodgy stat) or system fault (ie 2 ports & no by pass)

An unsensible estimate would be some where between £100 and £1000.

I see you are in Surrey... Whats your charges heatingman?

 

[EN4]

As of this morning the boiler cutting out after 5 mins from cold. I have felt the pump and now its defiantly not working.

So, was the problems I was previously have, indicative of a pump on its way out??

Thanks again.

 

[Agile]

You dont test a pump by feeling it.

You check the shaft is spinning but even that is not a conclusive test which would involve inspecting the impeller and doing a "finger test".

Tony

 

[EN4]

You dont test a pump by feeling it.

You check the shaft is spinning but even that is not a conclusive test which would involve inspecting the impeller and doing a "finger test".

Tony

I always feel a vibration from the pump, but as of today: NOTHING!