No, do not connect Live to the Nest backplate, it will go bang. You need to disconnect that cable at the boiler end first, and connect two of the wires (preferably the brown and the brown-sleeved ones) into T1 and T2 on the Heat Link. Make the other two safe. Then you can connect it safely to the backplate
Potterton Powermax HE - Remote Programmer (Nest)
- Thread starter Jamie McDonald
- Start date
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I'm sorry your going to have to explain that a bit simpler. I'm a complete simpleton when wiring is concerned.
Another problem though. I connected them to the back plate before I posted this, now the boiler control panel will not power up. I have the amber light showing power to the control panel but the panel refuses to activate. I was told that it's possible the internal fuse has blown. I have looked for that said fuse but cannot find it. As I said above I'm a simpleton so I'm looking for a normal fuse like the small cylindrical ones you get in plugs.
Another problem though. I connected them to the back plate before I posted this, now the boiler control panel will not power up. I have the amber light showing power to the control panel but the panel refuses to activate. I was told that it's possible the internal fuse has blown. I have looked for that said fuse but cannot find it. As I said above I'm a simpleton so I'm looking for a normal fuse like the small cylindrical ones you get in plugs.
Some photos may help but I think you'd really be much better off getting this professionally installed before you do any (more) damage. If you get things wrong, it could cost you hundreds in replacement parts.
Boiler fuses aren't the same as standard plug fuses, no. They're a specialist type, purchased from either a heating spares or an electrical merchants
Boiler fuses aren't the same as standard plug fuses, no. They're a specialist type, purchased from either a heating spares or an electrical merchants
Too late - seems he already did that earlier.
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/potterton-powermax-power-issues-after-diy-nest-fitting.530722/
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Can you post photos of what you've got now, wiring at both ends?
Ok, from your description in the other thread you've started (it would be simpler to keep everything to one discussion) it sounds like you've connected Live & Neutral directly to your Nest without installing the Heat Link. If that's the case then at the very least you'll have killed your Nest as fitting the Heat Link is essential. Nest is designed to run on 12v DC power, not 230v AC, and the Heat Link provides this conversion. You may also have killed your boiler's PCB. A replacement one of those is just under £400. Better hope it's just a fuse on that.....
Omfg £400 how the hell can that happen. I have been in the house 1 bloody day.
I was chatting to a gas engineer over the phone yesterday and he suggested it could be the internal fuse in the PCB. I looked for it as the instruction manual indicated where it was but was unable to locate said fuse.
I took a picture of the pcb (on my partners phone so I dont have it) to show him and he also could not locate an internal fuse suggesting there might not be one.
Any ideas? Could it be hidden in one of the boxes on the pcb? A website mentions it could be a ceramic fuse and not your usual glass one.
I was chatting to a gas engineer over the phone yesterday and he suggested it could be the internal fuse in the PCB. I looked for it as the instruction manual indicated where it was but was unable to locate said fuse.
I took a picture of the pcb (on my partners phone so I dont have it) to show him and he also could not locate an internal fuse suggesting there might not be one.
Any ideas? Could it be hidden in one of the boxes on the pcb? A website mentions it could be a ceramic fuse and not your usual glass one.
Yes, the fuse is internal on the PCB just to the right of the power switch. It's a 3.15A Slow Blow type.
More haste, less speed - you should have followed all the instructions rather than just following half of them and hoping that would do. They're there for a reason... and it would have been cheaper to have paid someone for professional installation than potentially kill both a Nest and a boiler PCB.
More haste, less speed - you should have followed all the instructions rather than just following half of them and hoping that would do. They're there for a reason... and it would have been cheaper to have paid someone for professional installation than potentially kill both a Nest and a boiler PCB.
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