I just thought that's what it was called because that's what people call it.
That's precisely what I am suggesting.I just thought that's what it was called because that's what people call it.
It would certainly be 'logical', and you may be right - but, in common with what Sunray wrote (and 'for what it's worth', given my limited experience/exposure) I haven't personally seen cables within a CU whose markings indicated (or even suggested) that it was "tri-rated".I maybe wrongly assumed it was Tri rated, mainly due to the the feel and the shine of the insulation, very similar to the smaller Tri rated stuff we buy for shop internal lighting wiring, also I thought the higher temperature limit and its flame retardency, plus i recall it has higher current ratings, would all be a bonus, also never seen any fine stranded flex other than Tri rated stuff.
I realise all that, but my point was that, although TLC don't have 'tri-rated' >4mm²,they do have those 25mm² (insulated and sheathed) 'flexible tails'Tri-rated has many more than 19 strands and is not sheathed so would be no good for 'tails'.
In what sense are you suggesting that they do?I just wonder why, if the RCCB links for consumer units are not tri-rated, they bother to make them look like they are.
TR is not suitable for use in building wiring, to the point it usually has someting like 'Not for use in conduit or raceways' printed on each reel. It is only designed for use in switchgear/appliances/control panels etc.I maybe wrongly assumed it was Tri rated, mainly due to the the feel and the shine of the insulation, very similar to the smaller Tri rated stuff we buy for shop internal lighting wiring, also I thought the higher temperature limit and its flame retardency, plus i recall it has higher current ratings, would all be a bonus, also never seen any fine stranded flex other than Tri rated stuff.
Rexel sell the kits, so will see if can get more info
You can buy new stickers or just make your own and number them however you want.The Neutral terminals are numbered from 1-5 and I can clearly see that there is room for 5 Breakers next to each RCD. Hence, it's clear which cable goes where.The Earth terminals don't follow the same numbering scheme and this is causing me some confusion. They range from 1-13 and it's unclear on which breaker goes where
Well, there is no 'right' - just tidiness by cutting the wires to appropriate lengths. You get used to it.I was struggling with the length of cables and how much I should retain. I tucked the excess cable in the corner of the CU but was unsure on whether this is the right thing to do.
Not sure it matters as long as there isn't miles of bare cable beneath.Finally, should the wire for N and E poke out of the top of the terminal as shown in the above image?
Since you're anxious for responses, for starters, and for what it's worth, these asre the thoughts of a non-electrician ...Can I get your view on the above questions please. I’ve not wired in the remaining MCB’s until I have this clarification. Thanks for your support.
I would just (probably just 'mentally') count/number all of the devices which supply circuits (i.e. MCBs/RCBOs, not RCDs or Main Switch) from left to right, and then use the corresponding earth bar terminals with the corresponding numbers.The Neutral terminals are numbered from 1-5 and I can clearly see that there is room for 5 Breakers next to each RCD. Hence, it's clear which cable goes where. ... The Earth terminals don't follow the same numbering scheme and this is causing me some confusion. They range from 1-13 and it's unclear on which breaker goes where ...
The neatest solution is to use the minimum length possible, and some professionals take pride in the neatness that results in, but that can become a nuisance if/when one subsequently wants to change anything. I personally therefore tend to be very generous in how much 'slack' I leave, which means that my CUs end up looking anything but neat. Somewhere there is probably a sensible middle-ground compromise, and I don't think there is any 'right or wrong'.... I was struggling with the length of cables and how much I should retain. I tucked the excess cable in the corner of the CU but was unsure on whether this is the right thing to do.
Others will probably disagree, but I personally like the 'reassurance' of seeing a little of the conductor 'poking through'. I can't see any downside of doing that for the earth bar in any sort of CU, but I'd be a bit more hesitant to do it with the neutrals in a metal CU. I suspect views about this will vary.... Finally, should the wire for N and E poke out of the top of the terminal as shown in the above image?
No more than what you get with the default cables - that are already wired in!Not sure it matters as long as there isn't miles of bare cable beneath
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