Does the current numbering have any logic to it? I couldn't make any sense of it.
Practicing a Consumer Unit install
- Thread starter Jupiter01
- Start date
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Can you elaborate on this please. I think this is the corresponding image:
and some more info on this please. I think this is the corresponding image.
I think this is because my bulky pliers wont get too close to the sheath. I have put a separate post out to request recommendation for cable cutters. Would that provide a neater finish?
Thanks for the feedback
Likely using stock from pre rcd boards that took all mcbs maybe 13
Often you get a seperate legend pack supplied seperate, maybe sold on ebay
Quite the opposite. I think they should be right to left like the neutrals and MCBs.
Also, I think the two 'E's should be 'B's for Bonding conductors.
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1, maybe an illusion but the brown in mcb one looks like it loops round the earth.
2, Use your cutters after and nibble round the sheath, at least 15mm of that excess sheath could go, though not a major issue to worry about
2, Use your cutters after and nibble round the sheath, at least 15mm of that excess sheath could go, though not a major issue to worry about
You could be right, but I don't think so. 'kinky' I think there's just a bit of the upgoing brown which goes up and down in front of the G/Y - i.e. if one pulled it down slightly (towards the MCB), it would be clear that it all went behind the G/Y .....
Kind Regards, John
I have 10 usable ways and the earth bar goes up to 13. Which MCB should I treat as 1 on the earth bar?
To add an RCBO into this unit, do I move the right RCD along one to create space for the RCBO?
Does it then need its own busbar connecting to main switch? I assume it shouldn’t be sharing busbar with the current block of RCD and MCB’s.
I’d appreciate your guidance with this.
Does it then need its own busbar connecting to main switch? I assume it shouldn’t be sharing busbar with the current block of RCD and MCB’s.
I’d appreciate your guidance with this.
I really don't think it is of all that much importance but, as I said, since (unlike those on the neutral bars) the numbers on the earth bar go from left to right, I would use #1 on the earth bar for the left-most MCB, and then 'work to the right' from there with the numbering (for both earth bar and MCBs).
However, as EFLI has observed, it's a bit confusing (unsatisfactory) that the numbers on the earth and neutral bars go 'in opposite directions' - so, as a consequence of that, some people will probably end up confused whichever way you do it!
Kind Regards, John
One more for you guys, do folks always use a torque screwdriver when working on a CU?
I’ve got a set of Stanley Fatmax VDE Screwdrivers that serve all my electrical needs and loathed to go out and purchase a torque driver.
Interested to hear your experiences.
I’ve got a set of Stanley Fatmax VDE Screwdrivers that serve all my electrical needs and loathed to go out and purchase a torque driver.
Interested to hear your experiences.
Essentially yes and yes. You would then also probably have to shorten the busbar currently fed by the RH RCD.
Kind Regards, John
Others will undoubtedly disagree with me here but, for what it's worth, as I've often reported, my personal experience is that if I tighten the terminal screws of devices within CUs (MCBs, RCBOs, Main Switches etc.) with either of my two torque screwdrivers (one was a gift!) to the "manufacturer's recommended torque", I am frightened by how 'loose' they end up - but maybe others don't have that experience.
Kind Regards, John
Am I limited to a maximum of 5 RCBO’s on this CU or can I get rid of the first RCD and have 7 RCBO’s? If yes, can the N for two of these RCBO’s spill over to the second N terminal bar?
If, as well as getting rid of the RH RCD, you moved the LH RCD to the left (and shortened its busbar), you could (by adding an appropriate long busbar) presumably have 9 RCBOs.
The phrase "spill over" is a little worrying (see below) but, yes, if you got rid of the RH RCD you could then link (connect) together the two right-hand neutral bars (with a short bit of cable) (effectively producing a longer bar) and then use all the remaining holes in both of the bars for the (however many) RCBO circuits. Indeed, if you got rid of both RCDs, you could presumably have 14 RCBOs, and link together all three neutral bars for their circuits.
What you cannot do is to have neutrals from circuits protected by one RCD 'spilling over' onto the neutral bar of circuits protected by a different RCD, or the neutral bar of circuits protected by RCBOs - or, similarly, you can't have neutrals of RCBO circuits 'spilling over' onto neutral bars for any RCD-protected circuits. If you break those 'rules', you'll have RCDs tripping all over the place!
Whilst I admire your (almost extreme
) desire to learn how to do things 'very properly' within a CU, that really needs to happen in the context of your having a good understanding of the underlying electrical concepts and principles - in this case an understanding of how RCD/RCBO protection works, hence what you can and cannot do when wiring those devices. If you understand that, you will know what you can and cannot 'do' with such devices.Kind Regards, John
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