Preparing a wall for a new kitchen

[Jupiter01]

Hi All,
The studs on this wall are 10cm wide - when measured from the block to the plasterboard.
I would like to put some horizontal wood in between the studs to provide a fixing point for my wall and base units.

Would it be okay to use 4x2 for this purpose?
If yes, do I screw diagonally on the face or top and bottom? Will this provide sufficient strength?

Thanks for your help.

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

you could use 89mm cls timber . cheaper.
screw through the sides of your existing batts.

 

[Jupiter01]

Thanks @bennymultifinish.
Do I fix these flat between the studs? With the 89mm side being where the cabinets will be screwed?

Assuming yes, I can see how I can screw the first piece through the stud and into the side of this timber but I will then need to do that same for the next piece? Am I missing something?

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

Thanks @bennymultifinish.
Do I fix these flat between the studs? With the 89mm side being where the cabinets will be screwed?

Assuming yes, I can see how I can screw the first piece through the stud and into the side of this timber but I will then need to do that same for the next piece? Am I missing something?

yes the 89mm facing you.
offset them by 3/4” up and down to get the screws in...do every other one level , then set the rest 3/4” lower so the screws in those will be at the bottom . stronger.

 

[Jupiter01]

Will 1 screw on each side be adequate?

 

[dontbelieveawordofit]

Will 1 screw on each side be adequate?

100%. 80mm screws. make a note of where they are and pin your pb to them also.

 

[Jupiter01]

If after removing the old plasterboard I discover the walls aren’t true : not level vertically or not flush horizontally, do I need to sister (think that’s the right term!) the existing battens?

How important is this to get right before fitting the units?

 

[23vc]

Not a massive issue, more an issue when you come to do the worktops. Make sure the units are level and plumb even if the wall isn’t

 

[Jupiter01]

If my wall isn’t horizontally plumb, won’t I have issues with keeping the front of the units level?

if my vertical isn’t level, doesn’t that kick out the units joining on the adjoining wall and hence out of alignment with base units?

 

[23vc]

You’ve got loads of adjustment when you fit base units to get them level. Worst case if the wall is really bad may need to pack the odd bit. The units all need to line up with each other and are screwed to each other.

 

[Jupiter01]

UPDATE: I've put these timbers in this week. I have used my laser level to set the height of the base and wall cabinets.

I am fitting Wickes Kitchen units and came across this:

I have set the high level timbers on this basis. Can someone please confirm that this distance from the top of the unit is correct?
Thanks again.

 

[^woody^]

There is normally a manufacturer's guide with all the modular unit dimensions and heights to set the brackets.

If you have a tall unit/larder/ housing, the top of that is the reference point.

 

[Jupiter01]

If you have a tall unit/larder/ housing, the top of that is the reference point.

No tall units in this kitchen.

 

[JohnD]

I am fitting Wickes Kitchen units and came across this:
View attachment 205553

kitchen hanging rail is very much better than those little brackets. It is very strong; it has enough screw-holes that you never have a problem with a weak bit of wall; and you can hang your cabs in any position that suits you, moving them at whim. Provided the rail is set level, all the cabs will be, with no room for error.

Paint it to match the wall (preferably before fixing) and it will not be noticed.

In your case you can screw it to the studs, and it will not matter if the cabinets do not correspond with the fixing points.

If you are using 900mm wall units, you may as well set them to match any tall units that might be used next time the kitchen is refitted.

 

[^woody^]

No tall units in this kitchen.

Even so, get hold of a guide and it has all the dimensions you need.

For instance