Many thanks again D_H for your post.
I did ask in another thread but got no response - my gut did tell me I need as near to 20C as I can get and will attempt this rebalancing soon.The boiler is designed to have a 20C drop.I have "rebalance rads with a greater drop" on my TODO list...
Yes I did read this blog before I attempted my rebalancing a few months ago, though my understanding from last time of reading was such PCBs were only made/altered in small, pre-production numbers and you had to jump through hoops to have any chance of getting one (and the blog is a few years old now too).The 400 series boilers has caused problems with Micro-firing. A modified PCB is supposed to fix this.
I borrowed your acronym from your post on Mar 09 at 12:19pm! Minimum on Time.MOT?I think this is the MOT in operation - were this scenario to occur all the time I'd suggest the "system" is working as designedThis could be the room stat turning the boiler off
I guess this could be a good thing, though it's certainly annoying they don't mention in the manual of the potential for some of setting values to change themselves!Yes, the boiler could be turning itself back on after five minutes. It's all to do with the anti-cycling time. The manual says that this is 20 mins but, as the link above explains, this is not a fixed time. It varies with required flow temperature.
That's a very helpful reminder - I will do so.Have you made a note of the Status Codes when the various events happen? They would tell tell you what is causing the boiler to go on and off.
The Fault (F) codes may also provide a clue.
Likewise previously - I hope the status and fault codes revert my current thinking!My experience of Honeywell TPI thermostats (3 properties) is that they do what it says on the tin.