Rate of increase in boiler flow temperature

I dont think that the pump is any problem because the boiler max power is now 18 kW.

It always worries me when I see a Magnaclean in series with a system as that also increases the series resistance.

As far as I can see the pipework is probably correct although its not clear enough for me to be sure.

I would only have expected that d25 setting to read "1" when there was an eBus device fittted but I would like someone else's confirmation about that. I am not sure its relevant anyway.

The auto bypass is not going to make any significant difference to your operation.

If a hot water advance is not operating then that to me is a minor malfunction which at the most is an inconvenience. Properly timed you would never touch it.

Siting of the pump should not make any difference on a sealed system and little difference on a well laid out open system. This one does not seem very tidy at all but to analyse how bad it really is would take better photos.

Tony
 
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Since when do bG fit 38 hxis?
Surely its a BG330
BG didn't fit it. A Glow-worm recommended installer did it who didn't know what they were doing.
Gotta love the magnaclean on the primary flow :)
Adey's instructions state "best practice" is on the return after last rad but just before or after pump is"suitable". BG did the pipework you see in the picture.

We did have a Grundfos 'Super Selectric' UPS 15-60 130 pump fitted by the original Glow-worm "muppet" but BG swapped it the other week when they said there was poor circulation.
 
Breakthrough! (Hopefully!).

I was recapping on what the BG engineer had altered when he replaced the pump. He altered the gate valve to the left in the picture above which appears to be a manual 'bypass'. This gate valve is in the pipe having the two zone valves just before it and joins with the return pipe.

I read another post which suggested that a manual 'bypass' should only just about allow flow through when both zone valves are closed so I closed the gate valve which was about a quarter turn open and lowered the room and cylinder stat so both zone valves closed. I then opened the gate valve very slowly until the heat of a flow could be felt the other side of the gate valve.

Since I did this earlier today, no more boiler cycling whether CH/HW or both are calling for heat. House also seems to be heating up more quickly as presumably more flow is going into the CH circuit. Presumably the HW would also be heating more quickly.

If this was the problem, would you suggest an automatic bypass be fitted or would you leave it now it seems to be working again???
 
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If it aint broke....
I know what you mean but BG should have fitted an ABV originally and we must be losing flow back to the boiler that should be going to the CH and/or HW circuit. Presumably there is no flow across an ABV whilst CH and/or HW need heat?
 
Just to complete this topic, I was wrong when I said I thought it was working - it wasn't.

Made a complaint to BG about the original piping not having an ABV and a senior engineer visited. They subsequently replaced what did prove to be a broken CH zone valve as well as replacing the gate valve 'bypass' with an ABV. The CH zone valve internal workings were proved to not be fully working every time despite all checks passing satisfactorily. It fooled the previous 2 BG engineers.

Since then, everything great! Boiler quieter and house warmer! Just need to recover from my OCD regarding the system now which I've suffered from for 2 years since the original muppets installed it!

I'd like to thank everyone who submitted a post, particularly Agile and D_Hailsham.

Keep up the excellent work!

Best regards,
Neil
 

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