Replaced gully - is it acceptable?

[TheSalad]

Hi, I've had a gully replaced to properly fit an aco drain in to it. The drain has been left raised above the paving. Whilst it's doing it's main job in taking rain water and washing machine water away, is it acceptable to leave it like this?

I would have expected it to be at least flush with the paving or indeed below it, to allow any rain water from the paving to go into it.

 

[noseall]

Hi, I've had a gully replaced to properly fit an aco drain in to it. The drain has been left raised above the paving. Whilst it's doing it's main job in taking rain water and washing machine water away, is it acceptable to leave it like this?

I would have expected it to be at least flush with the paving or indeed below it, to allow any rain water from the paving to go into it.
View attachment 365888

It looks like he's used one of these...

If that's the case, then it may be that it's just sitting too tall in relation to the (rigid) connecting pipe in the ground. However, it is possible to shorten the pull-out square insert and lower it. They can be lowered by about 30mm.

 

[ree]

OP,
Its best if the gulley Hopper is level with the ground.
Can you do a pic to left showing the run of the Aco drain?
The Aco drain should be falling from wherever its come from - dropping all the way down to the gulley.
It shouldn't show above ground level - typically, linear drains are level with the ground.

The waste pipe & down pipe should stop about 15mm's directly above the grate - at the moment they are stopping too high & causing splash (the green stuff).
Something else (a roof gutter?) on the left is also causing splash.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

No, it should be inset, below the surrounding levels, into a surrounding frame. The grid, should be removable, to allow cleaning out.

 

[aveatry]

OP,
Its best if the gulley Hopper is level with the ground.
Can you do a pic to left showing the run of the Aco drain?
The Aco drain should be falling from wherever its come from - dropping all the way down to the gulley.
It shouldn't show above ground level - typically, linear drains are level with the ground.

The waste pipe & down pipe should stop about 15mm's directly above the grate - at the moment they are stopping too high & causing splash (the green stuff).
Something else (a roof gutter?) on the left is also causing splash.

Can the OP cut holes in the grid and pass the pipes through it

 

[23vc]

It looks like he's used one of these...
View attachment 365890
If that's the case, then it may be that it's just sitting too tall in relation to the (rigid) connecting pipe in the ground. However, it is possible to shorten the pull-out square insert and lower it. They can be lowered by about 30mm.

My moneys on it already being at its lowest possible point, oops let’s backfill it and hope they don’t notice…

 

[23vc]

I’ve actually made the same mistake in the past on my place when doing the extension and sitting a rainwater gulley a bit higher than the patio ended up. I ended up performing a bit of surgery on it with a multi tool, cut it flush with paving then managed to re-fit the grid which I also had to trim. Not great but not many options if you can’t dig it up

 

[ree]

Poster #5,
That method of going thro the grate is bad practice in my book - esp where a pipe approaches the grate at an angle. Keep it easy & simple for lifting the grate, & cleaning out the trap.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Poster #8 - It is perfectly acceptable to have a pipe discharge blow the grid. It avoids water hitting the grid, and bouncing, plus debris collecting on top of the grid, obstructing it.

 

[ree]

Poster #9,
How much bounce do you reckon will take place in a 15mm drop?
The idea is that the grate keeps debris out of the drainage (or vermin from coming up) & allows removal of the grate for trap cleaning - or do you find it perfectly acceptable to allow debris such as leaves into the drainage system?
Do you cut holes in CI grates to follow your scheme?

 

[aveatry]

Poster #5,
That method of going thro the grate is bad practice in my book - esp where a pipe approaches the grate at an angle. Keep it easy & simple for lifting the grate, & cleaning out the trap.

Yep good point but I wouldn't do it for the drainpipe as it will have moss- grit if concrete tiles ext.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I've put all pipes through the covers including rainwater, after seeing all the water spraying straight across it and spewing all over the place when it rained heavily. The same when the washing machine empties.

It can be done while leaving the cover removable. Anything that could fit into the waste pipe definitely isn't big enough to block the gully.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Definitely lower it if you can though, just as it looks weird and might get broken when someone kicks it. They might not be too pleased either, when they're lying in a heap after tripping.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Get rid of the double 90 degree elbow on the waste pipe while you're at it. Perhaps a 30 degree to aim it at the thing, with a shoe on the end to stop it splashing.

 

[aveatry]

I've put all pipes through the covers including rainwater, after seeing all the water spraying straight across it and spewing all over the place when it rained heavily. The same when the washing machine empties.

It can be done while leaving the cover removable. Anything that could fit into the waste pipe definitely isn't big enough to block the gully.

Mine is slightly different is an older cement built one with the 8x8 grid lower down the hopper section so any splashes are contained within the cement built hopper area, I also fitted a secondary mesh grid at the top to stop levees going down. why dont they make plastic ones like that.