Replacing 70s heating controller.

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I had a Randall 4033 controller on my heating system and as it was a bit primitive I decided to go out and get a new controller that would allow functions like advance and different times at the weekend. I bought a “Sunvic select 207 XL” - it seemed to have the features I wanted. The instructions included how to replace a Randall 4033, and I carefully started the job. I stuck little labels on every wire as a disconnected it from the old controller, and carefully removed the controller from the wall.

Then I had a bit of trouble, I had used gaffer tape to label the wires and a very fancy roller ball pen to write on it. When I came to reconnect the wires to the new controller I found that as I had squeezed the tape onto the wires, the ink was not dry and had come off on my fingers. All my labels were now blank. Well to cut a long story short, I traced every wire in my central heating wiring so that I could find the correct wiring.

Anyway, I looked up loads of stuff about how three port valves should be wired, and mine did not seem to be like any of them. It is and old one, probably mid 70s, made by Drayton and has four wires - black white blue and yellow. This is not the same as the standard modern wiring for a valve. Additionally, the junction box in the airing cupboard has a relay, and analysis of the way this is wired would indicate that the relay is responsible for connecting the live electricity to the boiler when the boiler needs to be on. It would also appear from the wiring that the three way valve has a wire for hot water, a wire for central heating and a wire for both.

Now here is my first problem – I have searched everywhere and been unable to find any information on this valve or the wiring needed to operate it. Before I switch the thing back on I would be happier to have some information to confirm my findings.

Here is my second problem – I traced all the wires including those to the room thermostat. There are four wires on the stat: neutral on terminal 3, “CH ON” from the controller on terminal 4, and on the other two connectors, terminal 1 is connected to 4 when the room is hot, and terminal 2 is connected to 4 when the room is cold. Now there was a wire from the old controller to terminal 1, but I cannot see how is can be connected in the new wiring.

Here is my third problem – I found a black wire connected to the neutral of the pump, and I cannot find the other end of it. It is connected somewhere to the house wiring but does not come through the isolating switch that the rest of the heating wiring comes through. I found out (the hard way) that it floats up to 240V when not connected to neutral. I can think of no good reason for it to be there.

If anyone can actually bother to read all this stuff, I would appreciate some advice.

As an aside, when removing the cover to some wires in the airing cupboard, I dropped a screwdriver, and while fishing around under the hot water tank, I found that the back of my hand had become wet. The hot tank has had a slow leak for ages, and so I have also had to replace that.

And I expected this to be a simple 1/2 hour job.
 
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if you have only muddled up the wires to the new\old programmer assum everything else is fine, work out the correct wiring for the new programmer, then worry abouit the other controls (if it all worked before)

or are you saying that the complete sytem wiring is messed up in the central heating wiring center?

depending on which type of system you have you should be able to id the correct cables for HW off\on CH on CH off etc by doing a test between your thermostats (if you have any) and the loose muddled up wires.

BTW - i'm not sure but you may have a fully diverted 3port valve and not a mid position - in that case wait for some more advice.
 
You have a Drayton Flowshare 5 system with a TA/M4 valve, and either a RB1 or RB2 relay box.
Though I have wiring diagrams for that and the old/new programmers, a complication with the motorised valve is that it can be installed two ways round!
I would imagine the diagrams are on the relevant websites. Hopefully you'll find it now yo know what to look for. I don't have a scanner connected to this pc unfortunately.
 
Yes, it's an RB2 relay box.
If the valve has a neutral on the black wire, CH only on the white wire, HW only on the blue wire and both on the yellow wire, then I have it wired correctly. If none of the possibilities for the valve have those inputs then I will have a problem.
I cannot see any identification on the valve apart from the makers name.

Thanks
 
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Doesn't look right.
Valve wires go through to the relay box.
You don't have a "HW only" from the programmer...

[code:1]Valve...... (connection strip)......RB2
Black ..............................................Neutral
Blue..................4....................A
Yellow................6....................4
White.................8....................5[/code:1]
 
That's the way it is wired.
The other A contact on the relay unit goes to the CH off output on the controller.
When the HW is on, the relay is activated and the CH off state is routed to the blue wire making it live when only the HW is on.
Come to think of it, that is why the wire from the thermostat is there, I need that wire to be live when the CH is off due to the timer or off due to the room thermostat.
 
The other A contact on the relay unit goes to the CH off output on the controller.
Yes. the two A's should NOT be linked together.

Room stat
Common goes to CH on, 2
Satisfied to CH off 3, and
Demand to RB2 terminal 3, 10.

Cyl stat
Common to RB2 term B (the two B's are connected internally), 5
Demand to RB2 term 2 , 7

Italic numbers are the terminals on the connection block shown on the wiring diag - yours may be different.
 
OK, I think everything will be OK now.

The only remaining issue is the other wire to the pump, and I'm gogin to leave that dissconnected. It has been dissconnected for the past few days while I sorted through the wires, and nothing amiss has happened. It does not go through the mains isolator for the system, so I think it could be dangerous to leave it on. I just dissapears through the wall towards the fuse box.

Thanks for your help. :D

Peter.
 

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