replacing a Randall 4033 with a sunvic 207
- Thread starter teacherguy
- Start date
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don't know. took ages to find out it was gravity hw pumped htg
I have a Potternton statesman utility.
So my heating and hot water works perfectly with no connection to CH off but a connection to HW off and the OP's system works fine with a connection to CH off but no connection to DHW off.
I can replace my controller and not need a connection in CH off according to Danfoss and Honeywell. Isn't it likely that the OP will be able to do the same without a connection to DHW off?
What damage might occur by replicating the same set up with the new controller?
I am speculating here and i don't profess to have professional knowledge.
I can replace my controller and not need a connection in CH off according to Danfoss and Honeywell. Isn't it likely that the OP will be able to do the same without a connection to DHW off?
What damage might occur by replicating the same set up with the new controller?
I am speculating here and i don't profess to have professional knowledge.
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your running a fully pumped system.
and with a dhw off wire sounds like a y plan system.
he has got a gravity hw and pumped heating.
with a zone valve on the heating plus a htg off live feeding the white wire of the zone valve and what occures to be the room state wired into that as well.
which can't make head or tail of that situation.
and with a dhw off wire sounds like a y plan system.
he has got a gravity hw and pumped heating.
with a zone valve on the heating plus a htg off live feeding the white wire of the zone valve and what occures to be the room state wired into that as well.
which can't make head or tail of that situation.
It's an oil fired boiler! Pity you didn't tell us this at the beginning.
You say the pipe from the pump goes up into the roof. What does it connect to?
Which way is the pump pumping? There is an arrow on the side of the pump.
Which model motorized valve do you have? The standard zone valve does not have a white wire, just brown, blue, grey and orange.
I know it is fully pumped, but it seems, from what I can make out, that you have a variation on the C Plan, but with the valve in the heating circuit instead of the hot-water. Just a thought.
The MI's say that a bypass and pump overrun may sometimes be required. This could be the reason for no valve in the HW circuit.A photo of the inside of the main junction box, with a list showing what each wire connects to, would be very helpful.
No! has fully pumped.
teacherguy said:
In other words:
[code:1]
HW cylinder
|
|
manifold ------ motorised valve------pump---into roof[/code:1]
my mistake fully pumped it took so long getting that far then the wiring order was changed so many times began to loose track of what was going on.
thats why i said he best go and do a diagram of the wiring etc first.
Sorry i am causing so much trouble!!
The pump is drawing water down from the pipe coming from the roof, think from the boiler. The pump is therefore before the cylinder, so when hot water is on it pumps into the cylinder. When the heating is on the vavle opens and allows hot water into the heating circuit (see diagrams above to make sense of this).
The motorised valve is a SATCHWELL.
I am sure that:
1) when my heating is on, the valve opens allowing hot water into heating circuit. and my hot water is also heating. When room stat reaches correct temp the boiler stops firing and the valve closes.
2) When DHW is on but HTG is off the valve stays closed and the cylinder stat will stop the water heating when it is up to temp.
I will try to get photo and wiring lables of my junction box in more detail as soon as i get long enough to carry out that task. Sorry for any delay and yet again sorry for any frustrations!
The pump is drawing water down from the pipe coming from the roof, think from the boiler. The pump is therefore before the cylinder, so when hot water is on it pumps into the cylinder. When the heating is on the vavle opens and allows hot water into the heating circuit (see diagrams above to make sense of this).
The motorised valve is a SATCHWELL.
I am sure that:
1) when my heating is on, the valve opens allowing hot water into heating circuit. and my hot water is also heating. When room stat reaches correct temp the boiler stops firing and the valve closes.
2) When DHW is on but HTG is off the valve stays closed and the cylinder stat will stop the water heating when it is up to temp.
I will try to get photo and wiring lables of my junction box in more detail as soon as i get long enough to carry out that task. Sorry for any delay and yet again sorry for any frustrations!
The boiler is in the roof????? Don't think; find out!
That's old then. How many wires are there in the cable attached to the valve - please give colours.
PS This is beginning to turn into an exercise in finding out how your rather unusual system is cobbled together, rather than solving your original problem. If you just want to get the Sunvic wired in and working, here's how to do it:
Randall 1 to Sunvic N/A (no wire connected on the Sunvic)
Randall 2 to Sunvic 4
Randall 3 to Sunvic 2
Randall 4 to Sunvic 3
Randall 5 (no wire connected)
Randall 6 to Sunvic L
Randall 6 to Sunvic N
The earth wire is not required on the Sunvic and should be made safe.
The link between Randall 6 and 1 can be discarded as the equivalent terminals are linked internally on the Sunvic.
The switch on the back of the Sunvic should be set to G.
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